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re: CO2

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: psears at emr1_NRCan.gc.ca (Paul Sears)
Subject: Re: CO2
To: Aquatic-Plants at ActWin_com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:23:51 -0500 (EST)


> From: STDIXON <stdixon at bechtel_com>
> Subject: CO2 Questions
> 
> 
> I think it is.  I'm going to try Tropica Mastergrow (per Randall) as well
> as PMDD when the micronutrient mix arrives--so the question should go away.

	I would not suggest using both at the same time.  The method 
Kevin and I developed was not (as Karen Randall suggested) based on
Tropica Mastergrow; we used logic and experiment.  The plants _need_
K, N, P and a well-known list of trace elements.  They must be provided
somehow, but there is no point in duplicating sources, and I infer 
from what Karen said that Tropica Mastergrow is a trace element mix.

> 
> My plants seem to be doing fairly well.  (I'm so new to a reasonably well
> fertilized aquarium that I'm not certain.)  I'm getting an inch or more
> growth per week from hygo difformis and at least that much for other stem
> plants including rotala indica and macandra.  Amania gracilis is growing 2
> or 3 inches per week.  Java ferns, swords, bolbitis and crypts are growing
> some new leaves each week,

	This sounds reasonably good to me.

> but I also continue to grow algae (mostly green
> spot,

	This is the one algae type that persists in Kevin's main tank
and in my main tank.  It is not obtrusive, but it does remain on older
leaves.

> but a bit of cyanobacteria persists as well).  

	That is consistent (in my experience) with zero nitrate. 

> Crypt leaves are showing some chlorosis though
> (yellowish and spotting).

	That sounds like a deficiency of something.

> I continually get zero readings for nitrate and iron--seemingly
> no matter how much I'm fertilizing.

	It is worth testing kits with solutions known to contain the
material of interest, just to be sure they work O.K..

>   Phosphate readings are about .1 ppm
> which is my guess as to why I'm growing a fair amount of algae.
> 
	How much is in your water supply?  What is in the substrate, and
are you disturbing it?

> Since I can never get a nitrate reading (and I
> still have phosphate), I have increased the KNO3 (slowly) to a full
> teaspoon per day (still zero nitrate readings).  I observed the (roughly)
> 2:1 ratio of K and Mg to KNO3 in the PMDD recipe--so I have been increasing
> the K and Mg as I have tried to establish low levels of nitrates in the
> tank.  Is this crazy?  Should I be increasing KNO3 alone?
>
	I would, provided the nitrate test is O.K., and I think it probably
is, keep increasing things until readings do appear.  The K2SO4 and KNO3
should be increased together, generally.

> My source for KNO3 is Cooke's "Stump Remover and Potassium Nitrate." 
> Someone seemingly knowledgeable in the garden shop assured me it's all
> KNO3.  The lable says "13-0-44" and guarantees 13% "Nitrate Nitrogen" and
> 44% "soluable potast (K2O)."  

	That is consistent with it being about 95% KNO3.

> No other ingredients are listed.  Is this the
> right stuff?  Would you put as much as a tablespoon of the stuff in a 125 g
> daily if that's what it took to get a 2-5 ppm nitrate reading?  

	A tablespoon sounds a heck of a lot, but you are quite a bit below 
that now.

> couldn't get an Fe reading (using Sera Fe test).

	Check that test kit too.
> 
> I got the
> impression from the Aqualine Buschke material that reactor efficiency might
> be, in part, a function of dKH.  The material emphasized that one would
> only get the stated performance at 10 dKH or greater.

	I don't think so.  I'm not sure what they mean by "stated performance",
but I can't see what the KH has to do with it, unless you are talking
about the pH you will get, or are controlling for.

-- 
Paul Sears        Ottawa, Canada

Finger ap626 at freenet_carleton.ca for PGP public key.