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Re: Live Foods Digest V3 #135



Maybe we should state at what production levels we want to maintain with our
Daphnia cultures.
I have had adequate production for my use from 1 large outdoor barrel ~ 40
gallons. This is with very limited attention in water changes and feeding.

Yes, maybe indoor cultures in small aquariums require extra care. Yes, maybe
if you want to have maximum production, extra attention and maintenance is
needed. (Sort of like the Marineland ads which show a 5 gallon Eclipse
Aquarium with 20 African Cichlids in living there. I guess it can work, but
how many water changes , etc. has to be done there).

I have never attempted to culture indoors due to space and light
requirements. Indoors I just maintain a small  5 gallon bucket worth for
purposes of jump starting outdoor cultures in the Spring.

The only times I've had serious crashes in my outdoor tubs has been when
temps were in the 90's for extended periods. And those cultures were not
buried which should prevent high air temps from affecting them. Even after
the crash they do come back after ~4 weeks on their own.

In other words, for most Hobbyist's purposes, Daphnia cultures can be done
outdoors with less maintenance than what has been described.

John M.

> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:32:27 -0500
> From: "Dan McMonigle" <mcdaphnia at lycos_com>
> Subject: Re: Daphnia culture
>
>   I have to respectfully disagree with John. Changing water daily or or
more often is necessary to leveling out the pulse and crash tendencies of
Daphnia. When "pushing" the production of my Daphnia, I set time aside about
every eight hours to check, feed, and change water as needed, three times as
often as the Dean of Daphnia. A more laidback method such as John's will
likely work, in the sense that someone with their old TI computer that uses
cassette tapes for memory has a working computer. I brought about 100 bags
of Daphnia to an ALA convention a couple years ago. I think there was a
tablespoon or two (drained) of Daphnia in each bag. I could not tell that I
had taken anything out of my cultures. Maybe that would also be true of
John's cultures. I don't know but I'd be curious. Always ready to learn new
things! Or gain new insight into the correctness of old ones!
>
>
>
> Get your small business started at Lycos Small Business at
http://www.lycos.com/business/mail.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:25:07 -0600
> From: Douglas Guynn <dguynn at nwol_net>
> Subject: Water quality
>
> Below is an analysis of water from the city where I live;
>
> General
> pH 7.6
> P. Alkalinity as CaCO3 0 mg/l
> Tot. Alka. As CaCO3 121 mg/l
> Total Hardness as CaCO3 571 mg/l
> Dissolved solids 1385 mg/l
> Bicarbonate 148 mg/l
> Carbonate 0 mg/l
> Dil Conduct 2814 (umhos/cm)
> Calcium 126 mg/l
> Chloride 469 mg/l
> Flouride 0.4 mg/l
> Magnesium 62 mg/l
> Total Nitrate 0.21 mg/l
> Sodium 263 mg/l
> Sulfate 380 mg/l
>
> Metals
> Barium 0.199 mg/l
> Chromium < 0.01 mg/l
> Copper < 0.006 mg/l
> Iron < 0.013 mg/l
> Lead < 0.001 mg/l
> Manganese 0.013 mg/l
> Nickel < 0.02 mg/l
> Selenium 0.0156 mg/l
> Silver < 0.01 mg/l
> Sodium 236 mg/l
> Zinc <0.02 mg/l
>
> Is this water suitable for raising D. magna? If not, could it be mixed
with
> RO water to achieve a tolerable dilution, or should I use RO water and one
> of the mineral addititves like RO Right?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Douglas Guynn
>
> In west Texas, where ANY amount of rain is appreciated.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Live Foods Digest V3 #135
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