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[APD] RE: estimative index info

> From: Sandra Derrick <mygenericemailname at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] Barr method basic info
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> Hi all I have been a lurker for a long time now and was considering going
over to the "Barr side" of aquatic gardening. I currently have a 55 w/ DIY
Co2 that I run for a few weeks when my plants get a bit tired looking (the
older leaves get worn or I feel like making the swords flower) and dose at
low levels w/ seachem flourish and trace, doubling it when running Co2. The
tank looks great but I find I sometimes get a bit of stringy algae on the
older growth, and often have a weird hair type that hangs on the glass, it
is quite sparse and never more than a few millimeters in length- neither of
which are ever more than a nuisance. Bio load is  6 large rainbows, a 4"
discus, about a dozen small/med tetras,  about a dozen dwarf frogs, 3 small
botias, 6 banjo cats, and 9 pygmy cats.  The tank has a dirt (organic
topsoil)  /sand/vermiculite/fluordepot (the tank was set up about a year
ago and I think that was what it was called- it was a sera product that
came in a bucket and had a
>  dirt-like consistancy, the fish store I work in no longer carries it)
/cocoanut fiber/peat substrate with the dirt/sand being the greatest
portions and the over all depth being around 4"- an odd mix I know, it just
happened to be what I had on hand (leftovers from a tortoise enclosure
project). I have a great carpet of dwarf sag., several swords, some stuff
that was simply called "babys tears" on the order sheet, 2 types of red
ludwegia (sorry about the spelling), mexican oak and 2 types of rotila and
all of these have done great as well as others I have tried in the past-
including some hard stuff like glossostigma and heavy feeders like a couple
of "dwarf" lotus lilies that decided to leave their day jobs to become many
shade umbrellas (I had leaves the size of dinner plates at the rate of 4
every 2 to 3 days!) . The mix I have now seems to work best for the higher
temps my new discus will require and at 82 degrees are still thriving. I
have 4 48" 40 watt 10,000Ks that ru!
>  n around
>  15 hours a day. 

Reduce this to 10-11 hrs.
Make sure you get the CO2 issue resolved, that is your problem namely.

>>Filtration is a H.O.T. canister tilted for minimal surface disturbing
with a weak but still useful powerhead/ sponge combo on the opposite end
for circulation. I am still a bit confused by all of the abreviations for
the various compounds>>

Vitamin B does not sound too bad does it?
It's more complicated than KNO3. 
Just a name/acroynm.
It does not mean you are a nerd if you use the term:-)

>> and haven't a clue as to where to purchase them...


He's got all the goodies.

>let alone where to get reliable but reasonable tests for them (as I
mentioned before I am a lowly fish store employee- on a VERY modest income
for a single >Mom...and did I mention I also have a 75 gal reef tank to
support...gotta love this addiction er I mean "hobby" LOL) so any
simplification or links regarding them would be most helpful 
> Sandi

Hummm kids or reef  and plant tanks with Discus.......?
I guess the kids like mac and cheese?

Well, the cheap ferts from Greg will make things easy for you there, kids
might be able to eat a little better.
DIY CO2 needs tended to, I'd use 2 x 2 liter bottles at least.

For a Discus tank, plan on weekly to 2x a week 50% water changes, about 1/2
the normal KNO3 dosings.

So add for a week:
after 50% water change:

1/4 teaspoon of KNO3
1/16~1/8teaspoon of KH2PO4
Next day add:
10~15mls of traces
Wait one day.(or dose macro's again, then do a water change later if you
feed the Discus a lot))
Add macro nutrients again
Next day add traces then
Add macros following day

You can add macro's 2-3x a week up to about 4x a week.
Traces 2-3x a week.

CO2 is critical. Nothign will go right no matetr what routine if that's not
done correctly.
Measure the pH/KH at night before the lights go off.
20ppm min, better to have 25-30ppm.
Tom Barr


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