[APD] RE: Red eye

["Thomas Barr" <tcbiii at earthlink_net>]

>Also, just for the record, it wasn't I that presented the
>pic to which Tom refers. Not that I wouldn't consider
>punching up the saturation a tad, just like 'most everyone
>else, if I did ;-)
 
For the record, I never mentioned any picture in particular. Merely I'd
seen some that sure look doctored.
So being my old crotchety self that enjoys figuring out how and why
something works, I decided to see if I could reproduce that same color and
the same dark deep greens.

Well what do you know? I can:-)
Sorry if I've outed anyone secret but it's something not talked about much
and ___a lot of weight___ is given to these images.
So while some are slightly doctored in some respects, it is very important
to view a photo as a piece of art and not the true image of the tank itself.
It can enhance and leave out many traits. Likewise so is the aquascape, how
it looks over a long period vs a tank that looks good at 2-6 months of age
and then sort of ratty thereafter is also something to consider.

Folks judge based on only the photo, I'm not too keen on that personally. 
It does not tell you very much. 

>One point I'd like to add. With some plants, the redness
>doesn't seem to be merely new, young growth, for it's only
>the new, young growth up closer to the lights that reddens.
>Others have noted this, too.

Actually some plants the older growth becomes redder.
Plant species variability makes generalizations difficult but most red
shift color changes can be linked to the pigments and the nutrients
contained within them and various biochem pathways.

Remove the chemical and get more red.
You can do this very well with Azolla, typically very red, quite green when
you add Nitrogen. When the NO3 is high, the duckweed will proliferate, when
the Nitrogen is low, the Azolla will and it's always red. An interesting
side bar: removing the Mg will also do this(increase red color), which with
low GH, might encourage redder color as well and be less of an issue than
with NO3.

Mg is the central coloring agent in chlorophyll, otherwise it's a dull grey.
Similar thing with blood and the Fe. 

> > And not all those reds can be accounted for by Photoshop,
> > either.
> Certainly not. Many of those contest tanks, if seen in
> person, are even more breathtaking than a photograph can
> convey.

But I've seen some in the past that are certainly touched up and colors
added. Some were film, some digital. 
I'm not saying who and that's not the point, but there are certainly some.
Any tank should look better than a photo in person, but a photo does not
show everything either..........I do not like to judge any tank without
seeing in person. and even then I have reservations.
I'd rather see the tank's success over several weeks, years etc.  

I can add color very easily to an image and I have posted raw images and
then gone back and altered them later just to see. Most photographers PS
(Photoshop) their work, seldom are they raw images. Same with film. 

Amano certainly spends a lot of time with large film negatives and is
skilled at film developing, lighting etc.
That is part of the art, but new folks need to realize that just because
you see it in a photo, does not imply that is what you should expect nor is
that "desirable" or perceived as such.

Redder does not = better.
More light does not = better

These are things _we desire and assume_. 

Test the limits of the plant and see what you think is good healthy happy
plant growth.
If you need a redder color, pick a redder plant. I've seen some nice red
Eustralis and it was stunted. I've seen some not so red Eustralis that was
in great health.
Steve Dixton played with this plant and the PO4/NO3 quite a bit.
I later did many different experiments on it at even higher light.
Less light yielded easier reds in most every plant and provided more stable
NO3 levels.
It also provides better reliance on fish waste and recycling.  

> Liz
> Breakthroughs are not created through consensus.

I agree. 

Regards, 
Tom Barr

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