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Paludaria and Anubias ID
Subject: paludaria
Gerald,
> Several questions as I construct my dream (but real) paludarium
> What is the subsrtrate of choice. I would prefer not use
> soil;gravel?,vermiculite?rock wool?
I use soil in mine, in a segregated area of the tank. After a
discussion with Gary Deutschman on the newsgroup, though, I may
try some hydroculture plantings.
> Should the plants be in pots?
Most of my plants are directly in the substrate. I do, however
leave several African Violets in pots which I sink into the
substrate. That way I can rotate them for color. They bloom well
even if left in the paludarium, but there is always some
"down-time". (usually right at a major holiday when I want the
tank to look its best!<VBG>)
> Can the water from the aquarium section be trickeled or sprinkl
> irrigated over the plant area to fertilize the plants and purify
If you use bog type plants or plants that can do without soil,
like Ivy or Philodendron, certainly. Obviously in this instance
you would _have_ to do without soil.
> How much ventillation is needed? A glass cover to keep the humi
> is an attractive concept but would there be mold problems?
I find that if I keep the front 2-3" of my paludarium uncovered,
there is enough air exchange, and the fron glass doesn't steam up.
It would depend on the types of plants you were using. I don'r
want it _too_ humid, because my display depends to a large extent
on African Violets which would rot from too much humidity.
> Should the substrate go down to the bottom of the water or shoul
> elevated leaving the fish to swim under substrate?
Mine, as I said, is a segregated area divided off with a piece of
glass which runs diagonally from the fromt corner to half way
along the rear of the tank, and is about 1/2 the height of the
tank.
> Is lighting for a plant tank about right?
No! You will burn the terrestrial plants! I use 2 40W bulbs over
my 55G paludarium. (I use 4 bulbs over an aquarium of the same
size) This is all the terrestrial plants can take. The water
section is lushly planted, but I use low-light plants like Java
Fern, Anubias and Crypts. My paludarium is also low in dissolved
CO2 because of a waterfall that cascades down one wall of the
tank.
> Any publications to reccommend?
There isn't much. I just picked up a new TFH book on
"Aquaterrariums" but was under-impressed.
> Any mail order scources of plants?
I use the usuall aquatic plant sources. For the terrestrials, I
use mostly the grocery store!<g>
------------------------------
Subject: Anubias Hastifolia?
Mick,
> As I have mentioned in previous posts, I have a liking for anubi
> I have three types at the moment all doing well: nana, barteri &
> When I saw a large specimen for sale recently I had to find spac
> it in.
>
> I am sure it is some type of anubias but doesn't appear in my bo
> owner said it was Aubias Hastifolia, has anybody heard of this o
> their plant books? I would be interested in any information.
>
> It looks like a very big A. nana: same colour, shape of leaf, st
> that it is about 3x as big as a nana (approx 16 inches). If this
> fails to produce any responses I may be forced to use the scient
> and measure me spathes, peduncles and all.
A. hastifolia has long leaves that are shaped sort of like out
native Arrowhead. A. gracillis, which I have most often seen sold
as A. hastifolia in this country, has very triangular leaves, and
is a little les sturdy and "stiff" than most Anubias. Let's see if
I can draw them:
x X
x x X X
x x X X
x x X X
x x X X
x x x X x X
x x|x x xxxxxx|xxxxxx
x | x |
| |
A. Hastifolia A. Gracillis
The plant that (to me) looks most like a huge 'nana' (with long
stems) is the plant usually sold as A. caladifoila, which I
believe is probably really A. barteri var. caladifolia.
Hope the drawings turn out OK, this is my first attempt at
cyber-art!<g>
Karen Randall
Aquatic Gardeners Assoc.
Boston, MA