[APD] RE Power Compacts & Wtarproofing

["S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>]

Usually more than mere submersion is required, as Bob
points out, pressure is part of the rating, usually.

It can be even tougher, if you don't mind going off track
for an example: Water resistant wood glue must be able to
retain it's hold after being submerged and soaked for 4
hour, then dried for 19, repeat twice more, then test the
bond.

For waterproof glue, The water must be boiling for the 4
hour soak, again repeated twice more after 19 hour drying
periods. Technically, that test for "waterproof glue" is
called Type I Water Resistance.

And then, some materials will pass water vapor but not
liquid. Tyvek comes to mind, along with almost all wood
(even if finished), some ceramics and plastics. 

Whether water gets in or not isn't a simple it does or
doesn't question. It's really how much gets in under what
conditions over what period of time. Most claims of
waterproofness are claims or some degree of water
resitance.

sh


* Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 13:31:05 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> 
> I've seen lamp sockets presented as water-resistant but
> never waterproof. Waterproof sockets will be hard to
find.
> But some common sense can guide one a long way.
> 
> If the pins develop any corrosion, then they are probably
> getting too much moisture.
> 
> Scott H.

Like Scott said, you'll probably not going to find
"waterproof" sockets. 
The term "waterproof" indicates (at least in my profession)
that the 
product was tested submerged under water to a certain
depth, for a certain 
amount of time.  To pass, no water can enter the product. 

OTOH, "water resistant" products are tested in either a
high humidity 
environment, or an environment which simulates a rainstorm
and possibly 
driving winds.   

So, there's a big difference between the two. 

Bob Ashcraft


=====
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March 18-20, 2005
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