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[APD] Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
I have two yoyo loaches that are moved regularly to any tank with those nasty pond snails. I leave them there for a few days after there are no visible snails (to get any newly hatched buggers) and voila! snail free tanks (until I carry more in on new plants.
--
Growing old is inevitable;
growing up is optional.
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Constant white haze (David Terrell)
> 2. How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? (Rod Gerrymander)
> 3. Re: Re: ich update (S. Hieber)
> 4. Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> 5. Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? -- or - Like some
> folks it's not that bubbles show up but that they won't go away
> (S. Hieber)
> 6. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19 (Nwwise01 at aol_com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 09:28:49 -0500 (EST)
> From: "David Terrell" <Dave at TerrellClan_com>
> Subject: [APD] Constant white haze
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
>
> Ok guys, it's been a few weeks now, and even though I still can't seem
> to get my CO2 levels up to where I'd like them, the PMDD Barr's style
> seems to really be working well.
>
> However, even after my plants got a foothold and the tank cleared way up
> (~90% clear) it only got so far before stopping. Now I constantly have
> a white haze in the tank, slight but noticable. I used my vortex last
> night after getting my pump back and went to bed with crystal clear
> water. Now I don't necessarily expect the tank to stay that clear, but
> I wouldn't think it's beyond reach since I have seen it that way in
> the past, long before I owned a vortex.
>
> Suggestions?
> Thanks
> -Dave T.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> A couple of days ago I setup my dream system. It uses
> two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> gallon planted tank.
>
> Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120
> gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had
> problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> a day.
>
> >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day,
> opposite schedule from the main tank. This tank is
> heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
>
> Finally it flows back into main tank. This is lit
> by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these
> flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
>
> My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> untreated. I need a system that can go without
> maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> going to make it.
>
> I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> them
> and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> inside the tubing.
>
> Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> siphons flowing?
>
> Thanks,
> Rod
>
> __________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:57:40 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: ich update
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Reports seem to vary as to the size of the Ich critter
> (anywhere from 10 microns to 100 microns and more). I think
> that, to get down to as fine a micron level as you need to
> filter out the waterborne-stage ich critters (a.k.a.
> tomites) a canister would clog up much sooner than a couple
> of weeks -- maybe before the day is over; maybe in a couple
> of days. And as it clogs, it won't be turning over much
> aquarum water. And if the filter doesn't turn over "all"
> the water often enough, some Ichies will always escape
> filtration. So you would need to change the material often.
>
> The Ichies (a.k.a trophozoites) will mature, leave the fish
> and settle in substrate (a.k.a. trophonts) and then
> produdce producing tomites until each one has gone through
> a full life cycle, which can be a couple of days to over a
> week, depending on temps. Three days to a week should be
> plenty long enough at tropical temps to filter out the
> trophs and break the life cycle. But I think a conventional
> canister filter, with a felt medium, is probably your least
> practical method of breaking the cycle.
>
> Scott H.
>
> --- "Byron J. Yu" <Byronjyu at hotmail_com> wrote:
> > Fundamentalist-type condemnations aside, I was thinking..
> > I remember
> > coralife makes these micron filter pads. Do you think it
> > would be
> > possible to stuff those in my eheim canister for a couple
> > of weeks and
> > filter the ick out?
>
>
> =====
> S. Hieber
>
> - - - - - - - -
> Amano Returns
> to the AGA Annual Convention
> Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
>
> __________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:24:59 -0800 (PST)
> From: xicotenco <xicotenco at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] Goldfish as snail control
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> Another great way to eradicate snail is by clown
> loaches. I don't know if the rest of the loaches
> family have develop test for snail to, my experience
> is that no matter how hard is your snails infestation
> 4 or 5 of them will take care of your snails prblem
> and they will not touch your plants.
>
> Saludos
> Mario
>
> __________________________________
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> Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:39:01 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? -- or - Like
> some folks it's not that bubbles show up but that they won't go
> away
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Couple of thoughts:
>
> A higher water flow will suck the bubbles out of the siphon
> tube.
>
> You might be able to use a TOM's/Oscar Water Lifter pump to
> suck the bubbles out of they accumulate enough stop the
> siphon. This pump can work with air or water and is used,
> e.g., on CPR overflows to prevent siphon loss -- in fact,
> CPR recommends them.
>
> Scott H.
> --- Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com> wrote:
> > A couple of days ago I setup my dream system. It uses
> > two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> > gallon planted tank.
> >
> > Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120
> > gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had
> > problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> > from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> > tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> > a day.
> >
> > >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> > also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> > people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day,
> > opposite schedule from the main tank. This tank is
> > heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
> >
> > Finally it flows back into main tank. This is lit
> > by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> > Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these
> > flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
> >
> > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > untreated. I need a system that can go without
> > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > going to make it.
> >
> > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > them
> > and this was surprizingly uneffective. With all the
> > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > inside the tubing.
> >
> > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > siphons flowing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
>
>
> =====
> S. Hieber
>
> - - - - - - - -
> Amano Returns
> to the AGA Annual Convention
> Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 11:42:23 -0500
> From: Nwwise01 at aol_com
> Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> In a message dated 3/7/2004 9:03:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com writes:
>
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 16:08:47 -0800 (PST)
> > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Peat in substrate -- Dirtless gravel
> > that's
> > replete without Peat
> > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >
> > I assume yo mena in the conventional sense and not for
> > investment. ;-)
> >
> > Mulm is known by the less technical terms "gunk," "crud on
> > the bottom," and "messy brown stuff (aka, MBS)."
> >
> > With an established aqaurium, you can get it from the
> > floss/floss substitue medium in the canister filteraned
> > from the sponge in any filter that uses a sponge. You can
> > siphon it from the gravel. The accumulation of MBS is the
> > reason one needs to vacuum occasionally; it is the essence
> > of vacuuming's purpose.
> >
> > If you vacuum with a python down the kitchen drain. Try
> > running the hose into a bucket instead.
> >
> > If you don't want to use all the water from vacuuming, let
> > the water sit a little while and the bulk of the material
> > will sink to the bottom. Then you can pour off most of the
> > water without loosing are that hard earn MBS.
>
> As a related side note:
>
> If you have any house plants, use this water to water them. It's better than
> Miracle Gro. I also use it to feed my compost bins.
>
> Nick Wise
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> *********************************************
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