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[APD] Tank setup revisited
Ok Since I am a newbie and I based all my selections on web research.
Which doesn't seem to be working based on several opinions I have gotten
on my choices. How caan I make choice based on LFS selections, combined
with water parameters and still have a planted tank.
What are good sources, preferably web that I can use to make some good
decisions?
With that what is the reasonable tolerance range of ph for fish?
Thanks,
romans837
-----Original Message-----
From: aquatic-plants-bounces+romans837=copper_net at actwin.com
[mailto:aquatic-plants-bounces+romans837=copper_net at actwin.com] On
Behalf Of aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 2:23 PM
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Subject: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 28
Send Aquatic-Plants mailing list submissions to
aquatic-plants at actwin_com
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
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Today's Topics:
1. RE: Tank setup help (Rick Engstrom)
2. Re: AquGoldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
(AuntieFran at comcast_net)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:42:41 -0600
From: "Rick Engstrom" <rick703 at mts_net>
Subject: RE: [APD] Tank setup help
To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
-----Original Message-----
From: aquatic-plants-bounces+rick703=mts_net at actwin.com
[mailto:aquatic-plants-bounces+rick703=mts_net at actwin.com]On Behalf Of
Jason
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:14 PM
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Subject: [APD] Tank setup help
Here is my plan for my tank:
Here are the specs
55 gal
36 x 18 x 22
gH is 9
Ph is 8.8+ ( straight tap I could go ro water )
Java fern, anubias, and hydro. Currently would like to get a Amazon
Sword once a little more established.
Fish I like:
Clown Loaches
Blue Gouramis
Honey Gouramis
Blue Botias
Black Ruby Barb
Betta
Yellow Lab
Sailfin Mollies
I am leaning towards clown loaches, honey gouramis, black ruby barb, the
betta.
I really like the Yellow Labs but, I am hearing these may not be good on
plants.
Help I can't figure out if this is a good mix or a bad one.
Thanks,
your tap water is more suited to the fishes of Lake Tanganyika, even the
L. caeruleus (yellow lab) is a mbuna from Lake Malawi where the natural
waters have a PH range of 7.8-8.0. In particular the Black Ruby Barb do
much better in acidic water. Having said that it is likely that these
fish are available locally for you and are kept in the same water
conditions as you have so although they may live in your water they may
not prosper. If you have a R/O system you may want to look at reducing
your PH using R/O or peat filtered water although it is always much
easier to pick fish suited to your present water .
Rick
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 20:17:04 +0000
From: AuntieFran at comcast_net
Subject: [APD] Re: AquGoldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
But Scott, they're so cute with their little bellies all filled up. LOL
--
Growing old is inevitable;
growing up is optional.
> Send Aquatic-Plants mailing list submissions to
> aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> aquatic-plants-owner at actwin_com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Aquatic-Plants digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
(AuntieFran at comcast_net)
> 2. Re: Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco) (S. Hieber)
> 3. Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? (David Grim)
> 4. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> (BAshcraft at BrashearLP_com)
> 5. Re: Drilling for bulkheads (was bubbles) (Rod Gerrymander)
> 6. Re: Tank setup help (home66run)
> 7. Re: Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> (revance at indiana_edu)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 17:46:39 +0000
> From: AuntieFran at comcast_net
> Subject: [APD] Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> I have two yoyo loaches that are moved regularly to any tank with
> those nasty
> pond snails. I leave them there for a few days after there are no
visible
> snails (to get any newly hatched buggers) and voila! snail free tanks
(until I
> carry more in on new plants.
>
> --
> Growing old is inevitable;
> growing up is optional.
> > Send Aquatic-Plants mailing list submissions to
> > aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > aquatic-plants-owner at actwin_com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Aquatic-Plants digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Constant white haze (David Terrell)
> > 2. How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? (Rod Gerrymander)
> > 3. Re: Re: ich update (S. Hieber)
> > 4. Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> > 5. Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? -- or - Like some
> > folks it's not that bubbles show up but that they won't go
away
> > (S. Hieber)
> > 6. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19 (Nwwise01 at aol_com)
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------
> > --
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 09:28:49 -0500 (EST)
> > From: "David Terrell" <Dave at TerrellClan_com>
> > Subject: [APD] Constant white haze
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> >
> >
> > Ok guys, it's been a few weeks now, and even though I still can't
> > seem to get my CO2 levels up to where I'd like them, the PMDD Barr's
> > style seems to really be working well.
> >
> > However, even after my plants got a foothold and the tank cleared
> > way up (~90% clear) it only got so far before stopping. Now I
> > constantly have a white haze in the tank, slight but noticable. I
> > used my vortex last night after getting my pump back and went to bed
> > with crystal clear water. Now I don't necessarily expect the tank
> > to stay that clear, but I wouldn't think it's beyond reach since I
> > have seen it that way in the past, long before I owned a vortex.
> >
> > Suggestions?
> > Thanks
> > -Dave T.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> >
> > A couple of days ago I setup my dream system. It uses
> > two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120 gallon planted
> > tank.
> >
> > Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120
> > gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had
> > problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> > from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> > tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> > a day.
> >
> > >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> > also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great people to
> > work with), lights on 12 hours a day, opposite schedule from the
> > main tank. This tank is heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
> >
> > Finally it flows back into main tank. This is lit
> > by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> > Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these
> > flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
> >
> > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these tanks 24
> > hours a day somewhere and the siphons are getting bubbles in them
> > which tend to collect at the highest point, with disatrous
> > consequences if left untreated. I need a system that can go without
> > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > going to make it.
> >
> > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > them
> > and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these bubbles are,
> > but they may even be rising spontaneously inside the tubing.
> >
> > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > siphons flowing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:57:40 -0800 (PST)
> > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: Re: [APD] Re: ich update
> > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >
> > Reports seem to vary as to the size of the Ich critter (anywhere
> > from 10 microns to 100 microns and more). I think that, to get down
> > to as fine a micron level as you need to filter out the
> > waterborne-stage ich critters (a.k.a.
> > tomites) a canister would clog up much sooner than a couple of weeks
> > -- maybe before the day is over; maybe in a couple of days. And as
> > it clogs, it won't be turning over much aquarum water. And if the
> > filter doesn't turn over "all" the water often enough, some Ichies
> > will always escape filtration. So you would need to change the
> > material often.
> >
> > The Ichies (a.k.a trophozoites) will mature, leave the fish and
> > settle in substrate (a.k.a. trophonts) and then produdce producing
> > tomites until each one has gone through a full life cycle, which can
> > be a couple of days to over a week, depending on temps. Three days
> > to a week should be plenty long enough at tropical temps to filter
> > out the trophs and break the life cycle. But I think a conventional
> > canister filter, with a felt medium, is probably your least
> > practical method of breaking the cycle.
> >
> > Scott H.
> >
> > --- "Byron J. Yu" <Byronjyu at hotmail_com> wrote:
> > > Fundamentalist-type condemnations aside, I was thinking.. I
> > > remember coralife makes these micron filter pads. Do you think it
> > > would be
> > > possible to stuff those in my eheim canister for a couple
> > > of weeks and
> > > filter the ick out?
> >
> >
> > =====
> > S. Hieber
> >
> > - - - - - - - -
> > Amano Returns
> > to the AGA Annual Convention
> > Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:24:59 -0800 (PST)
> > From: xicotenco <xicotenco at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: [APD] Goldfish as snail control
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> >
> > Another great way to eradicate snail is by clown
> > loaches. I don't know if the rest of the loaches
> > family have develop test for snail to, my experience
> > is that no matter how hard is your snails infestation
> > 4 or 5 of them will take care of your snails prblem
> > and they will not touch your plants.
> >
> > Saludos
> > Mario
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:39:01 -0800 (PST)
> > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: Re: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? -- or - Like
> > some folks it's not that bubbles show up but that they
won't go
> > away
> > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >
> > Couple of thoughts:
> >
> > A higher water flow will suck the bubbles out of the siphon
> > tube.
> >
> > You might be able to use a TOM's/Oscar Water Lifter pump to
> > suck the bubbles out of they accumulate enough stop the
> > siphon. This pump can work with air or water and is used,
> > e.g., on CPR overflows to prevent siphon loss -- in fact,
> > CPR recommends them.
> >
> > Scott H.
> > --- Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com> wrote:
> > > A couple of days ago I setup my dream system. It uses
> > > two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> > > gallon planted tank.
> > >
> > > Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120
> > > gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had
> > > problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> > > from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> > > tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> > > a day.
> > >
> > > >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> > > also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> > > people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day,
> > > opposite schedule from the main tank. This tank is
> > > heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
> > >
> > > Finally it flows back into main tank. This is lit
> > > by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> > > Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these
> > > flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
> > >
> > > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > > untreated. I need a system that can go without
> > > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > > going to make it.
> > >
> > > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > > them
> > > and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> > > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > > inside the tubing.
> > >
> > > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > > siphons flowing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rod
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > > http://search.yahoo.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
> >
> > =====
> > S. Hieber
> >
> > - - - - - - - -
> > Amano Returns
> > to the AGA Annual Convention
> > Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 11:42:23 -0500
> > From: Nwwise01 at aol_com
> > Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> >
> > In a message dated 3/7/2004 9:03:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com writes:
> >
> > > Message: 7
> > > Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 16:08:47 -0800 (PST)
> > > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > > Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Peat in substrate -- Dirtless gravel
> > > that's
> > > replete without Peat
> > > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> > >
> > > I assume yo mena in the conventional sense and not for
> > > investment. ;-)
> > >
> > > Mulm is known by the less technical terms "gunk," "crud on
> > > the bottom," and "messy brown stuff (aka, MBS)."
> > >
> > > With an established aqaurium, you can get it from the
> > > floss/floss substitue medium in the canister filteraned
> > > from the sponge in any filter that uses a sponge. You can
> > > siphon it from the gravel. The accumulation of MBS is the
> > > reason one needs to vacuum occasionally; it is the essence
> > > of vacuuming's purpose.
> > >
> > > If you vacuum with a python down the kitchen drain. Try
> > > running the hose into a bucket instead.
> > >
> > > If you don't want to use all the water from vacuuming, let
> > > the water sit a little while and the bulk of the material
> > > will sink to the bottom. Then you can pour off most of the
> > > water without loosing are that hard earn MBS.
> >
> > As a related side note:
> >
> > If you have any house plants, use this water to water them. It's
better than
> > Miracle Gro. I also use it to feed my compost bins.
> >
> > Nick Wise
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
> >
> > End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> > *********************************************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:03:50 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> You can soak new plants in lime water and save your yoyos
> all that back and forth -- yoyos are supposed to go up and
> down. ;-)
>
> Scott H.
> --- AuntieFran at comcast_net wrote:
> > I have two yoyo loaches that are moved regularly to any
> > tank with those nasty pond snails. . . voila! snail free
> tanks
> > (until I carry more in on new plants.
>
>
> =====
> S. Hieber
>
> - - - - - - - -
> Amano Returns
> to the AGA Annual Convention
> Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:58:55 -0500
> From: "David Grim" <grim1214 at bellsouth_net>
> Subject: [APD] Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> To: "Aquatic Plants Mailing List" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Rod wrote:
> (snip)
> A couple of days ago I setup my dream system. It uses
> two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> gallon planted tank.
>
> Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120
> gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had
> problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> a day.
>
> >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day,
> opposite schedule from the main tank. This tank is
> heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
>
> Finally it flows back into main tank. This is lit
> by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these
> flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
>
> My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> untreated. I need a system that can go without
> maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> going to make it.
>
> I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> them
> and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> inside the tubing.
>
> Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> siphons flowing?
>
> Thanks,
> Rod
> (snip)
>
> Rod,
> That sounds like quite a setup, a lot like a reef algae filter with
the 20
> gallon tanks on opposite light schedules .
>
> You could do as Scott H. suggested and increase the flow rate thru the
> siphon tubes. I will assume you have the clear plastic "U" types. A
high
> enough flow rate will clear the siphon tubes of any bubbles.
>
> Another method reefers use is to plumb a check valve in at the very
top of
> the siphon tube using silicone or acrylic cement, so the valve is
sticking
> straight up from the bend, with the flow direction exiting the check
valve
> from the tube. You then use a small (Rio 600 possible) powerhead
placed in
> each of the 20s that has an air atttachment and connect the check
valve to
> the powerhead. The powerhead draws the accumulated air bubbles and a
bit of
> water thru the check valve continuously and keeps it clear. If you can
find
> a powerhead with adjustable flow in addition to an airline attachment
point
> all the better. It wouldn't take much pull to keep it clear. You might
be
> able to do both siphon tubes with one powerhead if you controlled and
> balanced the suction with a 2 way gang valve.
>
> Regards,
> Dave
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:13:22 -0500
> From: BAshcraft at BrashearLP_com
> Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> >
> > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > untreated. I need a system that can go without
> > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > going to make it.
> >
> > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > them
> > and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > inside the tubing.
> >
> > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > siphons flowing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
>
> The only way to make siphons foolproof is to remove them.
>
> It's actually quite easy to drill the tanks and install bulkheads for
> overflows. I did it for the first time a few months ago, and have
done
> several other tanks since then.
>
> But, even bulkheads aren't 100% foolproof, especially in a planted
tank
> since leaves can clog them, but they're about 1000% better than
siphons.
>
> Bob AshcraftFrom romans837 at copper_net Tue Mar 9 14:14:20 2004
> Received: from nocmailsvc002.allthesites.org (host202.cisp.cc
[65.196.203.202])
> by otter.actwin.com (8.12.10/8.12.1) with ESMTP id
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> for <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>; Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:14:20 -0500
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> <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>; Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:14:11 +0000
> From: "Jason" <romans837 at copper_net>
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:13:51 -0600
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> Here is my plan for my tank:
>
> Here are the specs
>
> 55 gal
> 36 x 18 x 22
> gH is 9
> Ph is 8.8+ ( straight tap I could go ro water )
>
> Java fern, anubias, and hydro. Currently would like to get a Amazon
> Sword once a little more established.
>
> Fish I like:
>
> Clown Loaches
> Blue Gouramis
> Honey Gouramis
> Blue Botias
> Black Ruby Barb
> Betta
> Yellow Lab
> Sailfin Mollies
>
> I am leaning towards clown loaches, honey gouramis, black ruby barb,
the
> betta.
>
> I really like the Yellow Labs but, I am hearing these may not be good
on
> plants.
>
> Help I can't figure out if this is a good mix or a bad one.
>
> Thanks,
>
> romans837
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 11:35:42 -0800 (PST)
> From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Drilling for bulkheads (was bubbles)
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I have drilled small holes in glass before using the
> spade-type bits and a drill press, but the bulkheads
> would require a hole in the glass that is about 1.5
> inches. I don't even know where to get such a bit
> (advice appreciated).
>
> Plus I would have to drill these tanks (at least the
> main tank) while it is setup, meaning holding the
> drill
> in my hand instead of a drill press, and the glass is
> under pressure from 100 gallons of water. This seems
> just a little too freaky.
>
> Thanks,
> Rod
>
> >
> > The only way to make siphons foolproof is to remove
> > them.
> >
> > It's actually quite easy to drill the tanks and
> > install bulkheads for
> > overflows. I did it for the first time a few months
> > ago, and have done
> > several other tanks since then.
> >
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:39:52 -0600
> From: "home66run" <home66run at neb_rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Tank setup help
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I would think that a barb and a betta in the same tank would be a bad
idea.
>
> Thank you,
> Marshall
>
> American Killie Association #08791
> Aquatic Gardeners Association
> International Betta Congress
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jason" <romans837 at copper_net>
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:13 PM
> Subject: [APD] Tank setup help
>
>
> > Here is my plan for my tank:
> >
> > Here are the specs
> >
> > 55 gal
> > 36 x 18 x 22
> > gH is 9
> > Ph is 8.8+ ( straight tap I could go ro water )
> >
> > Java fern, anubias, and hydro. Currently would like to get a Amazon
> > Sword once a little more established.
> >
> > Fish I like:
> >
> > Clown Loaches
> > Blue Gouramis
> > Honey Gouramis
> > Blue Botias
> > Black Ruby Barb
> > Betta
> > Yellow Lab
> > Sailfin Mollies
> >
> > I am leaning towards clown loaches, honey gouramis, black ruby barb,
the
> > betta.
> >
> > I really like the Yellow Labs but, I am hearing these may not be
good on
> > plants.
> >
> > Help I can't figure out if this is a good mix or a bad one.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > romans837
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:41:40 -0500
> From: revance at indiana_edu
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Adding a bulkhead works fine if you have an acrylic tank, those who
have glass
> aquariums... particularly tempered glass tanks, cannot (or rather
SHOULD not)
> drill holes. Drilling in glass is a big gamble. Yes it might look
fine, but
> the drilling process causes tiny fractures in the glass (probably not
> visible). It left undisturbed, it might last beyond your lifetime, it
might
> last 10 years, it might last a month. IMHO I don't think it's worth
the
> risk... 120 gallons of water is a LOT of water, especially when on
your floor.
> If you figure MOST peoples sumps only hold a few gallons of water in
them, the
> worst thing that can happen if your siphon fails is those few gallons
will
> overflow onto the floor and you will probably burn up a pump. Yes a
few
> gallons is still terrible, but if the integrity of your tank fails,
you end up
> with much more water and you lose everything, not just a pump.
>
>
> Quoting BAshcraft at BrashearLP_com:
>
> > > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> > > From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> > > Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> > >
> > > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > > untreated. I need a system that can go without
> > > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > > going to make it.
> > >
> > > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > > them
> > > and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> > > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > > inside the tubing.
> > >
> > > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > > siphons flowing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rod
> >
> > The only way to make siphons foolproof is to remove them.
> >
> > It's actually quite easy to drill the tanks and install bulkheads
for
> > overflows. I did it for the first time a few months ago, and have
done
> > several other tanks since then.
> >
> > But, even bulkheads aren't 100% foolproof, especially in a planted
tank
> > since leaves can clog them, but they're about 1000% better than
siphons.
> >
> > Bob Ashcraft
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 27
> *********************************************
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