E. horemanni flowers, Anubias and Big Eheim filters

Subject: E. horemanni flowers

> but yesterday I noticed that a (I think) Echino
> horemannii is now flowering and I would like to hear opinions on
> should do (besides taking some pictures and enjoying it).

>The plant is ~ 15" tall,

I wonder if it really is Horemani.  In my experience, Horemani 
quickly smother even a 24" deep tank in leaves.  I've measured the 
_leaves_ at over 40".  Could it be a 'Rubin'?  This is similar in 
looks to a red Horemani, but stays considerably shorter... Mine 
topped out at about 20" and has not grown taller in the two years 

> and sin
> about to go away for work until the end of this week, I would li
> the following:
> 1) do these flower stalks grow very quickly? If I remember well 
> past an A. madagascarensis which shortly after purchase sprouted
> stalk which grew several inches per day. I hope it will not grow
> since I would like to see it when I will be back home.  

No, they don't grow anywhere _near_ as fast as Aponogeton flowers, 
and last _much_ longer.
> 2) if indeed flowers will be produced, is there anything I can t
> them fertilized? If seeds can be obtained, would the turned-glas
> - -bottom be a reasonable system to grow new plants? I wonder if
> not have really sunny windows, I might not have the proper condi
> emersed growth.

Very few (if any) Echinodorus sp. are self fertile... you'll need 
another plant flowering at the same time to produce seed.  Even if 
it's a different species, you an produce some very interesting 
hybrids (like the 'Rubin') by crossing Echinodorus sp.

Regardless of whether you get seed or not, you will probably get 
plantlets.  Echinodorus sp. produce baby plants on their flower 
stalks, particularly if the flower stalk is kept below the surface 
of the water.  When these plantlets have gained a little size, 
they can be removed and planted separately in the aquarium.

If you _can_ fertilize your flowers, and you get seed, start them 
by placing the seed on a fertile (soil) substrate that is pretty 
well soaked, but not submerged in a closed aquarium to retain 
humidity.  They will need either good strong artificial light, or 
a long period of indirect sun light each day.  You don't want a 
sunny (usually south or west) window, as the closed tank will heat 
up way too much.  Try a north or east facing window.

I don't think you'll get the seed to germinate in a standard 
aquarium set-up.  Aponos will do this because they are fully 
aquatic.  Echinodorus have several reproductive strategies because 
they grow submerged, seasonally emergent, and sometimes in 
permanently bog-like conditions.


Subject: Hello and Anubias

> I was wondering if any of the members of this list might like to
> personal or known information on varieties of Anubias they have,
> kept, and little secrets for success - the do's and don'ts.  Thi
> lighting, water quality, fertilisation, CO2, growth pattern,
> temperature, substrate, filtration, livestock in the tank, depth
> water, propogation, etc.

I just had an article on Anubias come out in the November issue of 
 Aquarium Fish Magazine.  If you can't get this magazine in 
Austrailia, let me know.  I can't send you the photos, but I can 
certainly send you the text.


Subject: Big Eheim filters

> I have Eheims on both of my tanks - but I've come to the conclus
> cannister filters (regardless of type) are not worthwhile - spon
> are a better bet.  My reasons are as follows:
>         o  They're cheaper


>         o  Although sponge filters don't usually provide as much
>            as cannisters, that's not altogether important in a
>            planted tank since plants take care of most of your a
>            anyway.

I think this depends on the sponge and the particular canister 
filter.  Both can be good biological filters, but I agree that's 
not a crucial function in a planted tank.

>         o  They're a damn sight easier to clean

I don't know... I hate pulling a mucky sponge out of the tank 
while I drip dirty water all over the place.  I can disconnect my 
canisters and carry them to the sink for cleaning.  The whole 
process takes no more than 5 minutes per filter.

>         o  When they need cleaning, they look it - so there's n
>            excuse not to clean 'em.

You can see through the colored but transparent plastic of my 
canisters with no problem... And I don't have to look at them 
inside my tank. (or plant around them either)

> About the only good thing I know of to say about cannister filte
> that they make a good CO2 reactor.
> Am I missing something here?  Can other folks add some other goo
> about cannisters?

Besides my comments above, Canister filters are much better at 
mechanical filtration than sponge filters, and that, IMO, is the 
main function of a filter in a planted tank.

Karen Randall
Aquatic Gardeners Assoc.
Boston, MA