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Re: Thom's tank

> ------------------------------

Thomas Cooper wrote:

> Here we go again.
> 	I respectfully ask for someone to please read this and answer my
> Quetions please.  I have sent a few posts to the list so far and most
> went unanswered.  I will be sending for a report from the water co., and
> will be comparing my test results with theres'.
>

Geez, did you really have to include all the html gobbledegook when you
attached your old letter?

As a general comment, you seem to have a lot more filtration than you
need.  You could probably pull some of that off and put it to good use
elsewhere.

[snip]
> The gravel for this filter is 1-3mm, and about
> 5" thick  I plan on adding Duplarit k Pellets to the subsrtrate.
[snip]
> 	I did tests on both my tap water and the aquarium water with Red Sea
> Pharm Ltd's Deluxe Fresh lab..  I did a waterchange about a week before
> the test.
>
>             Tap          Tank
> Ph          7.2          6.2
> KH          1 Deg.       O Deg.
> GH          7 Deg.       7 Deg.
> Fe          0.1 ppm      O.1 ppm
> Nitrite     0 ppm        0.05 ppm
> Toxic NH    O            0.00075ppm
> Co2         10 Triation  The color wouldn't change.?????
>
>
> The tank has been up and running for five years...

Cool.

[snip]
> 	My Question is are.  Before adding plants should I turn off the
> undergravel filter and use the powerheads for watermovement.

You can if you want to.  It seems like you probably have a lot of
circulation without them.

> Is the
> substrate two thick, If not how do I keep the substrate from turning
> anoxic if the ugf filter isn't running.

The substrate is thick.  It's only *too* thick if you have some problem
with it.  A good growth of plants should keep your substrate from getting
rank.

Anoxic substrates aren't necessarily a problem.  For instance, yesterday I
tore down a 5-year old paludarium with 6-8 inches of peat/potting
soil/aquarium gravel substrate; it was mostly gelatinous goo.  It had some
mild circulation but not enough to keep it mechanically aerated - and no
circulation at all for the last couple weeks. Despite its gross texture
and appearance, it had the distinctive (and I think, pleasant) aroma of
fresh soil.  That substrate was probably just the thing that a young
aquatic plant setting out on its own for the first time would want to
get its roots into.  Certainly the 18-inch high, profusely blooming C.
wendtii that I pulled out of that tank weren't complaining about it.

On the other hand... I had a ugf-equipped tank with a 5-6 inch thick
substrate and after about 6 years I reduced that to 3 inches.  I felt like
there was so much "stuff" built up in the substrate that it was causing
problems.  I liked having the 2 or 3 inches of extra tank space I got be
reducing the substrate.

> Obviously the PH and the KH are
> too low Does this have to do with the fact that I couldn't get a reading
> on the Co2 in the tank water.  I thought that central Ohio's water was
> high Ph and KH because all the limestone, which is calciumcarbonate.

The alkalinity is low in your tap water and lower still in your aquarium.
The low alkalinity in your tank could be because of nitrification or
because of a competing buffer effect from the peat.  Mulm built up in your
substrate might also contribute.  I can't say if that caused your CO2 test
any problems.

> The GH seems to be just alittle high.  Should I remove the peat from the
> powerfilter.

Peat might act to lower your general hardness, but it usually won't raise
it.  The general hardness in your tapwater and aquarium water are the
same.  So apparently the peat isn't doing much to soften your water,
either.  Its water-softening capability may be spent, it may have been
treated so that it's ineffective in your water, or there may just not be
enough there to make a difference.  I'd lose the peat.

> I plan on makeing some PMDD from recipes in the archives.
> Any thoughts on geting my water parameters in line for plants.

Your tap water looks fine, except for the low alkalinity.  You may want to
beef that up with a little sodium bicarb to get 3 - 4 degrees.  Low
alkalinity isn't a problem by itself, but if you start injecting CO2 or
just skip a water change or two you might find your pH plunging.
Increasing the alkalinity will give your tank more stability.  All else
remaining equal, it will also raise the pH.

> I know
> this was very long.  Thanks for youre patience.

Who, me patient?  I have an assistant to be patient for me.


Roger Miller