[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #213 & Plants to trade



Hi All...I am interested in making a trade with the person that had the
unusual plants and over 100 sp. to work with...Contact me at
dakota at startext_com  and we can discuss terms...Thanks...Charles..
-----Original Message-----
From: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com>
To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 2:54 AM
Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #214


>
>Aquatic Plants Digest      Monday, April 20 1998      Volume 03 : Number
214
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
> Re: CO2 level
> Substrate and potting
> Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #213
> Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #213
> Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #208
> Re: PMDD and MgSO4
> Looking for plants
>
>See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
>Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 15:58:59 -0500
>From: Carlos Munoz <cmunoz at crystal_cirrus.com>
>Subject: Re: CO2 level
>
>>>>>> Hans Sandin (here: "HS"),
>>>>>> on Sat, 18 Apr 1998 12:38:04 +0200,
>>>>>> pondered the meaning of life, then wrote down:
>
>    HS> Hi all,
>    HS> I have a question , how do you messure the CO2 level in a tank then
>    HS> you filter through peat ?
>    HS> All tabels I have seen say that they can't be used then you filter
>    HS> through peat.
>
>Hans,
>
>Water filtered by peat contains pH buffers other than carbonates, so the
>standard pH/KH/CO2 tables will *not* work.  The same buffers will interfere
>with direct CO2 tests, so forget about a C02 kit also.
>
>Your best bet is to make an estimate based on your bubble rate and look
>at your plants to see how they're doing.  Even just a little extra CO2
>helps a lot.  Make sure you have good circulation _below_ the water surface
>and that the water surface itself isn't disturbed too much.
>
>- -Carlos
>- --
>Carlos E. Munoz <cmunoz at crystal_cirrus.com>
>Join the AGA
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 17:31:44 EDT
>From: IDMiamiBob <IDMiamiBob at aol_com>
>Subject: Substrate and potting
>
>I have 2 questions about potting/substrate;
>
>1) If I cut the bottom off a large plastic peanutbutter jar (the kids and I
go
>through a bunch), and punch slits in this bottom, I would be able to build
a
>shallow "pot" about 5 inches across and about an inch deep.  This could be
>useful fortanks where I want to place plants in specific areas, but not all
>over, like along the back and ends, with the middle-front area kept open.
I
>could then put clay/gravel mix in the pot, stick it below the level of the
>gravel in the tank, and add the plants.  Then I could opt for an UGF for
the
>majority of the tank.  Anyone tried anything similar?
>
>2) I am thinking about trying ceramic tumbling medium in place of gravel.
I
>am waiting for a catalog to see if it available in1.5-2 mm sizes.  It
should
>be neutral and have enough porosity for bacteria to use as an effective
>biological bed. Anyone know anything dangerous in this stuff I should be
aware
>of?  I'm sure it has iron and several other minerals in it, but it should
be
>bound up strongly enough to prevent it leaching into the soil.
>
>Bob Dixon
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 18:15:23 -0500
>From: George Slusarczuk <yurko at warwick_net>
>Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #213
>
>Andrew Claxton wrote:
>>
>> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 09:46:09 -0700 (PDT)
>> From: Andrew Claxton <aclaxton at yahoo_com>
>> Subject: PMDD and MgSO4
>>
>> I am still confussed as to what the MgSO4.7H2O is in the PMDD.  I have
>> straight MgSO4 from Homegrown Hydoponics.  Will this work or should I
>> buy epsom salts?  Will any epsom salts work or are only some fully
>> hydrated?  The epsom salts at my local pharmacy are not labelled.
>> Also does any ony know of a place to get the Lamotte test kits in Canada?
>
>
>Hi, Andrew,
>
>Magnesium sulphate is magnesium sulphate. The water of hydration is
>significant ONLY on the crystalline (dry) form. Once you put magnesium
>sulphate in water it will become a magnesium sulphate SOLUTION,
>regardless of which starting material - MgSO4, MgSO4.H2O or MgSO4.7H2O -
>you used. The PROPORTIONS, however, have to be changed, if you are
>following a recipe:
>
>For each 1 gram (or ounce) of MgSO4 you have to use 2.0 grams (or
>ounces) of 7-hydrated magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts, MgSO4.7H2O).
>Sorry, but "tablespoons" can not be so converted! (Well, they can, but I
>do not have the necessary bulk density data!)
>
>I do not know what form of magnesium sulphate they use in hydroponics.
>To be safe, use Epsom Salt, although I don't think that magnesium
>content is very critical. You can look at the crystals in your
>hydroponic salt and Epsom salts. If they look very much alike, they
>probably are, because Epsom salts is about half the price of the
>anhydrous stuff (MgSO4).
>
>Best,
>
>George
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 20:12:17 -0500
>From: George Slusarczuk <yurko at warwick_net>
>Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #213
>
>Yves Durocher wrote:
>
>> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 14:45:52 +0000
>> From: Yves Durocher <yves.durocher at nrc_ca>
>> Subject: Fe2+ or Fe3+ ? that is the question.
>>
>> What is the best bioavailable form of iron for aquatic plants:
>> Fe2+ (e.g. FeSO4) or Fe3+ (e.g. FeCl3) ?
>> Also, is there any reported toxicity related to chelating agent (EDTA
>> and others) accumulation in the aquarium ?
>
>
>Hi, Yves,
>
>Fe+2 is the bioavalable form of iron. Fe+3 is insoluble above pH, say,
>6.0. It drops out of solution & forms a brownish gel.
>
>Unfortunately, FeSO4 oxidises rapidly to Fe+3 [Fe2(SO4)2(OH)2] which
>then goes by several steps to [Fe(OH)3]x - which is very insoluble!
>
>Thus one HAS to use chelated iron+2, to prevent its oxidation in
>solution. In nature, the available iron is chelated by organic acids of
>plant origin & often is the limiting nutrient. This is why you can see
>pictures of Crypt stands in red mud, full of iron +3 - ("rust"), but
>iron limited.
>
>I have never heard of EDTA being toxic to plants, but who knows? (I
>suspect that commercial preparations do use EDTA to chelate the iron,
>because it is a very good chelator and one of the least expensive.
>
>FeCl3 - ferric chloride - in solution is very acidic, almost as acidic
>as hydrochloric (muriatic) acid.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Best,
>
>George
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 16:20:46 -0500
>From: Bob Wurster <wursterb at intrepid_net>
>Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #208
>
>>From: Kelly <apples at midohio_net>
>>Subject: That Fish Place
>>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>I was going to order my first plants from them, but they don't know the
>>size of their X-large Amazon swords--does anyone here know just how big
>>they are?  Is this a decent place to order plants from?
>>- --
>>Kelly
>
>
>I was there for the first time a couple of weeks ago for their annual tent
>sale. It was a madhouse, but worth the hassle. I was impressed with their
>plant stock, though I have never mailordered plants from them. A wide
>selection of nice specimens in good condition. I'm not sure about the size
>of the swords. The largest ones I remember seeing were around twelve inches
>tall.
>
>Bob
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 21:49:14 -0500
>From: Bill Warner <lww at ictech_net>
>Subject: Re: PMDD and MgSO4
>
>>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 09:46:09 -0700 (PDT)
>>From: Andrew Claxton <aclaxton at yahoo_com>
>>Subject: PMDD and MgSO4
>>
>>I am still confussed as to what the MgSO4.7H2O is in the PMDD.
>
>It is epsom salts.  It's probably listed that way as that is the most
>readily available form of MgSO4.
>
>>I have
>>straight MgSO4 from Homegrown Hydoponics.
>
>Unlikely.  Even if it really was anhydrous at time of purchase (Are you
>sure about that?), unless you store it in a desiccated environment it's
>probably not anhydrous any more.
>
>>Will this work or should I
>>buy epsom salts?
>
>Sure, why not?  Just use up to 50% less than the recipe calls for,
>depending upon how dry you think it really is.
>
>>Will any epsom salts work or are only some fully
>>hydrated?  The epsom salts at my local pharmacy are not labelled.
>
>The name "epsom salts" specifically refers to the heptahydrate.  However,
>be aware that the actual level of hydration may depend on the ambient
>temperature and humidity.  In any case, assuming that epsom salts =
>MgSO4.7H2O is surely good enough for aquarium use.
>
>
>- --Bill
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 21:34:05 -0700
>From: "Duane R. Menting" <menting at pacbell_net>
>Subject: Looking for plants
>
>Hi,
>I'm looking for
>Crypts,Lagenandra,Najas,Eusteralis,Ottelia,Hottonia,Zosterella,Crassula,and
>any help finding these odd ball plants.I do have
>C.albida,parva,wendtii,becketii,balansae,retrospiralis,petcii,ponterdifolia
,griffitii,blassii,tonkinensis,and
>am looking for any of the "other" Crypts.I have over 100 sp. to trade
>and am willing to pay a decent price.Any odd or unusaul plants are
>welcome!Thanks
>Tom Barr-------menting at pacbell_net
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #214
>************************************
>
>To unsubscribe to aquatic-plants, send the command:
>    unsubscribe aquatic-plants
>in the body of a message to "Majordomo at ActWin_com".  Archives are
>available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants
>or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.
>