From olson@galileo.phys.washington.edu Thu Feb 9 08:57:45 1995 Received: from marge.phys.washington.edu by galileo.phys.washington.edu (5.65/UW-NDC Revision: 2.25 ) id AA05059; Mon, 6 Feb 95 08:57:24 -0800 Received: from interport.net (root@interport.net [199.184.165.1]) by marge.phys.washington.edu (8.6.9/8.6.9) with SMTP id IAA01968 for ; Mon, 6 Feb 1995 08:56:57 -0800 Received: from tmz.port.net by interport.net with SMTP id AA29132 (5.67b/IDA-1.5 for ); Mon, 6 Feb 1995 11:54:19 -0500 Message-Id: <199502061654.AA29132@interport.net> X-Sender: tmz@interport.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Mon, 06 Feb 1995 11:55:28 -0500 To: faq@marge.phys.washington.edu From: tmz@interport.net (Todd M. Zebert) Subject: RK Org.FAQ Beta 1 (part 1&2 of 3) X-Mailer: Hello All, This is something resembling a FAQ for reef keepers. It is a collection of every bit of data I could find in the archives and from my archives of *.aquaria messages on reef inhabitants and their care, etc., with special attention to reef pests and their removal. I have used books only to check some sci. names. I have contributed virtually no knowledge to this except to clarify and edit everything. Part 1 : is a collection of inhabitants (mostly inverts) and information relating to them which contains the following structure: Common Name(s) : Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Good things Cons : Bad things Import : Where they come from (geographically), how they arrive into tank, and issues involving reproduction Export : Removal from tank by plan or by loss Part 2 : A few articles on different topics Part 3 : Methods of Export (Removal of Pests) Unknown creatures or those with little or no information : -------------------------------------------------------------------------- chitons tube worms AKA feather dusters?? sea slugs of the Aplysia genus = nudibranch?? sponges flat worm sea squirts Christmas tree worms AKA feather dusters???? ---=== PART 1 ===--- General Notes on Hermit Crabs: ------------------------------------------ Tiny red & blue legged hermits don't seem to harm corals, are entertaining to watch, are herbivorous and seem to be diurnal. They turn sand. Common Name(s) : Red Hermit Crab Sci. Name : Paguristes cadenati Description : A bright red body and legs with yellow eye stalks. Nocturnal and solitary. Pros : Detrivore Cons : Import : LR Caribbean and Tropical Atlantic Export : Source : RKF Common Name(s) : Orange-Claw Hermit Sci. Name : Calcinus tibicen Description : Has a dark red or orange body with one slightly enlarged claw. Solitary. (to 1") Pros : Very good at eating micro-algae and some macro-algae. Cons : Import : Caribbean and Tropical Atlantic Export : Source : RKF Common Name(s) : Polkadotted Hermit Sci. Name : Phimochirus operculatus Description : Has a distinctive polkadot red and white, greatly enlarged claw, and blue eyes. (to 1") Pros : eats algae and sifts through the substrate Cons : probably the most aggressive and active of the small hermits Import : Caribbean and Tropical Atlantic Export : Common Name(s) : Red-Stripe Hermit Sci. Name : Phimochirus holthuisi Description : Similar to the Polkadotted Hermit. (to 1") Pros : Will eat algae and anything else it can gets it's claws on, but doesn't seem to bother corals Cons : Import : Caribbean and Tropical Atlantic Export : Common Name(s) : Red, White and Blue Hermit Sci. Name : Paguristes sp.? Description : Blue legs with a touch of red, white and black. Keeps in groups. (to 3/4") Pros : They will feed on detritus and micro-algae Cons : They will occasionally climb on corals, but apparently cause no harm. Import : Especially from Florida Export : Common Name(s) : Red-Leg Hermit Sci. Name : Calcinus californiensis Description : Has orange legs and a greenish black body and keeps in groups. (to 3/4") Pros : Will eat micro-algae and other bits of food missed by the fish Cons : Relatively bold and aggressive Import : Pacific (including Mexico) Export : Common Name(s) : Blue-Eye Hermit Sci. Name : Paguristes sanguinimanus Description : Orange body with bright blue eyes and keeps in groups. (to 1/2") Pros : Good micro-algae eater Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : -Blue-Spotted Hermit Sci. Name : Clibanarius digueti Description : Reddish-brown legs with bluish spots (to 1/2") Pros : feeds on algae Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Bristle Worms Sci. Name : Description : Small (1/4"dia max.) worms covered with 2 lateral lines of protruding white bristles. They grow to be at least a few inches in length. The body itself is segmented in brown and red. "look just like a fuzzy caterpillar worm, and boy, are they ugly." Pros : None worth mentioning, if any at all! Cons : They have devoured mushroom corals practically overnight. Import : LR, careful to not overfeed the tank, and they should not reach epidemic proportions Export : Predation Method by Arrow Crabs and Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp and also by Gomphosus Varius (Bird Wrasse), but small ones are hard to catch and there may be no way to completely eradicate them. Common Name(s) : Mantis Shrimp , "Thumbsplitters" Sci. Name : Apparently, this is a general name for at least three species that are often confused. Description : Looks a lot like a small lobster but with a much shortened thorax. It has needle combed claws but they are folded in just like a praying mantis. Quite colorful with blue, green, and tinges of yellow. They are found in both worm and cold salt waters, where it makes it's home by burrowing into the local substratum, rock, sand, etc. From these burrows it rarely ventures forth, with the exception of to mate and relocate. It feeds by peering out it's burrow until "lunch" happens by. If you're not sure you have them, try filtering the suspended particles out of gravel cleaning waste water and look for a cast molting. Mantis shrimp brood their young from egg to hatching, under the abdomen. The only time you see free eggs is if the mother has been eaten and lost her load or the eggs have hatched and you are only seeing egg castings. Pros : None worth mentioning, if any at all! Cons : "biggest curse to the aquarist." Predation on just about anything, including fish, and your hand while doing rock work. Some feel suspicions of breaking glass is exaggerated. Are very aggressive and powerful for their size. Import : LR Export : Some suspect Predation Method by Trigger Fish or Hoplolatilus chlupatyi, and definitely by Octopus, also by Gomphosus Varius (Bird Wrasse) Common Name(s) : Boxing [Mantis] Shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Like Mantis shrimp, but smashes it's victim with it's club like cheliped. May smash at it's own reflection, and has the power, when older, to crack the tank! Common Name(s) : ??? [Mantis] Shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Like Mantis Shrimp, but has a cheliped with which it lances it's pray. Common Name(s) : Popcorn [Mantis] Shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Like Mantis Shrimp, but stuns it pray with sound waves (a "snap" sound) created by well developed and robust cheliped that it closes rapidly. Hold a glass to the tank when you hear the sound and it should be amplified. General Notes on Shrimp: They make start to prey on other creatures they would not normally bother (like fish, and urchins) if they are hungry. Make sure they get plenty to eat. Many hatch larva every so often which add nicely to the plankton of the tank. Common Name(s) : Banded Coral Shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Molts approx. every month. May be feed some small FW snails and small feeder guppies. Pros : Cleans fish (although some don't consider them to be a cleaner as many fish typically would not go near them to be cleaned), eats excess food, Bristle Worms. Has been known to get along fine with, but not limited to, the following: Sabae Clown, Blue Damsels, Cleaner Wrasse. Cons : Suspect predation on Christmas Tree Worms. May steal food from anemones. Also suspected of eating Ricordia. Apparently, they are not compatible with Arrow Crabs. Import : Have two sexes and must be bought in mated pairs or they will most likely kill each other (even if both male or females are bought). Export : Common Name(s) : Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp Sci. Name : Lysmata.... Description : Some find they will clean your hand if you place it in the tank. Pros : Are the best cleaner shrimps. Some consider the best and safest shrimp. May eat small Bristle Worms. Cons : Some say not as good as Cleaner Wrasse, and that cleaner shrimp only clean fish that come to their "station." Some find they are mostly nocturnal. Some suspect may eat small polyps but most find they will steal food from the coral, although they may do damage in the process. Import : Are hermaphroditic, and if you have at least two in the tank, they will always (both) carry fertile eggs. Export : Common Name(s) : Peppermint shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Some find they are more productive then other shrimp. Pros : May eat Aptasia. Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Pistol Shrimp [is this same as Popcorn Shrimp??] Sci. Name : Description : Look a lot like cleaner shrimp or little lobsters. One of their claws is slightly larger (and can make a popping sound inside the claw) than the other. They tend to be very shy and burrow in the sand or live in rock holes. Pros : Eat the food that gets past your fish. Turn-sand. Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Fire Shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : May find they don't feed on Aptasia. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Camelback Shrimp Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Eats Aptasia. Cons : Import : Export : General Comments on Crabs: "No crabs are reef friendly" says some. Some suspect if you don't provide shells for the crabs they just don't grow. Big crabs can cause big trouble and will "eat everything in your reef" including fish. Common Name(s) : Arrow Crab Sci. Name : Description : Can feed them chunks of scallop and shrimp every couple days. Pros : Predation of Bristle Worms but may not if well feed. Has been known to get along fine with, but not limited to, the following : Tridacna, Corals, Anemones, Scallops, Mandarin Goby, Yellow Tang, Sebae & Percula Clown, Anthias, 6-line Wrasse, & Fire Fish, Cleaner & Camelback Shrimps. Cons : May prey on featherdusters and Christmas Tree Worms but usually not if well feed. Have been observed poking around some corals, this does not necessarily mean they are harming them, but perhaps are willing to steal food from it. Apparently, they are not compatible with Coral Banded Shrimp. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Hairy Crab Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Mean. Grow quickly and become destructive. May prey on small fish and hermit crabs. Import : LR Export : Common Name(s) : Rock Crab Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : May prey on small fish and hermit crabs. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Blue Crab Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : May prey on small fish and hermit crabs. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Spider Crab Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Fairly harmless. Eats algae. Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Decorator Crabs Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Sally Lightfoot Crab Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Horse Shoe Crabs Sci. Name : Description : Spends most of the time buried in sand. Pros : Turns sand. Cons : May get very large and cause problems. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Brittle Stars (as a group) Sci. Name : Description : Resemble star fish in that they have a central body, with a number of long thin legs that resemble feathers which are mostly used for filter feeding. Nocturnal and need somewhere to hide during the day. Pros : They are good sand turners (although only surface turning) and are mostly filter feeders. Cons : Some have been suspect for polyp damage, and at least some retailers discard them, but many seem to have no problem with them. Some are also suspected in damaging inverts such as shrimp. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Green Brittle Stars Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Growing evidence that can trap and kill sick any even healthy fish Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Sea Urchins Sci. Name : Description : Some suggest urchins should only be kept by themselves. Apparently, there are a couple species that are fine for reefs (see Moe) perhaps the "flower urchin". Pros : Graze on microalgea and unwanted macro algae. Ingest coral sand and clean it Cons : They eat polyps, calciferous and other "good" algae, coral, anything really, even things much large than it. Import : Export : Are vulnerable to predation by Arrow Crabs, Cleaner Shrimp, Decorator Crabs. Common Name(s) : Hydra Anenome, Hydroids, Aptasia Anenomies, Rock Anenomies (although this describes a number of species) Sci. Name : Aptasia .... Description : Looks like name-sake Hydra (from biology class). Small (2"dia max.) transparent and slight brown or slightly dull rust colored - do not confuse with benign 'common' rock anenomies. Pros : Reproduce rapidly and are very hardy. Cons : Will sting other anemonies and corals and slowly invade the others space. Very tough to kill because of . Import : LR Export : By copper-banded butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus) but some say this is not effective as the copperbandeds "would rather starve", and Racoon Butterfly fish, but not other butterfly fish. Common Name(s) : Sponges Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Most species not hardy in tank and when they die they spoil the water and dying areas give red algae a foothold. Import : LR Export : Common Name(s) : Sea Cucumber Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Turns sand. Cons : May or may not disturb corals, although only those on the substrate. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Tridacna Clams Sci. Name : Description : Brightly colored clams with zooxanthellae. They do not move, they attach to rock. Require a good deal of light and mild currents. Pros : Filter Feeders Cons : None Import : Export : Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius) and others Common Name(s) : Feather Dusters Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Filter feeder Cons : None Import : LR Export : Copperbanded butterfly (Chelmon rostratus), Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius), and many others Common Name(s) : Chocolate Chip Starfish Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Does not eat algae. Predator of bivalves and snails, among others. Import : Export : Common Name(s) : Medusa Worm Sci. Name : Description : A small worm that sends out web-like stands a few inches in length and then "reels" them back in. Pros : Detrivore Cons : None Import : LR Export : Common Name(s) : Acorn Worm Sci. Name : Enteropneust Description : Tend to be large. Look like a clump of thin pasta draped over rocks. Pros : Detrivore Cons : None Import : LR Export : Common Name(s) : Sci. Name : Description : Pros : Cons : Import : Export : ---=== PART 2 ===--- Turning Sand ========== Of popular interest these days is having so-called "live sand" in reef tanks. Without going into detail of the chemistry, or pros or cons of having live sand, one factor has emerged as a necessity: having creatures to "turn sand". That is, mix it, churn it, and move it around. Sand-Turners (in no order) ------------------------------------ Sea Cucumbers Serpent Starfish Brittle Stars Golden Headed Sleeper Gobies Yellow Jawfish Watchman Gobies Orange spotted sleeper goby (Valenciennea puellaris) - tendency to jump Long-finned sleeper goby (V. lonispinnis), Two stripe sleeper goby (V. helsdingenii) Yellowhead sleeper goby (V. strigata) - hard to keep Phalaena hover goby (Amblygobius phalaena) - A. species not as good as V. species Tailspot hover goby ( A. albimaculatus) Sphinx hover goby (A. sphinx) Convict worm goby (pholidichthys leucotaenia) - gets those "hard to reach" places NOT Appropriate ---------------------- Note: these are not sand turners (but are thought to be) or are otherwise unsuitable for the reef Ward's sleeper goby (V. Wardi) Signal or twospot goby (Signigonius biocellatus). Istigobius spp. Horseshoe crabs General Notes ------------------- Gobies: Can be feed live black worms and pieces of fresh shrimp and clams. Some have a tough time keeping them alive. Algae Control (Herbivorous organisms) =============================== Algae Blenny (Salarius Fasciatus) ?? Blenny (Genus Cirrepectes) Sailfin Blenny - may be very territorial Yellow eyed kole tang - some find they don't eat that much Astrea tecta Snails - suggest 1 per 1-2 gal. Turbo Snails - can get large, suggest 1 per 6-10 gal. Sailfin tangs diadema ????? Naso Tangs Yellow tangs Urchins (some suggest Arbacia puctulata) - be careful, see section on them Other Fish ======== Note: unless otherwise stated, are suitable for reefs. Also, all fish are different and some listed as OK may end up 'picking' or harassing other reef inhabitants, Mandarin fish (synchiropus splendidus) - Males have extended first dorsal ray Pyjama Wrasse (pseudocheilinus hexataenia) Royal gammas Emperor fishes of Centropyge family - seem to be coral friendly Wrasses - many have an affinity for different sorts of invertebrates Six line wrasse Clownfish - inexpensive and hardy Smaller tangs Many of the blennies and gobies Damsels - some say are too aggressive Angels - although most will eat corals Peal Scaled Angel - may be OK Lemon Peel Angel - some OK, some not Butterflies - not suitable Triggers - OK only when small Square Anthias Pseudochromis spp. Batfish - grow very Tall. Need a very large tank. Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus) ============ This fish has an affinity for parasites and will eat them off of other fish. In face, the other fish recognize this and will "pose" while the cleaner does its work. Some suspect will starve to death in aquariums because of the lack of suitable food but others report having them for at least 1 year. Some find they clean mostly tangs (or perhaps, as some have observed, that tangs have a tendency to become infected). On Moving Anenomies: ================== Using rubber gloves, alternate touching each side of the anenome will make it's sides go rigid and will come free after a bit. Do not attempt to remove them by using credit cards or similar items, this will hurt them. Todd M. Zebert SoHo, NY tmz@interport.net Check out my Web home page: http://www.interport.net/~tmz/ "What you don't know is probably more than you ever will." From olson@galileo.phys.washington.edu Thu Feb 9 08:57:52 1995 Received: from marge.phys.washington.edu by galileo.phys.washington.edu (5.65/UW-NDC Revision: 2.25 ) id AA05064; Mon, 6 Feb 95 08:57:30 -0800 Received: from interport.net (root@interport.net [199.184.165.1]) by marge.phys.washington.edu (8.6.9/8.6.9) with SMTP id IAA01975 for ; Mon, 6 Feb 1995 08:57:00 -0800 Received: from tmz.port.net by interport.net with SMTP id AA29186 (5.67b/IDA-1.5 for ); Mon, 6 Feb 1995 11:54:36 -0500 Message-Id: <199502061654.AA29186@interport.net> X-Sender: tmz@interport.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Mon, 06 Feb 1995 11:55:39 -0500 To: faq@marge.phys.washington.edu From: tmz@interport.net (Todd M. Zebert) Subject: RK Org. FAQ Beta 1 (part 3 of 3) X-Mailer: ---=== PART 3 ===--- Methods of Export ============== A Word on Bait : --------------------- The best and most successful bait seems to be a piece of shrimp from the grocery store. Some suggest soaking them for a few hours, the reason for this is unknown, but is reported to be very smelly. Be sure to remove the shrimp or whatever was used as bait as soon after the capture as possible, because it will decay and increase the bio-load on the tank. Some have had success with other seafoods, mostly shell fish, or fresh ham from the grocery store. Attempts with freeze-dried tubifex worms, brine shrimp, and regular flake food are much less successful. A Word on Prey: ---------------------- Organisms like Mantis Shrimp and Bristle Worms don't take kindly to being trapped and will fight back, by biting, pinching and stinging. Anenomies may sting. Any way it happens, it's likely to ruin your day so BE CAREFUL! Seriously injuring a shrimp or crab may cause it to eventually die by predation or ailment, whereas injuring a bristle worm or anenome is not enough because they will regenerate. Despite their pin-head sized brains, they will certainly hide after any failed capture attempt, and may actually make it more difficult to capture using the same method later on. Ensnarement Method: ----------------------------- This method involves using a fine net (large and folded) or nylon stocking, and placing the bait inside the many folds. The Mantis Shrimp or Bristle Worm would become entangled and you could then proceed to net them out, although some find this works best for small Bristle Worms. Some find they only stay entangled for a little while, while others may stay trapped as long as over night. This has the added benefit of once trapped, they may become a better looking snack for prey. You may have to weight the trap for it to sink. Active Entrapment Method: ----------------------------------- The basic idea here is to build a trap, either out of a tube, plastic bowl or Plexiglas, and include a lid. Make sure is plenty larger than the intended prey. The lid should be propped open, with a piece of rigid plastic air tubing or similar item, when placed in the tank, with elastic bands around it to snap it shut fast and hard. Tie a piece of monofilament line to the plastic air tubing and run it outside the tank. Sit down and observe; some find doing at night is best. Once the prey is within the trap, tug on the line so as to remove plastic tubing so the trap will snap shut. This method is especially useful for crabs and shrimp. Passive Entrapment Method: -------------------------------------- The idea here is similar to the Active Entrapment Method but does not require the fish keeper's interaction. There are a couple possibilities here, either a trap that activates when the prey touches the bait, or for Bristle Worms, a trap that allows the worm to enter, but can not leave because they have stuffed themselves and so can not fit (the commercial "Trap 'Em" device works this way), or for crabs and other non-swimming creatures, a trap they can't climb out of. Here's a diagram of one USENET user's acrylic trap which is 8" long and 3" high and wide: | | | | <--- guides | | |||----------------------- ||| | trap door--> ||| *|- <--bait held by plastic |||_______________________| toothpick The trap door slides down via a set of guides. There is a pin hole in the rear which is used to hold the bait (with a toothpick). When the shrimp tugs at the bait the toothpick comes out, releases a string which holds the trap door open, and the trap door goes down. To set the trap, pin the bait with a thin toothpick, raise the trap door and attach the string to the toothpick (with a loop). For Bristle Worms, any tube with end caps can be used and place the bait inside. One of two things can be done. Either drill a hole just large enough for the BW to get into but not out, or better, cut down a kitchen funnel and use it in place of the end cap with wide end out. They are more likely to squeeze in and not get out this way. For crabs and other non-swimmers, use a clean (NO soap residue!) tall glass or hard plastic tall cup (you'll need to weigh plastic down). Bait it, and place it so its rim is easily accessed from the prey's favorite rock. Wait a while, the prey will climb to the edge and fall in, and won't be able to get out. Injection Method: ---------------------- This is used to kill Aptasia (Hydroid) Anenomies but note they are very hardy, will retract into the rock when disturbed, any have amazing powers of regeneration even from the smallest piece left alive. It should be performed with some sort of syringe filled with any one or combination of the following (in order of riskiness): Fresh Water Boiling Water Concentrated Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser) - be careful! Low concentration Copper Solution (this is for experts only... you could easily kill your tank!) A good start is probably Boiling Fresh Water and re-inject it a few times, flushing out the anenomies hole also. It is suggested that the body cavity of the anenome should be filled with the solution and it should then be removed by hand to prevent decay or regeneration. Be careful with all of the above as other inhabitants will not take kindly to any of this either. A variation on this is to place a copper wire into the body of the anenome, but this should only be performed by experts because it could easily lead to the death of other organisms. Assault Method: --------------------- Locate where the prey is hiding in the rock and use a sharp pointy object to jab into the hole. With any luck this will work against crabs and mantis shrimp. Be careful to use a long device lest the prey come out and attack you! Eviction Method: --------------------- Locate where the prey is hiding in the rock. At this point a number of things could be done. Prodding into, or flushing the hole or crevice with a liquid (see Injection Method AND CAUTIONS) may cause it to leave its security, ready to be captured by the Extraction Method. Or, the rock may be removed and placed in fresh water, at this point, or after a couple seconds, the prey will leave the rock; note that this is hard on LR and may result in other dead organisms. As a final resort, the rock may have to be discarded, complete with the prey - but make sure it's actually in there! These methods will work for crabs, mantis shrimp and bristle worms. Note that bristle worms can sustain a strong hold within the rock and may not come free easily. Extraction Method: ------------------------ For the first of these ideas, enter the tank with a net and some sort of stick (for corralling the prey) such as chopsticks or tongs. For mantis shrimp, you'll have to locate it's hiding spot and flush it out (see Eviction Method) although note they often have a backdoor to their "home" or even a "cover" for the frontdoor. Sometimes the fact they have a backdoor can be helpful, simply place net over backdoor, and flush from the front door. For bristle worms, they are usually very nocturnal, so do it when its been dark for a while. Locate them swimming back and forth, muster your courage and corral them into the net. Or, take a good length of plastic 1/2" to 1" tube (enough to stick a ways out of the water), cover the top with your thumb or whatever's necessary to make it air tight, and lower it into the water by the BW (which must be free of its hole). Release the top of the tube so the suction pulls the BW into the tube, replace you thumb and remove the tube quickly from the water and release into a bucket. Note that the suction will cause the water in the tube momentarily to raise a couple inches above the tank's water level so watch your thumb! If you have good reflexes, you may even catch either of the above, and others such as crabs, with tongs. Predation Method: ------------------------ This method essentially is to import an predatory species that finds the pest a favorite treat (check the charts above). Unfortunately, many of these predatory species used for this with often feast on many organisms that you want to keep, but this sometimes can be alleviated by introducing them when the LR is first set up and before corals and anenomies are added, and then removing them. Predation has the added benefit of removing a good portion of the population of the prey, and keeping that way, even if the keeper doesn't know about the prey, whereas the other methods above require constant vigilance. Some retailers will "loan" you a predator for this purpose, but this is infrequent. Some most of the predators often feast on invertebrates such as shrimp, and corals, you could buy the predator and then either give or sell it to someone who's keeping a fish only or species tank. It has been suggested that an octopus will make a quick meal of mantis shrimp but also of everything else living in the tank. "If there's an invertebrate out there, then there's a Wrasse out there to eat it." Hoplolatilus chlupatyi will eat mantis shrimp, and other shrimp too. Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius) - eats bristle worms and mantis shrimp, but not suitable for reef, also likes Tridacna clams and tube worms. ===end of FAQ === Todd M. Zebert SoHo, NY tmz@interport.net Check out my Web home page: http://www.interport.net/~tmz/ "What you don't know is probably more than you ever will."