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Re: In defense of Watts-per-gallon -- or Fussing with Fusion

Robert H said, in part:

> Heat build up is much more of a problem than I thought it
> was. I discovered
> both bulbs in the Brightlight fixture had become fused
> into the socket. The
> bulbs broke from the socket immediately and the socket
> had to be pried out
> with a pair of pliers. Then I discovered the same problem
> with my AH Supply
> lights on my 100 gallon tank. Each bulb there had become
> fused into its
> holder as well. 

The kind of heat that a fluorescent bulb generates isn't
likely to cause fusion of any plastics, metal or glass -- a
55 watt PC gives off much less than 55 watts of heat.  Even
if the plastic melted, the metal end of the bulb and the
glass aren't likely to melt.  conceivably, electrical
aricing between a bulb pin and the socket contact could
weld the two together, but the more likely thing is that
the electrode would erode.

Many plastics will "dry" and deform when exposed to low
heat levels for a prolonged period, but I haven't seen this
with the rubber sockets from AH Supply and certainly not
with hard plastic sockets.

What I have found is that the pins can become caught on the
contacts in the newer style rubber socket from AH Supply --
haven't fluorescents always been more of a pain to install
and remove than incandescents?  This happened on one of my
sockets -- pulled a pin right off the bulb.  Luckily the
wire was still there so I just soldered the pin back onto
the bulb.

So, I don't like the newer rubber sockets from AH Supply
for the 55 watt PCs.  The older version, the hard white
plactic ones snapped on and off without problems.  If I
have both on hand when I install a light kit, I'll cut off
the rubber sockets and use the wire with the hard plastic
sockets.  For my next light kit order, I'll ask for the
hard plastic sockets.

BTW, it's good to hear some good things about JBJ lights
for a change ;-)

Scott H.

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