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Re: PO4
>
>
> Over the past several weeks noticed an increase in brush algae and
> brown spot
> algae on the glass and on slower growing plant leaves on my 75g. My
> intent was to start a fertilizer/trace element regimen. After finally
> finding a PH Down, I added about 15 ml of 30% H3po4 as the po4 source as
> I wanted to stimulate more growth as per Tom Barr's recommendation (AD
> #1240).
15mls? Perhaps ***2-4 drops*** of 30%. I think a ml is about 20 drops
average.
> To my surprise I found the po4 levels at 10ppm! (Yeah, I can
> hear it now I should have tested before adding anything;> So i did a
> test and find my tap water at 1-2 ppm (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Dry Tab)
> about 8 weeks ago it was almost at zero.
So the tap or the tank now has < 0.0ppm? I'm not understanding all the info
here. If the tap has gone to zero add 3-4 drops of H3PO4. If the tap is at
1-2ppm just do 40-50% weekly water changes. Check the NO3 also.
Now that I have all the
> ingredients Po4 also have no3 (Greenlight Stump Remover) Flourish
> Traces, Flourish Iron on hand. Help on how to proceed would be
> appreciated--should i make a large water change 80-90%? I did a quick
> 30% but this did not put a dent on the po4 readings.
Try 3 50% water changes spaced apart by a couple of days.
> Should I try to get the po4 down then add nitrates?
Yes, I'd try to get rid of it through water changes first. If you have fish
I'd lay off the food and add about 2 grams or so of KNO3. If you have 1/4
teaspoons about 1 and 1/2. Add a day after the water change.
po4 remover or
> filter?
You could if you wish. Water is cheaper to remove and add new lower PO4
water. Try to get under 2ppm before you stop doing every other day water
changes.
> And what is a good mix or ratio for the nitrate (stump remover powder)
> and distilled water?
Depends on fish load. If the fish load is low, 1/3 teaspoon every 3rd day
for your tank(*2.2 grams about). That'll give about 4-5ppm of NO3 extra each
time.
> Incidentally during the period where I suspect the quality of my tap
> water changed, one of the plants the water sprite which was a
> wonderfully healthy plant started to have slower growth and the leaves
> started to get spiky or long and spiny looking almost as it has morphed
> to a different plant, Lately it looks like half and half but growth is
> still slow enough that algae grows on some leaves. But i must say once a
> week one stem rots off close to the base as this is happening though a
> new stalk is growing out. Any ideas what may be causing this? Any advise
> is greatly appreciated.
It's a fast grower, it might be robbing one part for another and is likely a
mobile nutrient like NO3. Adding some K2SO4 would help. Add 1/2 teaspoon
once a week after a water change.
>
> Tank parameters are: Plants: Dwarf sag,red wendti,micro
> sword,
> 75 gallon, moderate/heavy fish load
Heavy fish is not helping.
spiral vals,
> hygrophilia,water sprite
> Flourite/gravel substrate cardamine,hygro difformis.
> 2 x 110 vho + 1 x 40 watt 10K at present
Good so far.
> ph 7.6-7.8
> 5 dKH / 12dGH
> Co2 carbo plus
There ya go. Your lucky you don't have more algae. That pH needs to be about
6.8. Turn the carbo plus/lights off if you use a pH probe to take a reading.
A decent test kit for pH.
If your having trouble getting the pH lower trying placing the outflow from
your filter slightly downward into the carbon bar so the CO2 rich water gets
pushed around good.
All the light, NO3, PO4 etc cannot be used if the CO2 is low. Perhaps you
meant pH 6.6-6.8?
Don't get down on your self. Your almost there:-) A few little things and
your tank should be doing well. Just do water changes till things stabilize.
Regards,
Tom Barr
> eheim 2026 fitter, no carbon
> again thanks to all,
> Hans S.
>