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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #873

On the subject of the tiger lotus bulbs, i have some that have been
dormant for about two years now? i dont think there dead? what do i do


---Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com> wrote:
> Aquatic Plants Digest    Friday, February 26 1999    Volume 03 :
Number 873
> In this issue:
> 	Re: Plant weights - Fe or Sn/Sb?
> 	Re: Steel wire weights
> 	Filtration
> 	Ottelia alismoides
> 	baking clay
> 	Re: bristle nose plecos
> 	Re:  Plant weights - RE: Dave Gomberg's search
> 	Red Tiger Lotus Bulbs
> 	snails dying... calcium?
> 	Re: Clay (was Laterite)
> 	More on Filter less Plant Tanks
> 	Re: Plant weights 
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 11:23:41 GMT+2
> From: "Jacques" <jgerber at Rhobot_ru.ac.za>
> Subject: Re: Plant weights - Fe or Sn/Sb?
> Hello All:
> > > ... solder for drinking water plumbing is no longer > allowed to
contain lead (I have no idea what they have > used instead - silver
and some other metal?).
> > 	I think it's 95% Tin and 5% Antimony.  I suppose that since this
> > the formulation chosen for household plumbing, it must not to be too
> > toxic.  Still, Antimony is in the same periodic table column as
> > which gives me pause.
> > 	What about using thin soft steel wire?  The local hardware sells
75' of
> > #19 (that's skinny -- 1mm) annealed steel wire for $1.50.  It's
not as
> > pliable as lead, but being thin, is very easy to work with, and it's
> > oxidation products are unmysterious and beneficial.
> > 	Just a thought... personally, I just jab everything into the
> > and hope for the best (which is why there's a long strand of
> > floating around the tank tonight :)
> > Sherman
> Just a thought here. One of our researchers asked me to obtain some 
> Egeria for a prac he had to give. I duly obtained this, and he tested 
> a sample to see if the experiment would work. He used some steel wire 
> (ungalvanised) to hold it down. Within a day the wire was rusty and 
> the plant looked very sick indeed.
> Moral of the story: Check on some cheap plants before using anything. 
> For the record BTW antimony is non-toxic
> Jacques
> ___________________________________________________
> Jacques Gerber
> Botany Department
> Rhodes University
> Grahamstown
> 6140
> South Africa
> Dept Tel#: 046 6038596
> Dept Fax#: 046 6225524
> Home Tel#: 046 6225000
> ___________________________________________________
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 06:44:00 EST
> From: AquaServe at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Steel wire weights
> I don't see why the steel wire would not work but it seems to me
that there
> would be a greater chance of the wire cutting into the plant and
damaging it. 
> Duane
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 07:44:31 -0500
> From: krandall at world_std.com
> Subject: Filtration
> Dave Gomberg wrote:
> >Since there seem to be so many filtration advocates on this list I
> >some questions:
> >
> >In a tank with lots of plants and
> >1.  no animals, is filtration useful?
> >2.  very few animals, is filtration useful?
> >3.  moderate animals, is filtration useful?
> >4.  In case 3, what role does filtration play?  What objectives
does it
> >accomplish?  What bad would happen if you omitted it?
> I can give you some anecdotal information.  I have twice in the
course of
> years turned off a filter for cleaning, on heavily planted, moderately
> stocked tanks and forgotten to turn them back on after they werte
>  I haven't noticed my error for as long as 8 weeks after the filter
> turned off. (What can I say, I'm lazy about cleaning filters<g>)
> Absolutely _NOTHING_ positive or negative has happened to the tanks
> these periods.  The plants have continued growing, the fish have
> swimming, and yes, even spawning.<g>  The water has remained clear,
and if
> there was more mulm on the bottom than usual, it wasn't enough more
that I
> noticed.
> I still use some form of filtration on my tanks because I think that
> circulation _is_ important, and if you don't use a filter, you have to
> devise a method of keeping powerheads from becoming clogged (i.e.
> filtration)  But I don't worry much about what type of filtration. 
I think
> that if you have little enough nitrate that you need to supplement,
> filtration is probably if little concern.  If you have to change
water to
> keep nitrate levels down, you are probably relying pretty heavily on
> bacterial filtration, and removing it could cause problems.
> Karen
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 09:27:10 -0600
> From: Thomas Fischer <TFischer at primediasi_com>
> Subject: Ottelia alismoides
> Has anyone on the list had experience growing Ottelia alismoides? Is
it as
> fiendishly difficult as the Baensch Aquarium Atlas implies? Is it even
> available in the U.S.?
> Tom Fischer
> Boston
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 06:50:39 -0800 (PST)
> From: pete rose <bfordyce at yahoo_com>
> Subject: baking clay
> Wright,
> how long did you bake the clay for (approximately)?
> >Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 14:14:40 -0800From: Wright >Huntley
> <huntley1 at home_com>
> >I have had excellent results using red potter's clay, >baked at a way
> low
> >temp. compared to normal firing.
> >By rolling long cylinders and cutting them into 1/2" >long x 1/2"
> >diameter plugs, I could bake them to a semi-insoluble >state in the
> oven
> >at about 350F. I imagined a 2" square grid on the >floor of a 55G
> >Placing one plug at each intersection, I covered the >bottom. 
> _________________________________________________________
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> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 17:52:08 +0200 (EET)
> From: Liisa Sarakontu <lsarakon at cc_hut.fi>
> Subject: Re: bristle nose plecos
> Jason Miller wrote:
> > I have a bunch of bristle nose plecos and am wondering how to sex
> > them.  I notice that some have white tips at the corners of their 
> > caudal fins, is this some sort of sexual dimorphism?  
> No, it isn't.  Many bristlenose species have these white or cream
tips at
> the corners of their dorsal and caudal fins when young, and some
> have them even when full grown up.  I have never noticed any sexual
> dimorphism in these spots.
> > By the way, the males (assuming I have any out of ten fish) haven't
> > got their bristles yet.  Most have tiny beginnings of bristles,
but none
> > have the elaborate bristles I have seen in older specimens.
> The fisrt tiny spikes start to grow when the fish are about 5 cm - 2"
> long.  Only males have any kind of beard on some species, and
females have
> some small stubs on other species.  And it depends on the species and
> specimen how full beard there will be.  Sometimes just very short,
> non-forked spikes, sometimes lots of branch-like bristles.  And it is
> normal that only the strongest male grows a full beard, the rest
have much
> shorted bristles or no beard at all.
> There are other ways to sex young bristlenoses too: wait until they
> sucking the front glass:  Males have wider heads and wider mouths.
> Females have bigger bellies, less blunt noses and narrower mouths. 
> have sturdier and more spiky first rays of pectoral fins.  That mouth
> width is often easy to see even when the fish is just 3 cm long. 
> Nidecki taught this to me when he visited me few years ago, thanks
> > but since they eat algae,
> The "common bristlenose" (temminckii- or dolichopterus-looking
species) is
> the best algae eater I have yet met!  They don't eat red algae, but
> types of green is eaten.  And they don't normally damage plants,
even the
> tasty swords, if vegetables and other food is given.  It is also one
=== message truncated ===

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