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Re: Needle valves

Dennis and Ken previously wrote (in part):

> Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 10:34:03 EST
> From: Dennis8425 at aol_com
> Subject: more on needle valves
> (snip) I'd love to bring my regulator up to 10 si where it seems much more stable
> than the 3 psi I'm at now.  From the regulator I'd like to have the valve
> adjust
> my CO2 to 1 1/8 bubble per second coming out of an open air line into the
> intake of my canister filter.  Any help with my flow requirements would be
> appreciated.
> Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 11:21:38 EST
> From: FISH2R at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Needle Valves
> (snip) The problem I am having with these valves is that they do not turn all the way
> off. One of them will turn far enough down to be acceptable,   The other will not get
> that far down and I am having tobleed off the excess CO2 in order not to overdose the
> tank.   This is a problem since I am wasting CO2 and I can't seem to get it adjusted
> very well.


A little ways back when I made the move to a pressurized CO2 setup, I purchased the
Nupro-S metering valve.  I had the same problem of not being able to shut it down
completely and struggled with low regulator output pressures and hence, an unstable flow

I received the following note from Steve Dixon:

"There is a set screw on the Nupro (on the twist knob, I think) that is
preset at the factory to stop the valve before it completely shuts off the gas.  I think
idea is that this protects the valve against damage from overtightening on shut
off, while leaving all but the hapless aquarist with enough control over the flow rate.
To solve the problem loosen this set screw with a small hex wrench and raise the twist
a little bit higher on the valve stem to allow for shut off of gas."

I immediately made the adjustment and everthing has been working perfectly.  The
regulator output is about 15# and I get a consistent bubble every 2 seconds.

The "S" is the smallest orifice metering valve.  There is also an "M" and an "L".  The
"S" cost me about $46.00 for the Brass 1/8" size but also required that I get adapters
to change from the tube ends of the valve to a hose barb on the output side and a female
end on the input side (to attach directly to the regulator output).  Another couple of
dollars.  If I recall correctly, the 1/4" size valve would not require such special

The valve is very nice.  Once I set it, I haven't had a need to change it.  Next time I
might try the "M" series valve.  The orifice is not as small, the settings are not as
fine and it is cheaper ($35?).  It just doesn't appear that I need the micro control I
thought I did.  (YMMV)

I hope this helps.

Brewster, N.Y.  (where Spring fever is distracting me from work)