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"Jeff Fullerton" <tcmajorr at westol_com>: Re: NANFA-- Pond Liners



From: "Jeff Fullerton" <tcmajorr at westol_com>
To: <nanfa at aquaria_net>
Subject: Re: NANFA-- Pond Liners
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:21:58 -0400
Message-ID: <199804081626.MAA20621 at oak_westol.com>

Mark Binkley - Lee Harper
& other potential pond enthusiasts.

I think EDPM is the way to go now. My first liner installed in 1984 was 6
mil polyethlene from the local feed store. Poly can be a good cheep
starter
liner and will last if not exposed to sunlight. Solar UV breaks it down ,
but it will last forever (well almost if you cover it with water or
earth.
That incidentally is the problem with plastics from an environmental
viewpoint. They wont biodegrade in a landfill.

So to reduce wear & tear on a pond liner it is best to cover any portions
exposed above the water line with something - either a gravel beach ,
cobbles , stone pavers or a "bog" edging which is essentially a pocket of
peaty muck covered with a sod of sedges , moss and low growing waterside
plants. I used a combination of bog edgings gravel and cobble lined
shores
to make a pleasing combination of a natural pondscape with a slight
"human
touch".

Of course there is a problem with poly. When punctured it is difficult to
impossible to repair. That's why in 1987 I moved on to a 20 Mil PVC. It
lasted about 10 years before becomming brittle above the water line. PVC
is
the material that swimming pools are made of. It is alot more durable
than
PVC and can be easily patched with a peice of spare liner and a solvent
that will bond the patch. The liners sold for water garden application
are
fish safe as opposed to conventional pool liners that have algicides and
other chemicals harmful to pond life. The garden variety liners are also
black or grey as opposed to blue and blend in better with a natural
setting.

My current pond liner is 45 mil EDPM - a synthetic rubber type material.
Since in recent years it has become much more affordable it is the
perferable alternative to all the other liners. It is durable and like
PVC
it will accept a patch. In fact there is a patch kit sold which is very
easy to use. A type of tape with peel away backing - just  cut off a
peice
peel and place over the puncture sticky side down. Of course  the surface
must be dried off and cleaned before repair.

A few important notes regarding EDPM 
1) it is very heavy and even a small piece say 15 X 20 ft is a tough job
for one guy. For a really big job - say one requiring a 25 X 50 ft liner
you really want to have it delivered as close to the site as possible !

2) Talc is used to keep EDPM liners from sticking together when rolled or
folded for shipment. This is talcum powder which may be great for
soothing
a sore fanny but not good for pond life. Some bad experiences involving
fish kills in newly established ponds can be attributed to talc particles
which may clog the gills or poison the fish. Upon deployment , a new EDPM
liner must be scrubbed down with a soft bristled brush and use a hose to
flush the talc down to the center of the pond where it can be pumped out.
Then it might be a good idea to fill the pond and wait a while before
introducing fish.

3) New Pond Syndrome - the same rules apply to ponds that also apply to
tanks - New ponds are less capable of sustaining heavy bioloads than
older
pond in which has a more active and diverse microbiotic community ,
established aquatic plants , insect and crustacean populations (the
latter
are especially important for obligate carnivores like Enneacanthus
Sunfishes , darters & mud minnows). 

This process can be helped along by seeding the pond with water from
another established pond and a little muck or gravel too. Or starter
cultures of daphinea , scuds , isopods and such can be introduced a month
or so before the fish. With a new pond it is best to go slow - when
stocking natives - start with a few common species like Golden Shiners or
Fatheads and gradually add more specialized fish as the pond matures.
That's how natural ponds work.

Algae blooms are common in new ponds. But dont sucumb to the impulse to
change the water. It will only prolong the eyesore. Actually alage is a
necessary element of the pond ecosystem and in time the excess population
will crash and a new balance will be struck - usually in a matter of
weeks.
Algae blooms sometimes will occur in established pond in the early
spring.
They will also abate once the pond plants which compete for nutrients
start
into active growth. A biofilter will also clear it up in a hurry. This is
essentially a tub of gravel , lava rock , plastic brushes or bio balls
through which water is circulated. 

Warning - If algae blooms persist through the season - that is a sign
that
the pond is overloaded with fish and other animal life. Additional
filtration capacity can be added and it will in most cases correct the
problem - say in the case of a heavily stocked koi pond - but to much
reliance on hight tech solutions - especially those that require
continuous
input of electricity can leave you in a lurch when the system fails -
power
outages do happen. 

Most native fish ponds can be low or mid tech systems - especially those
with small species adapted to warm , slow moving or stagnant waters.  

Good Day all.
Lovely spring weather - April showers and all !

Jeff from PA
  

----------
> From: Mark Binkley <mbinkley at earthling_net>
> To: nanfa at aquaria_net
> Subject: NANFA-- Pond Liners
> Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 7:21 AM
> 
> Hi jeff,
> 
> What is EDPM?  I am looking for a cheap pond liner material that will
hold up.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mark Binkley
> Columbus Ohio USA          <))><
> mbinkley at earthling_net
> 
> Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach him
> to use "the Net" and he won't bother you for weeks.
> 
> 
>
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--------- End forwarded message ----------

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