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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #991



How do you get the infor for Uncles Ned's Fish Factory???

John Van Rees


At 03:48 AM 10/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Aquatic Plants Digest     Friday, October 3 1997     Volume 02 : Number 991
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
>	Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #990
>	Iron test kits, price, availability, best and worst??
>	MIME ENRICHED.... oops!
>	SAE
>	Shrimp egg shells
>	Re: Thiel laterite chunks
>	Use of Aquadyne controllers.
>	Re: Optimal hours for lighting
>	Re: blue-green algae and calcium
>	Re: CO2 regulator
>	Iodized Salt
>	Re: blue-green algae and calcium
>
>See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
>Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 11:54:04 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Roger S. Miller" <rgrmill at rt66_com>
>Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #990
>
>>
>> Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 01:17:58 -0700
>> From: Jeremy <adamsjer at ucs_orst.edu>
>> Subject: Light Shopping
>>
>>            The daylights had a higher kelvin value then the sunlights. I
>> think around 6500. Both were 40 watts.Which bulb would work best? Would
>> two pairs of either lights be enough for a 140 gallon tank? I'm not sure
>> I can fit nore under the hood.
>
>> Thanks for any help,
>> Jeremy in Corvallis Oregon
>>
>
>I bought a pair of GE daylight delux tubes with a high K value - I think
>it was 6500.  It was like lighting my tank with cool white bulbs.  The
>color rendition was terrible.  I think the CRI (color rendition index) is
>more important than color temperature when choosing a light.  The daylight
>delux tubes had a CRI of 75 or so, which is too low.  For good color
>rendition you need the CRI to exceed 80.
>
>Two pairs of very normal output, 40 watt bulbs doesn't seem to me like
>enough light for most purposes.
>
>Roger Miller
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 14:30:58 -0800
>From: Christopher Carrigan <carrigan at pris_bc.ca>
>Subject: Iron test kits, price, availability, best and worst??
>
>Hi,
>
>A short question on Iron test kits. I would like to know what are the
>better ones, thier cost, availability, and any comments a user might have.
>Thanks
>
>- -----------------------
>Christopher Carrigan
>Arras, B.C.  V0C 1B0
>
>carrigan at pris_bc.ca
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 17:35:24 -0400
>From: "Adam R.Novitt" <novitt at javanet_com>
>Subject: MIME ENRICHED.... oops!
>
>Hi,
>	I'm the CSM Plantex guy.  Sorry about the coded nonsense with my posts. 
> Please forward all complaints to Bill Gates.  I also wanted to say I am 
>experimenting with CSM because it is easy and cheap.  With Plenums to 
>assure water movement in the root zone.
>
>In Massachusetts which is difficult to spell.  Our first frost last night. 
>
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>`
>end
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 19:11:10 -0400
>From: Jeff & Denise Dietsch <dietsch at voicenet_com>
>Subject: SAE
>
>Hello all,
>   I just wanted to add to the archives that I am another happy Uncle Ned's
>Fish Factory customer.  I ordered 10 SAE 2 days ago and they all arrived
>today alive and are nibbling away in my tank as you read this.  
>
>BTW Will these guys eat staghorn algae??
>
>Jeff
>
> 
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 20:30:12 -0400 (EDT)
>From: IDMiamiBob at aol_com
>Subject: Shrimp egg shells
>
>Help!
>    I am looking for the technique that removes the shells from brine shrimp
>eggs before hatching.  I thought it was to soak them in a 2.875% sodium
>hypochorite solution for six minutes, but that's not working.
>Also, can I do a bunch at once and then use them as I need them?
>Thanks in advance
>Bob Dixon       in Boise, ID, where 81 is still a doable temperature
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 17:28:41 -0700
>From: Bob Hoffman <bhoffman at deltanet_com>
>Subject: Re: Thiel laterite chunks
>
>> Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 19:59:43 -0400 (EDT)
>> From: MMacG1167 at aol_com
>> Subject: Thiel laterite chunks
>> 
>> I was thinking of getting some laterite in chunk form from Thiel Aquatech,
>> but I seem to recall seeing someone comment that Thiel's "chunk"
laterite was
>> not very chunky or solid and not much different from the "dirt" form (and
>> therefore not good for adding to an established tank). Has anyone who has
>> purchased chunk laterite from Thiel found this to be the case?
>> 
>> Matt
>
>I bought some a long time ago with the same results.  What I suggest you
>do is wet the laterite until it is the consistency of mud.  Then roll
>chunks of it into balls about 3/4" in diameter.  Put them into the oven
>at 250 degrees for a few hours until it drys.  The laterite balls then
>can be placed into the gravel with minimal clouding of the water.
>
>Bob
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 18:33:44 -0800
>From: "Peter W O'Dwyer jnr" <odwyerpw at capital_net>
>Subject: Use of Aquadyne controllers.
>
>Folks,
>
>I have a 120gal Planted Aquarium.  pH is 6.7 to 7.0 (manual).  Temp is 29C. 
> Waterchange is 3 gal a day. Light 240W, 11 hours a day.  6 Wattley 
>Turquoise Discus, 23 Cardinal Tetras, 8 Panda Corydoras, 2 Zebra Plecos, 11 
>Marbled Hatchets, 2 Clown Plecos and 6 Chinese Algae Eaters.  Several 
>Vallisneria, Eichniodorus, Hydrophilia, Chyptocoryne, Bacopa and 
>Micranthenum species.
>
>Wet/Dry Trickle Filter, turning water over every hour.  DIY Manual CO2 
>Injection with DIY Reactor w/ older Beckman Labtype pH meter for monitor 
>only, no control.  6 40W Fluorescent--Vita-Lites on cheap timers.  DIY 
>Manual Heating Cables controlled by Honeywell UDC w/ PotterBrumfield Relay. 
> Ebo Heaters for backup.
>
>Shortcomings:  No feedback control on pH.  Did not use Laterite in 
>substrate (I will!).  Been using cheap fertilisers.  AGA Oak Stand & Canopy 
>are made of 3/4" plywood (scares me,  I need to gussy it up!).  Using a 
>cheap timer for Water Changes (worry it will fail ON!)  All my systems s  
>eemed Hodge Podged.  Admittedly, Plant growth is not optimum.  Would like 
>to automate the entire system using one solution.
>
>I have been considering building my own using an inexpensive PC, 
>specifically, the PLCDirect DL405 and DirectSoft software.  However, it's a 
>very expensive solution (~$2K) and will require alot of programming.  Has 
>anyone used a PLC to automate all systems on there aquarium?  If so, how 
>did you interface the pH probe and perform calibrations?
>
>I am also considering one of the Controllers manufactured by Aquadyne, 
>specifically, the AquaNode 500.  Has anyone used this product or the 
>Octopus 2000/3000?  Has anyone used the auxillary Digital I/O (2in,2out) 
>for Automated Water Changes,Dosing,Level Control?  What was your overall 
>opinion of the quality of the instrumentation and power/ease of use of the 
>software?  Is anyone willing to share the cost of the fully configured 
>system?
>
>Lastly,  I have seen many discussions of PMDD.  What is it an abbreviation 
>for?  I currently fertilize with Iron Daily and Plant food weekly.  How 
>often is PMDD used and does it satisfy all fertilising needs?
>
>Peter W O'Dwyer jnr
>odwyerpw at capital_net
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 20:13:47 -0700
>From: MP <pearlsco at u_washington.edu>
>Subject: Re: Optimal hours for lighting
>
>> From: Samir Makar <smakar at cableregina_com>
>> Subject: Optimal hours for lighting
>> 
>> I have my lights on a timer for 12 hours/day (6:00 am - 12:00 pm & 5:00
>> pm - 11:00 pm).  This allows me to enjoy my tank in the evening as well
>> as feed my fish twice a day.  I have noticed that my one plant (Mayaca
>> sellowiana) opens its leaves about 8:00 am, and closes them about 8:00
>> pm.  This does not seem to be affected if the lights are not turned off
>> from 12:00 - 5:00.  The question is:  is there optimum hours that I
>> should have my lights on?  Do they somehow know day/night?
>
>I have done both broken lighting (0700-1300, 1630-2230) and straight
>lighting (1030-2230).  Here is what is interesting... Plants grow fine
>under both regimes.  I've had plants flower under both, and thrive. 
>Algae does too.  Nutrient uptake seems to be the same, and so does
>bubbling.  The major difference I HAVE seen is that everything grows
>more with the lights on continously.  Rather than interupting their
>growth, they can continue without doing "catch-up."  If you don't care
>about that, neither fish nor plants seem to mind the broken light cycle.
>
>Oh, and yes, plants can "tell" when the photoperiod changes.  It affects
>flowering, etc.
>
>
>Cheers,
>
>Mark 
>- ------
>pearlsco at u_washington.edu
>How much does a fish need a bicycle like a man needs... ?
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 20:17:36 -0700
>From: MP <pearlsco at u_washington.edu>
>Subject: Re: blue-green algae and calcium
>
>...SNIP...
>> hard water.  I almost never see it in planted aquariums in which half or
>> more of the water is R/O (GH<5).  Of course, limiting the calcium without
>> addressing an overabundance of nitrogen or phosphorus won't make a tank
>> algae free - another variety of algae will be happy to move in.
>
>Well, I find that BGA is more than happy to move in my tank (always
>GH<3, KH<3) if I forget to dose my nitrates.  Of course I find that GSA
>is more than happy to move in if I overdose them.  Just makes me
>appreciate more what nature does by itself.
>
>
>Cheers,
>
>Mark 
>- ------
>pearlsco at u_washington.edu
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 20:25:29 -0700
>From: MP <pearlsco at u_washington.edu>
>Subject: Re: CO2 regulator
>
>Tony,
>
>...SNIPED HERE AND THERE, AND THERE, ETC...
>> psi).  The regulator also has some kind of an electrical control device =
>> attached to it.
>
>Sounds like it has a built in solenoid.  Regulators don't have any
>electrical parts (none I've seen anyway).  Most are spring pressure
>activated.
>
>> This device also has a small little plastic screw at the back with an =
>> arrow indicator which I can turn to either position A or B.
>
>Sorry... No idea here.  Maybe a solenoid bypass?
>
>> It also has 4 metal screws at the bottom.
>
>Probably the ones that hold it together.  I wouldn't mess with them.
>
>> Can anyone tell me how do I control the outgoing pressure and how do I =
>> use the electrical control device?
>
>Usually it will have a single screw that controls the output pressure. 
>Out all the way shuts the regulator off (or should), and in all the way
>would make it discharge at full rate.  Some models have a lock-nut on
>this so that once it's set, it won't move.  Good luck and let me know
>how it goes. 
>
> 
>
>Cheers,
>
>Mark 
>- ------
>pearlsco at u_washington.edu
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 00:48:36 -0400 (EDT)
>From: JOlson8590 at aol_com
>Subject: Iodized Salt
>
>Iodized Salt normally contains "anti caking agents. They are just about the
>perfect sized particle for newly hatched brine shrimp to ingest, so it is NOT
>really a good choice for hatching brine shrimp. It certainly is NOT toxic to
>people, but then, we would not be breathing it, would we? 
>
>No, I DO NOT know whether Iodized Salt is bad for fish or not, but I prefer
>"Canning and Pickling Salt," which is pure Sodium Chloride. Oddly enough, it
>is often MORE expensive than Table Salt! Go figure. 
>
>BTW, there have been at least TWO long, and somewhat contentious, discussions
>of Kitty Litter in the past year. The Jury is still out. Look it up in the
>Archives, PLEASE! As others have said, let us let this one lie peacefully!
>:-)
>
>Cheers!
>
>Jean Olson
>JOlson8590 at AOL_com
>Out in the Boonies, near
>Cambridge, Iowa
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 02:57:23 -0400 (EDT)
>From: ac554 at freenet_carleton.ca (David Whittaker)
>Subject: Re: blue-green algae and calcium
>
>Jim Kostich says....
>
>>   My own experience has been that blue-green algae is
>>most commonly a problem in saltwater tanks or freshwater tanks with fairly
>>hard water.  I almost never see it in planted aquariums in which half or
>>more of the water is R/O (GH<5).
>
>GH<3 here in Ottawa. I've never had a problem producing blue-green
>algae. My theory, previously stated, is that it is adequate oxygen
>levels in the water column that hold it in check. Circulation pumps
>are one method of providing this.
>
>- --
>Dave Whittaker
>ac554 at FreeNet_Carleton.ca
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #991
>************************************
>
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