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[APD] RE: testing the Barr method and the Lazy boody method

> I'm in the process of setting up a number of 20 gallon tanks to test the
Barr Method. I'll be running 4 tanks the "Barr Way", and 4 tanks the "Lazy
Ass" way. In particular I'll monitor plant growth, fish health and algae
> In the end,  I'm trying to combine the two and develop the "Lazy Ass Barr
Method". This means I don't want to be mixing sugar and yeast, poking holes
in balloons or stuff like that. I'd much rather put the money down and buy
the right equipment.
> Since the "Lazy Ass" way never included larnin' 'bout nuttin' complicated
I'm struggling to make sure I properly understand how this C02 stuff works.
> At http://www.aquabotanic.com/abstore/en-us/dept_3.html they list a
product called, "Complete C02 system w pH controller". If I understand
things correctly, all I need is this system and a CO2 cylinder, and perhaps
some airline to run the CO2 from the regulator to the tank. Am I missing

Well sort of, you will need to make sure the thing is set up correctly, 20
gal tanks are easy to mix the CIO2 and get responsiveness from a dosing
system and a controller unit. If the KH varies, then the CO2 will also
change if you have a pH set point.
See the pH/KH table. Make sure you calibrate the probe and check it every
so often(monthly is good).

> At this point I'm very open to any other recommendations on how to put a
good C02 system together. The budget is less important than my time.

Well, I'd get a CO2 regulator, AQ's is good, and I'd get 8 Nupro needle
valves and make a 8 valve manifold for the CO2 reg.
Get some decent 100% silicone tubing.
Go to the BarrReport.com and see the 2$+ powerhead reactor, works as well
as anything you can buy and is very small and any one can use it.
Slap one in each tank.   

> Based on this system, what would be the recommended bubble count into a
20 gallon tank, and how many hours is the suggested CO2/Light period.
> Also, does anyone know any convenient ways to dose food accurately? Fish
food is likely to be the input that has the most potential for variance. I
would like to limit that as much as possible.

Auto feeders are fairly accurate.
20-60$ ranges

> Spencer

If I were you, based on your desire for a semi lazy approach, use less
light. I've been telling folks this for years now, so has Claus, George
Booth, Amano in a way.
Who else needs to tell folks before they get the message?
If you use 30 watts-40watts NO FL's lights, Tritons, e ballast, reflectors
etc, you can grow most any plant and perhaps get away with dosing only once
after the water change with a decent fish load.

Other wise a lazy way is to add 2 dosing pumps(one for macro';s and the
other for traces) and a timer to do the dosing for you all week.
Then all you do is refill for the ferts/fish food and a water change once a
Plants grow slower also with less light but still very healthy.

This allows you the most wiggkle room without going to non CO2.
I'd use flourite/mulm/peat, an internal reactor, 30-40w light, dosing once
maybe 2x a week or a dosing pump.
That would not need much work.     

Tom Barr

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