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RE: Roger's tank

Roger wrote:
I'm worried that if I go to a 6 foot long tank the length may squelchI the
advantage of having a nice depth of field.  My alternative would be to use
something like a 4-foot long, 90 gallon tank - or maybe 2 :).  Does anyone
want to sway my opinion?  How is lighting best arranged in a 6 foot long
tank?
I have a 135 gallon(6Lx2Hx1,5D) that is lighted by a Giesman 3x150watt light
bar. Cost the $$ but is very,very sharp looking!  Perhaps a PC light bar
over it. There is a good sense of depth at 18 inches but 20-24 is super.
I have a 90 gallon (4x2x1.5) at home with 2x175watt MH's that seems to have
better depth due to shorter length and both side portions being viewable.
Also the entire back is covered in Anubias,java fern, Bolbitis, clumps of
Riccia, pennywort attached with the cork backing.  
2- 90's or a large 6 footer? Well, I'd say it depends more on the plants you
want(large swords-6ft or thin grass-like or stems-90gallon) in there and if
you want extra room for the log on the built up up side or more openness on
the other side.  A VHO system for a 150 was done in FAMA recently by Mr.
Osborne.  


My dream aquascape for the tank - at the moment, anyway - is centered
around a large bit of driftwood and rocks. The substrate would be banked
up on one side of the center piece (hence my recent question about
terracing and maintaining relief in the substrate) and hollowed out on the
other.  The image would be of a snag in a river stranded at low water in a
quiet off-channel pool.  The built-up part of the substrate would be
covered with low-growing plants and the hollowed-out area on the opposite
side would be a shadowy retreat for fish.  The back and sides of the tank
are still a bit misty.  I haven't figured them out yet.

Comments?  Ideas?
    Great idea. Some possible ideas for the back and sides which I've
playing with is using Crypt crispatula var.balansae & retrospiralis,
spiralis, usteriana, cordata var.blassii  in mass. These aren't arranged so
much as a wall of plants in the back but in vertical clumps or columns. This
allows light and space for the other lower growing plants. These columns
form the base from which the layout evolves like a small group of Bonsai
trees. I like this layout due to the light getting to the other plants and
some space and depth that is created while still getting all the species in
there I want. The plants themselves are slower growing than many so pruning
them is not so much of a chore and the trimmings are easy to sell.
     Using small long branches helps let more light in,more substrate
planting area, and gives some interesting lines to follow for the "flow" of
the tank. But pieces of driftwood with bulky character would look very nice
on the built up part of your tank with the low growing plants. Using the
branches extending out from the log away from the built up area would be a
neat idea too. If you want low light set up, that java fern lace or windelov
would look great attached to the branches while leaving space.
    Flourite doesn't move around as much as much as some substrates and you
could use, as suggested in a old APD post, a very thin layer along the front
of the tank(just enough to cover the tank's trim) sloping upwards to give
more vertical relief. I've found that the scree like shape of Flourite helps
keep it in place very well.
Well, my 2 cents.

Tom Barr       











 
 

Roger Miller