[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

[APD] RE: them spores



>I think folks arer assuming a lot about the spores of green algae and also
> the potential for them coming in from things other than the air from
> outside. Tracing the path would be difficult and rather tough to say.
>
> Nah, it's an all FS water.

No, thjis is patently not true, several sources had shown Caldophora can be
transported via air/wind to new locations. 
It does not have to be water born. That is an assumption.
You can belach and try to keep things out, nothing wrong with that if you
are able and willing to go through all that. It may prevent algae, we shall
see how long you last, you might be able to keep it out fro good, but
getting new plants, fish, a non sterilized net etc is all it takes.
Then there are other algae that have no trouble coming in via the air.    
I do not have  lot of trouble with Oedogonium, Caldophora or Rhizolclonium,
others might, I have been able to get rid of it by a very simple methods as
well. 

> >FYI, most all FW algae are cosmopolitian, except desmids.
>
> Nah, they're rural too. I've got a couple still. WTF does that mean Tom.

Wolrd wide, there is no local "Caldophora, Oedogonium etc, it's everywhere,
meaning it manage to spread to about every body of water on the planet.
Only the desmids seen to have regional habitats.   

> The snot algae seems to become green thread algae or perhaps it's just
> coincidence they're always together.

Snot algae?
A new one or a new term for something else?
Thread algae with diatoms covering it perhaps?

> The point I was trying to make earleir about bacteria and algae is the
> non-plant algaes are very sensitive to H202 and seem to be able to
permeate
> a plants tissues like, well, a bacterial infection. And must be treated
> as such - wash your hands welll, strilze nets, etc.

Well, I think the other plant like algae, the Greens are well suited to
this since the other algae are easier to deal with using good nutrients
alone. 

> Toms (Duplas? :-) mthos does indeed keep it under control very well BUT

Dupla's? Haha, I'm anti Dupla in many respects. 

> if I give a plant to somebody I don't want a sprwaling black hary
> mass to evolve from it; I want it eradicated not controlled.

Well then you need long term management for eradication if that is your
goal.
Control is much simpler, once stable, it's very easy to deal with. 
But you can do both. 

> On the H202 front - 2cc/gal for three days seems to systematically
> eradicate bacterial algaeas and hurts nothing else. 

Probably would do it. 

But that's in
> one of my tanks that's fairly bare - any other tank may react
> differently depending on how much organix matter there is to 
> break up the hH202.

Yep.

 Be careful! Certianly you would want to run a
> diamtom when you're doing this as it breaks up every little piece of
> crap eevrywhere and makes it float. Then you have the ammonia spike
> from all the dead algae - ammocarb fixes this.

I don't think that would occur, unless hyou have one very nasty algae
outbreak and don't remove any prior to treatment. 

I keep at least one fishless tank for torture.
I induced some green water but it's not in log phase growth yet.
I'll try 1ml/liter of 3% to see how it affects the alga.  

> If you just have small bits and pieces this will eradicate it. But
> whet you may find is, oh, say one lousy crypt leaf at the back
> thick with the stuff. You need to dose that directly with 5cc
> 4 x a day for one day to kill it (and leave the leav unharmed)
> THEN dose the tank again and it will be eradicated.

Yep, good advice, harass the hell out of the algae little by little and
that is a mean way to deal with them. 
Water changes and good nutrients will also go a long way, I pick, fluff,
preen, prune, trim and scrub mostly.
That often will cause the algae to go into shock and produce spores(often
within 2-6 hours) which are much more resistent. Torturing those spores
more and doing another water change can help or chemical measures like
H2O2. 

The other idea I have for H2O2, is a dosing pump and a redox controller.
This way a precise amount of H2O2 can be adminsitered. 
You could also use O3, ozone in this same manner and likely have the same
result.
Both decompose into O2/H2O etc.
Both are strong oxidizers. 

Ozone might be easier to use with a redox controller.
I used a redox/O3 unit years ago with a skimmer and FW. 

If I can locate a decent deal on one, I might give it a whirl.

While many of yuo like to use these things to kill algae, larger scaled
applications can be applied to kill weeds and algae blooms. 
But I have a better idea than either of these and better than herbicides
and I know it works wonders on algae while leaving plants alone. 
But it's not cheap. 

Anyway, you might consider getting some NH4 and a UV to play with if algae
torture is your thing.
A pair of fishless tanks are also a good thing for many reasons. 

Regards, 
Tom Barr


  




_______________________________________________
Aquatic-Plants mailing list
Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo/aquatic-plants