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RE: spray bars
I also have a Lifegard Quiet One plumbed with 1/2" clear pvc. My inlet is
1/2" tubing with four rows of 3/16" holes spaced 1" apart. My spray bar,
and entire return plumbing, is 1/2" pvc. I drilled 3/8" holes 1" apart
along an 18" spray bar. I put a cap on the end of the spray bar run, so
water comes out only the holes. Put masking tape over the pvc to precisely
mark the location of the holes on and also get a cleaner hole. I mounted my
spray bar just under the waterline. I tied some Brazilian Pennywort to the
spray bar and it quickly covered the spray bar completely. It can be kept
neatly trimmed since it grows rapidly emersed. Pennywort blooms freely when
emersed, but the flowers are just little white pom-poms. I like the surface
spray bar because I can rotate it to introduce the slightest surface
disturbance and flow. Since I inject my CO2 into the line just after the
pump, it dissolves completely and I don't need the spray at the bottom of
Having examined an Eheim surface extractor, I found I could easily add a
homemade surface extractor to my pvc inlet plumping. I added a tee and an
elbow at the bottom of my inlet tube and then added a 2nd run of 3/4"
(larger diameter than the inlet) pipe parallel to my inlet. This second run
is open at the end and extends above the waterline. I cut a slit in this
tube that extends about 2" below the waterline. I was worried about how to
throttle the flow, but the area of the slot I cut worked perfectly (lucky).
Now I have a nice little overflow that eliminates any surface film.
I worried about how big to make the inlet and outlet areas when I plumbed my
tank, but I don't think it matters at all. The Quiet One seems to operate
just fine with my metering valve fully opened or closed. It's quiet as
> I'm just about done plumbing my 125, and I need to make a spray bar.
> use 1/2 or 3/4 pvc, and what size holes should I drill in it. The pump is
> lifegards quite one and all the return plumbing is 3/4.