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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #590



Wright, e-mail me privately. I also would like to get a start of duck weed.
Can't find this in our local fish store. Does it grow well.

----------
> From: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com>
> To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #590
> Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 3:48 AM
> 
> 
> Aquatic Plants Digest   Wednesday, October 21 1998   Volume 03 : Number
590
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	Re: Duck weed
> 	Plant symptom FAQ request...
> 	Re: Duck weed
> 	Re: aquatic mud bath
> 	Funky algae
> 	Amano nature aquarium? no. 2 and 3
> 	re: slow moving river 
> 	Re:  Zero-tech tanks
> 	Sunny thoughts
> 	Das Schlamm  (Screened bagged topsoil)
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:20:30 -0700 (MST)
> From: "Roger S. Miller" <rgrmill at rt66_com>
> Subject: Re: Duck weed
> 
> On Tue, 20 Oct 1998, John Hayes asked where he could get some duck weed.
> 
> Its a common enough weed.  I got mine from the head of drain across the
> Rio Grande from Old Town in ABQ.  I imagine you could get yours from the
> Pecos or from irrigation works.
> 
> Roger Miller
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:43:33 -0600
> From: Victor Lee <Vlee at Soep-Alliance_com>
> Subject: Plant symptom FAQ request...
> 
> Hi,  
> 
> Seems a lot of people know alot about plant symptoms... to the extent
> that they don't need test kits to know what's happening to their tanks.
> 
> Instead, they just watch their plants for things like leaf yellowing,
> melting,
> fringes going, oxygen bubbles, etc...  this I glean from my lurking...
> 
> I was wondering if there was a FAQ on all these symptoms.  I as a newbie
> would sure love to be able to gage my tank without testing.  
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> 
> Victor L. Lee, P.Eng.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:59:32 -0700
> From: Wright Huntley <huntley1 at home_com>
> Subject: Re: Duck weed
> 
> > Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 04:23:07 -0600
> > From: Jon Hays <jhays at caverns_com>
> > Subject: Duck weed
> > 
> > Could anyone tell  me where to get a start of Duck weed.
> 
> I think it comes from the very same place you get cockroaches, used-car
> salesmen, Norway rats, and politicians. :^)
> 
> Wright
> 
> PS Just for being so snide, I'll stick some in an envelope and send it
> off. May be some giant duckweed, too (*Salvinia*).
> 
> - -- 
> Wright Huntley, Fremont CA, USA, 510 494-8679  huntley1 at home dot com
>  SPAMBOT food:   fraudinfo at psinet_com and psi at govt-aff_senate.gov
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:58:34 -0700
> From: Russ Walasek <rwalasek at znet_com>
> Subject: Re: aquatic mud bath
> 
> Many years ago, circa 1971, I set up tank with a substrate dug up from
the
> edge of a lake -  black mud. I recall it took several weeks to settle
out,
> planted only with val. Low tech - one florescent bulb on a 40 gal tank,
> supp. with some early morning sun. No filtration. Beautiful tank, 5
> elephant-nose seemed to love it.
> 
> Of course, I <could> have had lots of problems - all kinds of critters
could
> have been (and probably were!) introduced into that setup. A lot of
> unknowns, but it was expermental.
> 
> Don't know how it might have run long term, since I had to tear it down
> after a year or two when we moved.
> 
> Russ Walasek
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 18:19:34 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Justin Collins <weaslvil at rocketmail_com>
> Subject: Funky algae
> 
> I emailed once before and got no responses, so I'll try again.  I have
> this weird algae bloom in my tank.  I've never seen the breed, and I
> could not find any reference to it in the archives or on the internet.
>  It is dark olive-green in color, and looks like long, narrow bubbles
> or tubes formed around the leaves of my plants, especially those with
> very small or needle-like ones.  It almost looks like jellyfish
> tissue.  I can remove nearly all of it from the tank, and a few days
> later it looks like I did nothing.  It breaks up easily and has almost
> a stick consistencey.  Possibly a cyanobacteria?  As for water
> quality, I do weekly water changes, which has led to phosphate
> problems in the past (high phosphates in the tap water), so this could
> be an issue.  My nitrate readings have always been virtually zero, so
> I know this isn't the problem.
> 
> All help greatly appreciated,
> 
> Justin Collins
> 
> 
> 
> ===
> 
> 
> Dance like no one's watching, love like you'll never be hurt,
> sing like no one's listening, live like it's heaven on earth.
> - -- William Pukey
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:39:19 -0700
> From: "Bev" <bevgreen at cygnus_uwa.edu.au>
> Subject: Amano nature aquarium? no. 2 and 3
> 
> Hi all,
> Thanks for all the answers to my recent questions about setting up a
> planted tank,
> I bought the Amano nature aquarium world and i love it.
> I am now planning on purchasing no 2 and number 3 in the series,
> Are they more of number one or do they have new information on plants etc
> or is it just more of the same with different tanks?
> 
> Also what is the required filter turnover rate for a planted tank.
> I have a 1000 litre per hour canister which i intend to use on this 250
> litre tank = 4 times per hour turnover.
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> Daniel Green
> 
> bevgreen at cygnus_uwa.net.au
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:46:54 -0400
> From: Ed Hengel <hengel at computer_net>
> Subject: re: slow moving river 
> 
> >Thanks Roger. Anyone else have any thoughts like these? Has anyone
>tried an aquarium with a water supply that runs *through* it, to >simulate
a river?
> 
> >Olga
> >in Vancouverv
> 
> Yes, but very slowly,  about 20 gal. per day in a 55 gal tank.  RO water
> drips in 25 hours a day.  Occasional water changes with tap water for
> stability.  It is a Discus breading tank in which the pair have not been
> up to much lately so I put in several potted plants (thanks Neil): E.
> osiris, Cobomba caroliniana and Rotala Macrandra, each with a laterite
> mix substrate and 80w of light.  They're doing much better than
> expected, in fact I'm very pleasantly surprised. Although there is no
> co2 system, there is about 5 mg/l due to high co2 from well water.  
> I've also been throwing in a daily teaspoon of Instant Amazon I had
> received by mail order by mistake and had laying around and never before
> used.  So far (the plants have only been in a few weeks) so good.  As
> good in fact as the tank they came from, which may have a lot to do with
> it.  The only problem has been an slight increase in algae, the soft
> green kind on the glass. I'm hoping the addition of several more plants
> will take care of it. 
> 
> Ed Hengel
> AGA
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 21:52:44 -0500
> From: Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>
> Subject: Re:  Zero-tech tanks
> 
> On 19 Oct 1998 07:15:43 -0700, Dave Gomberg wrote:
> >Cynthia, do you have any idea what it is that has accumulated?  
Mulm????
> 
> I'm presuming so, yes.  If I'm remembering correctly, I think that was
> George's thought on it which makes sense to me.   I do gravel vacuum this
> tank but stay away from the substrate around the plants as much as
> possible, which suggests that there may be some anaerobic spots around
the
> roots as well.
> 
> I want to make something clear - at no point did I suggest this
> zero-tech-tank was THE way to do things, that it had to be that way or
even
> raise a controversial point.   I merely corroborated George's experience
> and said I thought it was cool, which it is.  Going from an essentially
> sterile environment (from the plants perspective) to explosive, luxuriant
> growth with no real intervention on my part has been amazing to watch
and,
> for those with patience, I recommend it for sheer interest.   
> 
> Despite what some people seem to think, there is no point of contention
> here unless one is manufactured.
> 
> Cynthia
> 
> **************************************
> http://www.metronet.com/~cyn  in slightly cooler north central Texas
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 20:59:26 -0600
> From: George Booth <booth at frii_com>
> Subject: Sunny thoughts
> 
> As alluded to earlier, perhaps there are lessons that can be learned from

> nature. Plants have been evolving for millions of years to exactly match 
> the environment in which they find themselves. Then we arrogant humans go

> and yank them from their rightful place and plop them into our own little

> suboptimal ecosystems, created by us as if we knew all the details. 
> 
> A case in point is lighting. We exhibit great angst as we debate our
CRIs, 
> Lux, PAR, Kelvin temperatures and spectral abberations. We discuss how 
> close to sunlight our 4700K (or 10000K) bulbs really are and how much 
> better the Phillps MPD32T/SG is compared to the GE SPX40/DY1. How can
these 
> marginal simulations even begin to compare the Real Thing?
> 
> Thus I ask, "Isn't it true that aquatic plants would grow better if we 
> moved our aquariums outside where they could be exposed to nature's own 
> lighting?" Why worry about converting lumens to PAR, sweating details of 
> black body radiation and trying to figure spectral power density? Darn
it, 
> just stick the aquarium in the sun!     
> 
> An advantage is the natural shift of lighting, both in duration and 
> position (daily and seasonal). Plants have adapted to a moving point 
> source in the sky. I would certainly suspect that the movement they
exhibit 
> as they maintain their orientation to the sun (what's the technical
term?) 
> is equivalent to the excercise that we humans must endure to stay
healthy. 
> 
> I know of only a few aquariums that are set up to simulate the movement
of 
> the light source. However, I visited a hydroponics store recently in
search 
> of metal halide bulbs and noticed the current hot set up was (and I'm NOT

> making this up) to have the MH fixture on a rail that allowed the
motorized 
> fixture to move back and forth above the plants. The equivalent of plant 
> aerobics?
> 
> I also have been corresponding with a gentleman in Australia that has a 
> computerized simulation of the seasonal daylight cycles and, I believe, a

> passable sunrise/sunset simulation. One hopes that this true-to-life 
> situation won't cause the aquatic annuals to shed their leaves and die in

> the "Fall".
> 
> Of course, there are some limitations to the proposed scheme. You would
be 
> limited to plants that have adapted to your locale. Surely plants adapted

> to tropical cycles would be fatally confused by time and positional 
> differences in a northerly or southerly latitude. 
> 
> Likewise, having the tank outside may present problems in certain 
> non-temperate climates. One solution is to have the tank on a track so
that 
> it could be moved ouside in the morning and inside at night where we
could 
> enjoy the better growth achievable with natural daylight. This is a
simple 
> engineering excercise. 
> 
> Or, better yet, build a greenhouse (wethouse?) for the aquarium! 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> George Booth, Ft. Collins, Colorado (booth at frii_com)
>   Back on-line! New URL! Slightly new look! Same good data!
>     http://www.frii.com/~booth/AquaticConcepts/
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:33:20 -0500
> From: "Andy Dilbert" <ixtapa at geocities_com>
> Subject: Das Schlamm  (Screened bagged topsoil)
> 
> Hallo APD,
> 
> I recently used bagged topsoil to build a substrate (rather than natural
> topsoil), so now I'm reporting preliminary results, for any other listers
> who live in Florida or Tunisia, and have no decent topsoil with which to
> build a substrate!
> 
> Since I live in FL, I have sand in my back yard, not that nice loamy
stuff
> that seems to be recommended.  So to get mud, I bought a bag of bagged
> topsoil from Home Depot.  (Brand: Southland.  Price: $0.89?.  Weight: 40
lbs
> or 18.2 kg.)    Then, as one would normally screen natural topsoil (like
> from a backyard) through a screen to remove excess organics, I ran my
> topsoil through a screen.  Karen, I saw you're comments about screens.  I
> personally had an extra window screen (with fiberglass screen) laying
> around, so I filtered my topsoil through that.  If you do not want to buy
a
> new screen, build a screen, or use one of your current screens, I'd
suggest
> you buy a screen from a Goodwill Store (Thrift Store).  *I'm a poor
student,
> so I shop at the local Goodwill Stores enough to know that my local
stores
> almost always have old window screens for very cheap prices.*
> 
> When I screened the topsoil through, the mixture consisted of three
parts.
> (Now for the really technical part of this email.  ;)
> 1)    50%:  The big chunks of stuff.  I guess this was
>            organic stuff.  The screen filtered it out, and I
>            threw it in the garden outside.
> 2)    40%:  Fine sand.  This was a very evenly grained-
>             fine sand with a grey tone.  (I kept this fine sand)
> 3)    10%:  Muck.  I wonder this was what silt is.
>             Anyhow, it was oozy and black.  Very fine
>             particles.  (kept the muck too)
> 
> Thank you very much for all the help you've given me Paul!  All credit
for
> anything good in this email goes to Paul Krombholz.  :)
> When I finish putting together my tank, I'll give my results.
> 
> Thank
> - -Andy
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #590
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