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>IME, a level of 1 oz per 12 gallons of water (if added at one time) is
>safe, even for Krib fry. However, if the tank contains Otto's, you
>should reduce that to 1 oz per 20 gallons. If it's a plant only tank,
>you can increase the amount to 2 oz per 10 gallons, but this level will
>kill snails, knock the plants back a bit, and set the tank back to
>square one in stabilizing. Hope this gives you some idea as to a
>starting point for your IV drip.
Thanks a lot. This is the info on the upper ranges was looking for. I keep
otto's so it will be in 1 oz per 20 gallon range or less. I do have a plant
only tank but I'd need some algae or induce some algae to test this. We are
both talking about 3% H2O2 that they sell in the drug store?
>Question. How long does H2O2 stay active in water? I read somewhere a
>while back (can't remember where), that H2O2 drops the extra hydrogen
>atom and reverts to water after 10 hours.
I wonder how much H2O2 the straw puts out? Perhaps even lower than the 1 oz
per 20 gallons. Need to check Lamott or Hach to look up H2O2 test kits. At
the low levels that I intend to try I doubt I might not even need it though.
Perhaps 1 oz per 100 gallons. The straw cannot put out this much even.
An old post recalled:
>My "Introduction to Fish Health Management" (US Fish & Wildlife Service,
>2nd ed., 1995) recommends the use of hydrogen peroxide "at 250-500 ppm
>(100% active ingredient) for 15 minutes as an effective fungicide for
>incubating eggs and 250-500 ppm (30-60 minutes) for treating fish with
>external parasites" (page 108).
>I interpret this as meaning one probably shouldn't expose fish to more
>than 250 ppm for time periods over one hour. Note that H2O2 is
>typically sold in pharmacies as (I think) a 2% solution or so. Assuming
>the density of a 2% solution of H2O2 is 1 g/ml, then one ml would
>contain 20 mg of H2O2, or 20,000 ppm. Using 4 oz per 35 gallons would
>result in about 140 ppm H2O2, which might be pushing the "upper end" for
>long-term exposure. I certainly wouldn't go any higher.
I really doubt that the straw is adding this much H2O2. Perhaps it is as
James said, that dulpa has no light to leach out the chemicals(the straw is
fermented first though). Perhaps it is the humics and the H2O2 combined but
it would still have to be very low doses I would think. I'm considering
adding about 1 oz per day per 100 gallons. H2O2 does seem like a good in
tank algae killer if done right like ionic copper.
But there are certain advantages to peroxide. Dosing continuously being one
of them and easy removal due to breaking down relatively quickly afterwards.
Dupla's barely reactor lends some credit to this idea though. Perhaps they
are jumping on the the pond folk's bandwagon. Perhaps not. The straw they
have for their reactor is "fermented". Perhaps side stepping the light break
down process in this manner. This would make sense. This way they can sell
you this special, certified, expensive material for removing algae. If you
could get H2O2 for 59 cents at the drug store they wouldn't make much $ now
would they? That reactor is very expensive, I'd say around 150-200$ at least
plus you have to buy the fermented straw (a new batch every 3 months or so
for up to a 60 gallon tank)rather than the the stuff a farmer might sell for
12$ for a huge amount. The folks at Dupla's marketing are crafty.
I'm personally not to keen on Dupla but they have to make money and market
conveinence for consumers. I take care a full Dupla set set up and have
redone 2 more Dupla set ups. I understand they need to make money and all.
But.........150$ for a CO2 reactor? I can set a full CO2 system complete for
that or less. No wonder they pulled out of the US market.
Time to set up an IV dripper. Even at a drop every 10 seconds it would give
about 1.5 ppm of H2O2 for a 100 gallon and this may be even high to be
effective. Addition of humics also?