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Concerning O2 and Amano using it:
Art and others are correct on this one.
I looked again and could not find find it and doubt it. Boo Boo on my part
here. The Pollen glass diffuser threw me off:) I figured that it must have
been O2 when I read that part since the pollen glass is not easy to push air
through. I tried the night time air thing with no real results a long time
ago. I did not measure the DO then.
I had lots of fish and lots of plants at the time. If the fish looked
unhappy they got more air. The fish were the canary.
I don't add CO2 at night anymore though.
I have noticed that the wet/dry filter tanks tend to be better overall with
the algae/fish/plants. Perhaps this is a reason, they never get too depleted
of the O2 to cause a big(ger) crash.
No O2 is added by Amano but my notion is to optimize the O2 for the plants
and give some insight on why the high fish loads cause issue with tanks. Not
so much for the fish, but the algae and plant dynamics.
When the O2 gets below a certain level(what level?) algae can creep in and
aerobic bacteria can die off in the substrate. I don't have a filter so this
is either an aerobic bacterial or a plant thing or both. Filters are a
separate issue. A low DO level would not affect the anaerobes at all.
Perhaps in an ecological community context but I am going to ignore that
If the O2 level can be maxed, 100% to 120% (or some level) all the time(this
is not needed but I'm just curious)I am wondering what might happen to the
algae and the plants. How much effect might we see with each? How far down
will this go or how high?
As far as the safety, what are those little fish bags shipped with?
O2's safety is well established in several areas and aquariums are one of
I am not joking about safety here mind you. I have taken one too many folks
to hospital where I work. But I am quite competent with practical
tool/machine matters. There are other methods etc to add more O2 to one's
tank. A separate filter tank with a reverse lighting cycle could also do
this for you. There are other ways to push the DO over 100% for that 6 hours
or so that it dips below 100% at night(the last 1/2 before the light come on
in my tanks anyway).
How far could you push a system then if the CO2/O2/great lighting etc where
in slight excesses and then see about adding nutrients like P, K, Fe, and so
These levels are not found in nature(lighting changes constantly etc, CO2 is
a big one, DO's, BOD, seasonals, species interactions etc).
How far can this balanace stretch before it reaches a limit and what is
causing it exactly(is it what we really think it is or something masked?)?
High DO's and good plant growth? P added to a lake causes algae, but added
to a CO2 enriched tank it does not. Why? Is it the CO2 or the P? or a
balance of both? What is the ratio or balance of both?
And the preference "do not try this at home" for all those WHO feel it needs
said. I looked back and never said to do this or recommended it. I said "I
would like to... and it may...perhaps....seems to " etc
These do not translate into "Hey, try this out everyone."
These do not make an idea an endorsement of any kind that
I may be held accountable for said herein.........
>I strongly doubt that aquarists have to resort
> to injecting O2 from a compressed source in order to help our plants grow.
I agree. That's not my purpose though with using it. The same can be said
for many things, like cables for instance or CO2 in the right situations. I
like to explore ideas. A curious George if you will. (not George Booth -but
a story of a curious monkey named George:)
> If you are concerned that the mass of plants in your tank might deplete the
> O2 levels overnight (through respiration, as opposed to daytime
> photosynthesis, when they produce oxygen),
It's not a question of depleting but of optimizing/tweaking.
They respire during the day also but generally not as much.
I believe I read that they also take in more N during the night also.
it would probably be more than
> sufficient to use an airstone connected to regular air pump hooked up to a
> timer so that it comes on at lights-out. Or just increase the water
> circulation within the tank with a powerhead. The extra movement should
> allow the water to absorb sufficient oxygen from the atmosphere without
> resorting to aritificial injection of O2.
Naw, not enough to get it to 100% or over (Well, if you drop the temp way
down and increase the depth.....). I've done aeration in the past and played
with many variations. So have saltwater folks.
> If a tank does not reach at least 95% of saturation level for O2 (depending
> upon temperature and altitude) within a few hours of the lights coming on,
> you more than likely need to do a through cleaning of the tank and remove
> some of the decaying organic matter (which could severely depress O2 levels
> as the bacteria working to break down the organic matter do consume oxygen).
Naw, that's not my problem. I get higher levels than that most of the
cycle(except for about 4-6 hours). About 120% at the end and 90 % in the
beginning of the lighting cycle.
> But I think that you should be careful about recommending hobbyists run out
> and buy compressed oxygen.
I checked and looked for were I said this recommending to to others but it
was not there.
FWIW, O2 has been recommended for some saltwater set ups awhile back and
commercial equipment that is safe is available and sold to the aquarium
industry. One prime example is for shipping of fish. O2 was added and
recommended in place of Ozone for redox values in Reef tanks at one point. I
believe Albert Theil and other Reef folks used it, even going so far as to
showing it set up in FAMA magazine a few years ago. I think it would be
better than the other methods because you have to remove the ozone from the
treated water before it goes back into the tank and the H2O2 idea did not
seem to have much of an effect I think because of some other chemical
interaction that might be present. When plain O2 gas is added this might not
occur and perhaps more could be added than by the H2O2 method. Having
another set up tank on a reverse cycle could be a method but not in my case.
I want more flexible control and don't have the set up for the other tank at