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hornwort won't grow



Thanks for the on and off-list replies.  The hornwort I have
experimented with typically is left floating and tends to slowly turn
brown and loose leaves.  Pretty much the same thing with the
egeria/anacharis.  I'm going to experiment a bit with some
supplemental dosing and monitoring and see what happens.




---Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com> wrote:
>
> 
> Aquatic Plants Digest     Sunday, January 17 1999     Volume 03 :
Number 782
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	Substarte by ADA
> 	Re: Hornwort & anacharis don't grow
> 	Anubias and Loach questions
> 	RE: Tropica Mastergrow
> 	Killing anubias (it's tough)
> 	Any Tropica Master Grow experiences??
> 	I'm glad there's no SPCP
> 	Antibiotic Treatment of Cyanobacteria 
> 	New to list
> 	Follow-up on Perfecto Sho lights
> 	Re: Erythromycin for Cyanobacteria
> 	RE:Ophiopogon
> 	Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #781
> 	Lotsa Mulm
> 	Re:  Erythromycin and Cyanobacteria
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 15:58:59 -0500
> From: "Guang Yan Wang" <lesenw-2 at idt_net>
> Subject: Substarte by ADA
> 
> Hello
> The substrate by ADA, is it an affective aquarium plant substarte? I
want to
> know if it can hold nutrients withing the substrate and provide this
> nutrients to the plants? Have anyone used it before? Do you get good
> results? I'm setting up a new plant aqurium, Could anyone recommend an
> commercial substre to me?
> Thank you
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 08:17:40 -0600
> From: "lmills" <lmills at socket_net>
> Subject: Re: Hornwort & anacharis don't grow
> 
> >Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:48:37 -0800 (PST)
> >From: Jay Dike <jjdike at yahoo_com>
> >Subject: Hornwort & anacharis don't grow
> >
> >This is sort of an abbreviated post of one I made Jan. 11 about plant
> >growth.  I'm wondering specifically if there is something hornwort
and
> >anacharis especially don't like - because they don't seem to grow at
> >all in my tank.  Other plants seem to doing ok.  Water and tank info
> >are in the Jan. 11 post so I won't repeat here.
> >
> >
> >
> >==
> >Jay Dike
> >Livermore, CA
> >
> First, I have to say that I missed your original post, so I don't
know a
> thing about your tank or your water, and have no idea whether what
I'm going
> to relate will work for you.  However, I don't know a thing about my
water
> chemistry either.....
> I added potassium gluconate (available in the vitamin section of
> supermarkets or drugstores) at the rate of about 100mg per 10
gallons once a
> week.  Although I haven't tried it with hornwort, I got explosive
growth in
> anacharis by adding potassium to the water column.  As I understand
it,
> anacharis and hornwort are similar in their ability to draw
nutrients from
> the water column, so they should react similarly.  I didn't get any
algae
> growth, and none of the "rooted" plants seemed to react they way
anacharis
> did.  I stopped after a while because the anacharis started to take
over the
> tank, despite getting eaten pretty steadily by my Flagfish.
> My tank is a thirty gallon "regular" with two 30" 40 watt HO
daylight bulbs.
> BTW, I don't see much discussion of "HO" bulbs when lighting is
discussed;
> it seems as though folks either use standard flourescents, or SHO or
VHO,
> but not HO.  The thirty inch size is perfect for thirty (or maybe
29) gallon
> tanks, and a pair of 40 watters is about right, too, at least if CO2
isn't
> added.  Any thoughts?
> Lewis
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:46:51 EST
> From: IDMiamiBob at aol_com
> Subject: Anubias and Loach questions
> 
> I ordered some plants from Pets Warehouse today, most of which I
haven't kept
> before.  Can someone explain the proper planting of Anubias barteri
var. nana?
> I have gleaned something about the rhizome being above the
substrate.  How
> far, and how do you hold it in place until it fixes its roots in the
> substrate?
> 
> At the lfs today I spotted some 2 inch, black and white
zebra-striped loaches
> labeled "Wu Fong-(algae eater)-$8.99.  They looked like yo-yos, but
brighter
> white and darker black.  Anyone know if they truly eat algae?  what
varieties?
> do they also munch the greens?
> 
> Bob Dixon
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 17:14:40 -0500
> From: "James Purchase" <jpurch at interlog_com>
> Subject: RE: Tropica Mastergrow
> 
> Bob/Georgia (great name B.T.W.) is asking for annecdotal experience
with
> Tropica Mastergrow, as he has had poor results with other products
(Seachem,
> Tetra and Kent were mentioned). Bob stated that new growth on his
plants are
> chronically "thin/yellow/light" and the plants deterioriate rapidly
without
> maturing, even though he has pleanty of light, a laterite substrate
and DIY
> CO2. Bob also reported problems with hair algae, which he attributed
to
> overdosing with Flourish Iron. He is attempting to "flush" the excess
> nutrients out of the system with a series of water changes.
> 
> Well, Bob, it does sound like you have a problem. How long has this
tank
> been set up? How much light is "lots" and how much laterite is in the
> substrate? (what kind of gravel are you using as well?) While you
are at it,
> how big a tank are we talking about? Where do you get your plants
from and
> in what kind of condition are they when you introduce them into your
tank?
> what else do you add to your tank (conditioners, medications,
tonics, etc.)?
> Finally, what is your water source and the hardness, alkalinity and
other
> water quality parameters of your water? Do you have any problems
keeping
> fish healthy?
> 
> I have never used Tropica Mastergrow but quite a number of others on
the
> list have and I'm sure that they will share their experience. I can
attest
> to the fact that overdosing with Flourish Iron (or any other iron
> supplement) can, under certain circumstances, promote problem algae.
> Flushing out a tank with a series of water changes is good husbandry
but is
> not really necessary with Flourish Iron, if all you are trying to do
is rid
> the tank of excess Iron. The ferric iron in Flourish Iron will oxidize
> naturally within the tank within days of introduction and will no
longer be
> bio-available. Although some algae may be able to use even the metal
in this
> state - I'm not really sure.
> 
> But one thing I do know, is that it sometimes takes a while to learn
how to
> dose particular products, and each tank is individual and unique in
how much
> fertilizer/supplementation that is needed. Quite often, the
directions on
> the label are overly generous (they do want to sell the stuff after
all, and
> the more you use, the sooner you will need more). It is always safer
to
> start out at 1/2 the recommended dosage and then ramp up slowly,
over a
> period of several weeks, depending upon the results you observe in
your
> plants.
> 
> Keep in mind as well that plants need a balance of all of the
essential
> nutrients. If even one of them is in short supply, growth won't be
optimal.
> Tropical Matergrow, indeed no commercial fertilizer aimed at
aquarium use,
> contains ALL of the essential elements needed by plants. Some are
designed
> to come from other sources - Carbon for instance from CO2 injection
(but you
> have that covered in your case), Nitrogen and Phosphorous are usually
> introduced thru fish food. Calcium and Magnesium is usually in water
of
> sufficient Hardness and hopefully your water supply has sufficient
Potassium
> (not always the case). Some nutrients are better in the water column
and
> others in the substrate. With a properly set up laterite substrate
combined
> with the appropriate use of complimentary liquid fertilizers, you
_should_
> see good plant growth. But it might take some time for your plants
to turn
> around. How long did you give each of the other brands of
fertilizers to
> work?
> 
> As you can see, I have more questions for you than you had
originally for
> the list. Life is sometimes like that. Let us know the tank
parameters and
> perhaps we can help you more completely.
> 
> James Purchase
> Toronto
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 18:54:44 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Richard J. Sexton" <richard at aquaria_net>
> Subject: Killing anubias (it's tough)
> 
> At 03:48 PM 1/16/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >That stands for Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Plants.  The
> >Anubias barteri, var. barteri I got more than three years ago is
finally
> >looking a little unhealthy, having been in the plastic bag from the
pet
> >store since July, 1995 in the kitchen with no light other than room
light.
> >I guess I ought to plant it.  Better give it a bleach treatment,
first.
> 
> Yeah, they don't like total darkness either, and will die in about
> a year in pitch black.
> 
> - --
> Richard J. Sexton                                        
richard at aquaria_net
> Maitland House, Bannockburn, Ontario, Canada, K0K 1Y0       +1 (613)
473 1719
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:51:52 -0500
> From: krandall at world_std.com
> Subject: Any Tropica Master Grow experiences??
> 
> >I've already searched the archives and read all that came up on this
> >fertilizer. Are there people out there that would share their
experiences as
> >to dosing and cautions and results using the Tropica Master Grow in
their
> >plant/fish aquariums? I have ordered a 250ML bottle to try, after not
> 
=== message truncated ===

==
Jay Dike
Livermore, CA

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