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RE: [APD] RE: increased light levels = more dosing.

> In one of my previous posts I mentioned that I was getting this spot algae
> and you suggested that I could stop dosing K2S04 , at least that was the
> I recalled it .

Well it was not for reduction of spot algae, it might have been you simply
did not need extra K+, since you are getting enough form the KNO3.
That's likely where any confusion on either of our parts occured.

>Originally I stopped dosing P04 instead and the problem
> persisted so I did a follow up post and you straightened me out on the
> that you had never suggested to stop dosing P04. After I stopped adding
> K2S04 the spot algae that was a devil to scrub off stopped. 

It was not that long ago that people suggested there was never going to be
a method to get rid of that hard spot algae(only 5 years or less ago), yet
today it is possible to reduce or eliminate it routinely.

What is going on
> now is somewhat frustrating and I was certainly worried when I added the
> extra lights that I was going to have some trouble.

Yes, often that is the case.
More light is not better.

 I notice tonight lots of
> hair type algae on the edges of the plants like crypts, val's etc. This
> stuff easily rubs off so I guess that is the good news. As far as CO2
goes I
> thought I was right in the ball park. The last time I checked I was
> in about 60 bubbles per minute and with my Ph at 6.6 and KH at 80 PPM I
> should be in the 30 PPM area which was where you suggested I should be.

That sounds about right, a tad more than 30ppm CO2.
Thing is, this can vary some throughout the day and sometimes will vary a
little here and there over time. Sometimes you notice it anc adjust it back
and that can correct things easily. I suggest that folks rigorously analyze
their CO2 over the course of a day lighting cycle, if it drops below 20ppm
or comes close at any time when the lights are on, add more CO2. DIY folks
need to do this for an entire brew cycle (week to 2 weeks etc).

> can certainly try adding the K2S04 back in and see how it goes. I was
> worried that I was giving it too much nutrients which was contributing to
> the green water and increased green algae on the glass.

Not the K+, if you plan on backing off, this will effect plant growth and
reduce NH4 uptake.
GW can live on next to nothing, you will not beat it by limiting K+, PO4
etc once you have it.

Soft film glass algae is often something called Akistidesmus, these are
zoospore swarmers, you scape them off, and they reattach a few
minutes/hours later.
These need removed immediately after wiping the glass and let them settle
out to the bottom, vacuum them up etc.

Like treatments for GW, Diatom filtration/UV's work well.
After the tank stabilizes some, the green dust often will go away. I've
tried to culture it for long peroids but without success.    

 I can pretty much
> clean algae off the glass twice a day. I'm willing to try any dosing
> and amounts. Do you feel I should go back and start over with the original
> recommendation , up something or?.

I thibnk you may want to try cleaning it off with the filter off, no
current, siphon off any remaining mulm etc right after and run a micron
filter/diatom, Hagen Quick filter, UV etc, and scrub once/twice more about
1-4 hours later to get the rest that reattached off. 
The other thing that can beat this back, blackout. 3-4 days will put some
hurt on this algae. 

The other thing is to shut off the lights near the front of the glass or
pull them back away from the glass.

> I appreciate the assistance. BTW I do
> have what may be considered a good fish load in the tank with a Pleco
> 6", 4 Clown loaches 2" to 4", 2 good size Angel fish and 3 good size
> Rainbows. Perhaps phosphate is playing a role in this.
> Rick

You can try adding less, PO4 is present and will not limit your algae with
this much fish but I do not think your still getting that much from the
fish load, main things there: NO3 and NH4.
PO4 can be sky high and no algae. Add NH4 and you will get algae though at
high light everytime. NH4 comes from fish/critter waste or jobes
sticks/household plant fertilizers etc.
These are the dominate players in aquariums and algae presence. CO2
variation as well.
GW loves CO2 also like plants, going non CO2 and using less light has
worked in the past on a couple of tanks I tried. 
The NH4 might have caused the GW outbreak when/before you added the lights.

I would change the KNO3 to 1/2 teaspoon 3x a week otherwise the same as
Clean the algae as best you can and see if the above methods work first
before going to the blackout for 3-4 days.
If you do treatments together, do the scrub/clean=> vacuum=> water change=>
Add Hagen quick filter/Diatom/UV etc=> Scrub glass once more=> Blackout for
3 days. Not many algae can handle that whipping. Readjust your tank, get
enough CO2, clean the filters, add more biomedia perhaps etc, add
nutrients, do water changes, vacuum and trim off any gunk, dose etc.
Tom Barr

> Good CO2(30ppm)
> I add 3/4 teaspoon 3x a week
> 1/8thKH2PO4 3x a week
> 15-20mls Flourish 3-4x a week

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