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Re: [APD] RE: Non CO2 Barr method



 .
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Gilly Munavalli,MD,MHS
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gmunava at yahoo_com
gilly at derm_md
www.derm.md
http://my.derm.md

...... Original Message .......
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:32:03 -0400 "Thomas Barr" <tcbiii at earthlink_net> 
wrote:
>
>Andrew, 
>This is essentially the same thing Diana Walstad suggest.
>My only deviation is with the substrate, I use 1/2" peat and mulm with
>Flourite or Onyx has really proved wonderful in the non CO2 sets I've done.
>Otherwise, light is around 1-2 w/gal, generally I'll use a Triton(7200K), a
>small hagen HOB filter for current, lots of plants, a moderate fish load
>and feed them daily. I top the watwer off once a week and that's pretty
>much it except for the rare pruning. 
>I add ____a lot___ of plants from the start. This is the most over looked
>thing people do when starting a plant tank.
>I use easy to grow plants mainly and work the hard to grow species slowly
>once the tank has settled down. 
>
>My pearl grass looks as good as any I've ever seen in a CO2 tank for
>example. It does not grow fast but I'd still call it invasive. Egeria and
>other bicarb users will do well, moneywort, chains swords and a few red
>plants, E azurea, Lugwigia, Proserpinaca, hair grass, even Gloss etc will
>do well, growth is slow though so it takes awhile which is kinda nice.
>
>Pearl grass makes a super foreground plant in a non CO2 tank.    
>I might change the water once in 6 months, sometimes less. 
>
>Rather than havibng a flat plant only aquascape, adding some nice rock or
>wood will spices these tanks up and these decor items don't need pruned.
>Moss can work well in these tanks and adding amano shrimp/SAE's are very
>very useful since the algae grows slower also so the critters are able to
>do more damage.
>
>
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