[APD] Re: 9325 Kelvin GE lights

["Giancarlo Podio" <gp at isaconsulting_com>]

They've been working well for me. They seem a little red when first
installed, specially if you're used to regular 5500-6700K bulbs like I was.
Reds stand out the best with this bulb and growth is great IMO.

Giancarlo Podio


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com>
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 12:05 PM
Subject: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 12, Issue 49


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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Adjusting.. not giving up.... (John Van Rees)
>    2. Mixing soil/OM and Flourite, EC, Florabase, Turface etc
>       (Thomas Barr)
>    3. 9325 K GE Bulbs (david)
>    4. RE: Re: CO2 for multiple tanks (Laith Arif)
>    5. Re: 9325 K GE Bulbs (S. Hieber)
>    6. Re: Other Substrates (S. Hieber)
>    7. Re: Adjusting.. not giving up.... (S. Hieber)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 21:16:48 -0700
> From: "John Van Rees" <revjohn at spiritone_com>
> Subject: [APD] Adjusting.. not giving up....
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Any recommendations on pressurized CO2 tank set up?
> Maybe going that way will help prevent the PH and CO2 swings.. and help me
> stay more stable.... probably cheaper than losing all the fish!
>
> Also... what about that Seachem stuff that is supposed to hold the PH at
> Neutral (7.0)? Any comments?
>
> Thanks
>
> John Van Rees
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 22:00:25 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Thomas  Barr <tcbiii at earthlink_net>
> Subject: [APD] Mixing soil/OM and Flourite, EC, Florabase, Turface etc
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
>
> Several folks have renewed interest in soil and other OM and many use sand
with these, but using flourite or the equivalents are a great improvement
over plain sand(which only adds physical space and much less cycling surface
araea and pore spaces etc).
>
> Over time, I think folk will realize the differences which are as great as
with plain sand/laterite mixes vs Flourite in both non CO2 and CO2 methods.
>
> Onyx+peat and mulm is still my favorite substrate. The only other thing
that might be added: Flourish tabs/leonardite. It's the densest stuff and
the finest grain and makes planting the easiest.
>
> I do not think folks will find any growth differences between any or the
porous substrates, the cost and the way they look to you is the main issue.
Some are light weight, I don't care for that, some are soft, I don't care
for that either. Other folks might not care or like it for other reasons,
but these are insignificant as far as growth and plant health etc, most
folks will be pleased with these.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Barr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 22:33:08 -0700 (PDT)
> From: david <hipchack at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] 9325 K GE Bulbs
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> These bulbs appear to be very popular today and with
> good reason. They grow plants great and bring out
> great color for your tank. Here are some posts
> concerning them on a plant forum:
>
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3719&highlight=9325
>
> Tony sets up great pictures comparing these lights to
> other bulbs on his beautiful tank. I am currently
> using 2x55w 9325k bulbs on my 75g tank along with
> 2x55w 10000k and love it. I wish I had pictures to
> share :(.
>
> It seems like any bulb can grow plants as long as
> there is enough of it. IMHO, I wouldn't be concerned
> with the type of light (ie K rating) but more with the
> amount of light that your plants are receiving. Almost
> all bulbs (except Actinics (?)) seem to provide enough
> light in the blue and red spectrums to grow plants.
> HTH,
>
> David
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 08:27:09 +0200
> From: "Laith Arif" <laith at swissonline_ch>
> Subject: RE: [APD] Re: CO2 for multiple tanks
> To: "'aquatic plants digest'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Oh believe me, my wife would notice it!
>
> :-))
>
> Laith
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Diane Brown [mailto:debunix at well_com]
> Sent: 24 August 2004 19:06
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> Subject: [APD] Re: CO2 for multiple tanks
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 24, 2004, at 11:03 AM,
> aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com wrote:
>
> > You simply need to daisy-chain multiple needle valves off a single
> > regulator.
>
> I am running 6 aquariums off one 20lb CO2 tank, 6 needle valves for
> each tank, using Dave's system.  Most people don't even seem to notice
> the green tubing snaking around the room unless I point it out to them.
>
> Diane Brown in St. Louis
> http://www.well.com/user/debunix/fish/fishIndex.html
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 03:27:16 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] 9325 K GE Bulbs
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Good points with which I do not disagree. But I would add a
> that most actinic types of power compact fluorescents
> probably yield plenty of light in the blue spectrum, which
> plants are "hapy" to get, but the overall amount of light,
> due to the lack of light in the yellow and red area of the
> spectrum means that such bulbs are not as effective, watt
> for watt, as "broad spectrum" or "triphosphor"  or
> "daylight" bulbs.
>
> Scott H.
> --- david <hipchack at yahoo_com> wrote:
>
> >
> > It seems like any bulb can grow plants as long as
> > there is enough of it. IMHO, I wouldn't be concerned
> > with the type of light (ie K rating) but more with the
> > amount of light that your plants are receiving. Almost
> > all bulbs (except Actinics (?)) seem to provide enough
> > light in the blue and red spectrums to grow plants.
> > HTH,
>
>
> =====
> Want to get dirty but stay clean?
>
> Diana Walstad, author of _Ecology of the Planted Aquarium_ will discuss
soil supplemented aquarium substrates at the 2004 AGA Convention.
>
> Convention Details/Registration at aquatic-gardeners.org & gwapa.org
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 03:49:08 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Other Substrates
> To: krisa at demilune_net, aquatic plants digest
> <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
>
> --- krisa at demilune_net wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have an opinion (should I have to ask?) on
> > Red Sea's plant substrate
>
> Nope.
>
> > or Eco-Complete?
>
> I find it works as well as Onyx or Flourite. In fact I set
> up two identical tanks, side by side differing only on that
> one had Onyx andone ahd Eco-C. The Eco-C is a darker color
> than Onyx, if you like something blacker. The pieces are
> sort round balls, while Flourite and Onyx are clearly
> created by fracturing. The Eco-C bits are of various sizes
> and the smaller ones tend to find their way to the bottom,
> leaving the largest pieces to cover the substate surface.
> they might be good or bad aesthetically, depending on
> individual tastes. It's probably good insofar as finer
> stuff staying on top might tend to "seal" the substrate.
> It's certainly unavoidable -- if the density is about the
> same, the smaller bits will find their way to the bottom.
>
> Regarding such stratification, it is one reason that mixing
> 1-2 mm sand with Flourite doesn't do much to diminish the
> appearance of Flourite, since despite any disturbances to
> the substrate, the sand finds its way back towards the
> bottom.
>
> I found that it's slightly easier to insert a plant into
> Onyx and have it stay in place than with Eco-C. But the
> diff is very small. I think that diff is due to Onyx being
> a finer sized material.
>
> Eco-C is essentially dustless if that's important to you.
> Personally, I don't find the dust that comes with Flourite
> and Onyx hard to deal with.
>
> > Also, what's
> > a good depth total for gravel on Fluorite?
>
> Often "about 3 inches" is recommended as a rule of thumb.
> However, in tank less than 30g, 3" might look like a bit
> much. I've used 1.5" in the 10-15g range, 3" in 30g, and
> 3"-6" in my 150g and haven't noticed any diff I could
> attribute to substrate depth.
>
> When planting a mature plant with a well developed root
> structure, the extra substrate depth makes it a bit easier
> to plant the plant. In a couple tanks smaller than 1g I
> have about 1/2", but the plants are very small and it
> doesn't take much substrate to hold them down. At that
> depth of substrate. The few plants I've tried in these mini
> tanks seem to do as well as they do in other slow growth
> tanks that are larger and have deeper substrate.
>
> Hope that helps at least a little,
> Good luck, good fun,
> Scott H.
>
> =====
> Want to get dirty but stay clean?
>
> Diana Walstad, author of _Ecology of the Planted Aquarium_ will discuss
soil supplemented aquarium substrates at the 2004 AGA Convention.
>
> Convention Details/Registration at aquatic-gardeners.org & gwapa.org
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 04:48:18 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Adjusting.. not giving up....
> To: John Van Rees <revjohn at spiritone_com>, aquatic plants digest
> <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Aluminum tanks are lighter so get one of those if you can.
> Refills cost much more, pound for pound, the smaller the
> tank, so get as large a tank as you can afford, can lift,
> and can fit in the space where you are going to keep it.
> For example. I pay $9.80 for a 5-pound refill and $10 for a
> 10-pound refill -- need I say more? Customaquatic.com sells
> excellent aluminum tanks (Catalina brand) for reasonable
> prices, but shop around for prices.
>
> You can get cheap regulators for about $30 and they will
> perform as well as expensive ones except the knob will have
> more stiction and be harder to fine tune -- but then, one
> shouldn't have to adjust the regulator very often once it's
> keyed in to a good working level -- what the level is
> depends on the rest of the set up. An example is this one:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47259
>
> but you'll probably have to make a trip to Home Depot for
> adapter fittings.
>
> You can get a real nice 2-stage regulator for several
> hundred dollars and be able to fine tune like a ham radio
> expert andrun your CO2 tanks down to virtually empty
> without any problems. Here's a really good one for about
> $350-$400 new:
>
>
http://www.scottecatalog.com/ScottGas/welcome.nsf/(EquipDetails)?OpenAgent&Equipment=RB2&Model=Regulator+Two-Stage+High+Purity+Noncorrosive+Model+211+Series
>
> But, as I said, the $30 one will work, as will the $40 an
> 450 and $60 ones.
>
> A bubble counter is a luxury and in any event not a
> substitute for using the CO2/pH/KH table.
>
> If you want easy rather than finding fittings to assemble
> everything, the Milwaukee regulator-solenoid-metering
> valve-bubble counter is probably the best bargain around.
>
> Ship around, but here's what it looks like:
>
>
http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/itemdetail.asp?itemid=CO-MKMA957US
>
> But if you only want a regulator and metering valve,then go
> to the Harborfreight.com address above for the "argon/CO2
> regulator and look around for a clippard metering valve.
> Customaquatic.com is still selling a decent solenoid for
> $28 -- a bargain you will probably only beat by going to
> Ebay and knowing what to look for. Of course, you can skip
> a solenoid and save even more money on your equipment
> purchases.
>
> If you have little carbonates in your water you might want
> to add some. Check out George and Karla Booth's excellent
> website for good info on doing that -- go to
> http://users.frii.com/gbooth/AquaticConcepts/
>
> and click on "Tech Brief: Cabron Dioxide"
>
> If you don't use a solenoid and run your CO2 24/7, your pH
> will probably "swing" only a total 0.2 units over the
> course of a day -- If it's about 6.6 in the a.am. when the
> lights come on, it will be about 6.8 deep into the lighting
> period.
>
> If you use a Milwaukee controller (and it's hard to find a
> reliable pH controller for a more reasonable price), the
> set points will allow for a "swing" of 0.2 units.
>
> If you have the solenoid connected to your aquarium lights
> timer (so the CO2 only runs when the lights are on and the
> plants are really hungry for it), I think you will still
> see a "swing" of about 0.2 units. I think using the
> solenoid and lights timer is a way to save CO2. With
> solenoids available for only $28 (or less on Ebay), you can
> save some money over a year or two. If you pay much more
> than that, the savings on CO2 might not be as great as the
> cost of the solenoid over the life of the solenoid. Of
> course, this depends on local CO2 prices.
>
> A pH controller's main benefit is that it helps satisfy the
> desire to have things that do stuff (more often referred to
> in the technical nomenclature by the term, "gadgets").
>
> If money is not very dear, get a controller and have fun.
> Btw, if money is not dear, then skip the clippard valve and
> get a Swagelok model
>
> If money is dear but you can afford the up front
> expenditure, get a bargain on a good solenoid and connect
> it to yor lights timer ans save on CO2 -- eventually the
> savings on CO2 will exceed what you paid for the solenoid.
>
> If money is very dear, skip the solenoid and just run the
> CO2 24/7.
>
> Solenoid or not, your plants won't give a good gosh darn
> one way or the other so just suit your personal
> preferences.
>
> Btw, if you have did money to burn, you could use the
> Clippard as an on/off valve and then in line after it
> install a Swagelok model B-SS4 Brass Very Fine Metering
> valve with the optional Swagelok model NY-5K-S S Series
> Metering Valve Nylon Vernier Handle Kit, all for only about
> $100 including shipping. A totally unecessary step up in
> quality, but with that particular Swagelok valve you'll be
> able to adjust the CO2 output with the precison of a
> diamond cutter and with the vernier scale, you can very
> reliably repeat settings just by using the dial markings.
>
> Good luck, good fun,
> Scott H.
>
> --- John Van Rees <revjohn at spiritone_com> wrote:
>
> > Any recommendations on pressurized CO2 tank set up?
> > Maybe going that way will help prevent the PH and CO2
> > swings.. and help me
> > stay more stable.... probably cheaper than losing all the
> > fish!
>
>
> =====
> Want to get dirty but stay clean?
>
> Diana Walstad, author of _Ecology of the Planted Aquarium_ will discuss
soil supplemented aquarium substrates at the 2004 AGA Convention.
>
> Convention Details/Registration at aquatic-gardeners.org & gwapa.org
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
>
>
> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 12, Issue 49
> **********************************************

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