[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #612

I order my plants from Aquatic Gardens Arizonia and I am well pleased with
their services. Peter and Jermey are great about helping you to place an
order. Phone number 1-800-942-4523 Web site www.azgardens.com They have a
great site. Wilma

> From: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com>
> To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #612
> Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 3:48 AM
> Aquatic Plants Digest     Friday, October 30 1998     Volume 03 : Number
> In this issue:
> 	Substrate recipes
> 	Re: CO2 levels from Yeast Method CO2
> 	Re: CO2 levels from Yeast Method CO2
> 	mail order plants
> 	Second Plant Tank
> 	Re: The Optimum Aquarium Saga
> 	Re: Dirty Glass Top treatise
> 	Florreal Testimonials?
> 	Plants with African Cichlids
> 	SAEs
> 	Re: Seachem's buffers
> 	Re Oxygen
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 15:51:32 -0500
> From: Ted Lyman <lyman at mpi_com>
> Subject: Substrate recipes
> Hello all, I will try this again on the advice of some of you,
>         I regularly see various arguments about soil composition,
> mineral content and such but have yet to see a definitive "recipe" using
> these items that have worked successfully.  Is there a summary or web
> page that has listed specific of substrate preparation?  Does any one
> have any recommendations for what DID or did NOT work for them.  
> 	I am working on a tank for my office at work and would really like to
> try some "newer" methods for it.  I am particularily interested in the
> substrate part, but would like to see more detail before running out and
> buying a 100#'s of pottery clay. :)   
>         It would be nice to see a summary of all these different topics
> posted in a complete FAQ or something of a similar nature so that
> someone could easily view successes and disasters on a variety of
> topics.
> Thanks!!
> Ted
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 16:31:32 -0500
> From: "Jamie Johnson" <jjohnson at davisfloyd_com>
> Subject: Re: CO2 levels from Yeast Method CO2
> > I've recently set up a number of 20 Gal. tanks for study purposes and I
> > using individual 2 L. Yeast Reactors for CO2 supplementation.(1 L water
> > 2 cups of sugar + 1 tsp Baking Soda + 1 tsp Dry Yeast)
> James, I also have a 20 gal with DIY CO2. I use 6 cups water, 2 cups 
> sugar, and 1/2 tsp champagne yeast. This will get a good 3 weeks of 
> CO2. I have 2-2L bottles setup on a 2-3 week stagger. I hooked them 
> both into the feed line with a 'T'. I've noticed that when I set up a 
> new bottle, my CO2 falls to about 10-12ppm, coming from only the old 
> bottle. After 3-4 days, it steadys out to 20-25 ppm. Maybe since 
> you're using twice the yeast, and I assume, bakers yeast, you're 
> getting a lot more CO2, and a shorter bottle life. Try a lesser 
> amount and see if that helps. 
> > In the past (on my 120 Gal tank), I usually ended up with CO2
> > of between 15-20 ppm CO2 by using a homemade reactor where the CO2 gas
> > mixed with the water prior to entering the main aquarium. In this
> > I am feeding the CO2 from the Yeast Reactor into the intake stem of a
> > external power filter (Eheim Aqua Boss, very similar to a Hagen Aqua
> > 200). The gas enters the intake stream and gets forced into the water
as it
> > passes thru the impeller chamber of the filter.
> Mine gets injected into the uptake of a Whisper "C" filter.
> > The fish show absolutely NO signs of distress due to the high levels of
> > in the water.
> I've read that they can tolerate 40-50ppm, but I would guess it is 
> species determinate. Also, they can acclimate over time to high 
> levels if it is gradually increased.
> > Everything that I have read indicates that levels of CO2 of this nature
> > be dangerous. Should I take some action (aeration of the water) to
drive off
> > some of the CO2 in these tanks, or just leave well enough alone?
> I'd let it be if the fish seem happy. The plants will love it! Plus, 
> it will start decreasing over time.
> ____________________________________________________________
> Jamie Johnson         "Keep your eyes on the stars
> Chemist-Trace Metals   and your feet on the ground"
> Davis & Floyd, Inc.            -Theodore Roosevelt 
> jjohnson at davisfloyd_com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 22:44:50 -0000
> From: "Phil Bixby" <constructive at mcmail_com>
> Subject: Re: CO2 levels from Yeast Method CO2
> Hi folks
> I have a similar setup - 25g tank with a diffuser supplying CO2 from a
> yeast/sugar bottle.
> I've checked CO2 levels using ph/kH and the tables from the Krib and
> I get 20-25ppm CO2, which I've heard others report under similar
> circumstances. The yeast lasts about three weeks. Plant growth, with
> is fine.
> I wonder if there's a problem with your CO2 test method?
> Phil Bixby
> York, UK
> > I've recently set up a number of 20 Gal. tanks for study purposes and I
> using individual 2 L. Yeast Reactors for CO2 supplementation. Since
> the Yeast Reactors, the CO2 levels in each tank has shot up to anywhere
> between 45-56 ppm CO2.
> > How have other people who are using the "DIY" pop bottle method of CO2
> production found their CO2 levels? Have I perhaps chanced upon a secret
> strain of "super yeast"?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > James Purchase
> > Toronto, Ontario
> > jpurch at interlog_com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 18:15:53 -0500
> From: "Guang Yan Wang" <lesenw-2 at idt_net>
> Subject: mail order plants
> Hello everyone, i'm setting up a new tank. My local pet stors does not
> nice selections of plants. I need to oder them online. Does any one know
> online shop that is reputable and have nice selections of plants? Also,
> anyone sell or know where to get a cheap CO2 pressurized tank set up?
> thank you.
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 18:22:27 -0500
> From: "Jose Correa Lohmann" <jcl at pol_com.pe>
> Subject: Second Plant Tank
> I'm starting my second plant tank, the first one was a 55g fish tank
converted, mainly what I do in this tank was increasing the light and use
DIY CO2 injection, and the results are very good.
> In the second tank I want to go a little further I use peat for the first
1/4 of the substrate, on top I spread 5 tablespoons of earthworm castings
and 5 teaspoons of a 12-12-12 plant fertilizer all covered with LFS gravel.
Here in Peru we don't have any 
> The 12-12-12 fertilizer comes in 1-3mm pellets, I was wondering if I
could insert it in the gravel of the first aquarium around the plants.
> Thanks.
> Jose
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 16:04:20 -0800
> From: "D.Rudee" <donald.h.rudee at boeing_com>
> Subject: Re: The Optimum Aquarium Saga
> I was able to find a copy of the Optimum Aquarium at the King County
> Public Library, here in Seattle.  They didn't have it in their system
> but were able to obtain a copy to loan through their nationwide library
> exchange program...Not as good as having your own copy, but it worked
> for me!
> - --
> Thanks,
> Donald Rudee
> - -in Sunny!! Seattle
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 28 Oct 98 17:27:45 EST
> From: rjw at aluxs_micro.lucent.com (Ronald Wozniak)
> Subject: Re: Dirty Glass Top treatise
> >Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:51:16 -0600 (CST)
> >From: Tom Petersen <peter334 at tc_umn.edu>
> >Subject: Dirty Glass Top treatise
> >
> >Ron,
> >I have to admit my character-based email client made your treatise look
> >like mush.  Is this available on the FAQs or the Krib?
> >
> >Tom Petersen
> >peter334 at tc_umn.edu
> For those that got the report all mess up, you can get it directly from:
> http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants/month.9810/msg00537.html
> Even the internet references get put in. Neat!
> - ---------------
> Ron Wozniak  Allentown PA, USA
> rjwozniak at lucent_com
> AGA member
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 15:49:13 -0900
> From: "Grant, Drew" <DGrant at envircon_state.ak.us>
> Subject: Florreal Testimonials?
> I recently placed a catalog order and received a bottle of "Florreal"
> (Aqualine Buschke) liquid plant fertilizer (info says it's an essential
> supplement (mineral, micro-nutrient) to their "Ferreal" ) and to my
> it's got iodine in it. I ran a search of the APD archives (on the product
> and on iodine) and didn't get many relevant hits on this. I was wondering
> there are any testimonials (good/successes or bad/failures) out there
> people who have used it that they might be willing to share? Like, am I
> headed for green water and fuzz algae? or "works fine, follow
> - -- drew
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 19:03:17 -0800
> From: Dave Gomberg <gomberg at wcf_com>
> Subject: Plants with African Cichlids
> One of the great generalists in the hobby, Al Castro, writes:
> The question of plants with African cichlids is a lot more complex
> than some may realize.  First, and foremost, Africa is a huge
> continent with a vast variety of habitats but for aquaristic
> purposes, there are those fish from the Great Rift Lakes of Eastern
> Africa and a vast assemblage of very interesting fish that do not
> come from the Rift Lakes.  Remember, Anubias and Bolbitis
> heteroclitus are both African plant species and they take "normal"
> waters as do most non-Rift Lake fishes.
> The very popular Rift Lake cichlids that so many shops carry are
> from three major lake systems and they pose some problems for
> aquarists interested in plants but these problems are easily
> overcome.
> The least problem seems to be the "new batch" of cichlids from Lake
> Victoria.  The water in the lake is not outrageously alkaline nor
> salty so that a wide variety of plants can fit into the tank.
> Floating plants are simple ( and who cares if some get eaten ).
> Bunch plants are generally too tender to withstand the abuse
> presented by heavy bodied cichlids so this type of plant should be
> used sparingly but they can give an interesting contrast to the
> heavier bodied specimen plants.  Put bunch plants in pots so that
> they can be rotated in and out of the aquarium as needed.  Specimen
> plants of a wide variety can be used, especially if potted, but it
> would be foolish to put expensive plants in with cichlids that may
> decide that the decorations might be just the thing for a midnight
> snack.
> Lake Tanganyika poses more of a challenge because the fish only
> thrive in clean, warm, hard alkaline water.  Temperatures of 75 to
> 80 are not too difficult on the fish nor the plants but when the pH
> reaches 8.5 to 9.0, it is much more difficult to find plants that
> can tolerate the occasional robust body plowing through as the
> plants become brittle.  Increased hardnesses have a similar effect
> on the plants.  There are a few plants that do tolerate these
> conditions, namely; several varieties of Vallisneria, Ceratophyllum,
> Microsorium ( Java fern ) and the nearly indestructible Anubias
> varieties that grow so slowly they may have died but haven't figured
> it out yet.  As with keeping the Victorian species, specimen ( or
> rooted ) plants that are kept with Tanganyikan cichlids should be
> kept in pots to protect the roots from any digging that the cichlids
> may attempt.
> Lake Malawi poses the greatest difficulty for setting up a planted
> aquarium.  Most people automatically think of the group of cichlids
> called "mbuna" when they think of Malawi cichlids.  These are a
> large assemblage of rock dwelling species with mouths adapted to
> scrape the sheet algaes off of the rocks in the lake.  And they are
> normally fed a diet high in vegetable matter.  Tell you anything
> special about these fish??
> No, not really!  I had a tank at Steinhart Aquarium ( 320 gallons )
> that was devoted to these fish.  For many years it had live plants
> in it.  Granted that they were hardy plants but they were, none the
> less, plants.  It was a tall tank and I had success growing both the
> jungle Val, Vallisneria gigantea and the much shorter Vallisneria
> spiralis.  I also used Ceratophyllum demersum and/or the floating
> form of water sprite, Ceratopsis cornuta as surface cover.  The
> water sprite did not fare particularly well initially with the mbuna
> because they seemed to like the taste of it but I eventually added
> some of the red-tailed goodeid, Xenotoca eiseni, to the tank and any
> time the cichlids ventured into the upper portion of the aquarium to
> eat veggies, the goodeid would dart out of a clump to bite the
> cichlid in the nose.  It didn't take the cichlid long to learn that
> they didn't eat plants with the goodeids in the neighborhood.
> Just so that you know, there are other types of cichlids in Lake
> Malawi.  There are many, many other types of cichlids in Lake
> Malawi, maybe too many types of cichlids in Lake Malawi.  It is much
> easier to keep live plants in with these other types of cichlids if
> you remember that all cichlids like to move gravel and if you plan
> on putting plants with them, put the plants in pots or find a way to
> affix the plants to rocks or driftwood.  Lake Malawi has water with a
> higher mineral content than the Bay Area and it has a pH in the mid
> to upper 8's but many plants tolerate these conditions and, if they
> aren't eaten, do well in a Malawi tank.
> Hope this helps you more than it confuses you.
> Al Castro
> - --
> Dave Gomberg, San Francisco            mailto:gomberg at wcf_com
> http://www.wcf.com/wcf
> - -----------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 20:20:44 -0800
> From: Dave Gomberg <gomberg at wcf_com>
> Subject: SAEs
> The SFBAAPS (San Francisco Bay Area Aquatic Plant Society) (see
> http://www.wcf.com/sfbaaps ) has held its first SAE group buy and so far
> seems to be a success.   As a service to US plant folk, we would like to
> expand the reach of this program.  Please let me know if you would be
> interested in 6 SAEs, about 2-2.5" long, for $40, overnight shipping
> included.  They would arrive at your end about 10:30 AM so you would need
> to have an address where they could be received and kept warm, and the
> in the bag refreshed.   Thanks for your time.   
> - --
> Dave Gomberg, San Francisco            mailto:gomberg at wcf_com
> http://www.wcf.com/wcf
> - -----------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 22:23:27 -0600
> From: Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>
> Subject: Re: Seachem's buffers
> >Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 18:56:04 -0800 (PST)
> >From: "A. Inniss" <andrewi at u_washington.edu>
> >To: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com>
> >Subject: Re: Seachem's buffers
> >
> >
> >	Paul, I believe Seachem's Acid and Alkaline buffers are
> >zwitterionic.  Would you be so kind as to give a basic description of
> >this buffer system is and how it works?  Also, how might it interact
> >other buffering systems, such as bi/carbonate?
> >
> >		Thanks,
> >			Andrew
> **************************************
> http://www.metronet.com/~cyn  in delightful north central Texas
> Fish & Aquarium List Members Page
> http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/6635
> Fish & Aquarium list archives
> http://www.listserv.emory.edu/archives/aquarium.html
> Aquatic Plants Digest archives
> http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants/index.cgi
> eBay Users discussion list
> http://EbayUsers.listbot.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 18:08:07 -0800
> From: "Lenka" <brazda at bluep_com>
> Subject: Re Oxygen
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE0430.3F03AF60
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Hi Everyone  I have a Dupla Co2 system with controller but am wondering =
> what to do regarding oxygen.  I have dismantled the spraybars to stop =
> splashing and loss of C02 but will this be detrimental to the discus.  =
> Also lack of movement will probably cause a build up of film on the =
> surface.  How do people with CO2 manage to conserve it without optimum =
> oxygen levels for the fish?
> Regards Joan
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE0430.3F03AF60
> Content-Type: text/html;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> <HTML>
> <HEAD>
> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 5.00.0518.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi Everyone&nbsp; I have a Dupla Co2
> system with=20
> controller but am wondering what to do regarding oxygen.&nbsp; I have =
> dismantled=20
> the spraybars to stop splashing and loss of C02 but will this be =
> detrimental to=20
> the discus.&nbsp; Also lack of movement will probably cause a build up =
> of film=20
> on the surface.&nbsp; How do people with CO2 manage to conserve it =
> without=20
> optimum oxygen levels for the fish?</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards Joan</FONT></DIV>
> </BODY></HTML>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE0430.3F03AF60--
> ------------------------------
> End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #612
> ************************************
> To unsubscribe to aquatic-plants, send the command:
>     unsubscribe aquatic-plants
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo at ActWin_com".  Archives are
> available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants
> or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.