[APD] Re: Green Algae, Vol 7, Issue 19

["Dave" <briandavefish at hotmail_com>]

Marek: Get a siamese algae eater and add micronutrients less frequently.
You bought the fluorescent light fixture from retail or you made your own. I
can't find a fixture that can hold 2 15W fluorescent lights for 10G tank.  I
have a 10G planted tank too, but only with 1 light. I would like to add a
6700K for better plant growth.

DC
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com>
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 8:59 PM
Subject: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19


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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. planting small foreground plants (Shireen Gonzaga)
>    2. Growing Glosso Update. (Byron J. Yu)
>    3. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 18 (Lief Brittan Youngs)
>    4. Red Sea Phosphate Test Kit (Billinet at aol_com)
>    5. Re: Red Sea Phosphate Test Kit (JOEL CLARK)
>    6. Re: Red Sea Phosphate Test Kit (S. Hieber)
>    7. Re: Re: Peat in substrate -- Dirtless gravel that's replete
>       without Peat (S. Hieber)
>    8. Re: Green Algae (revance at indiana_edu)
>    9. Strange nutrient absorption problem (Kevin Sheller)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 12:18:04 -0500
> From: Shireen Gonzaga <whimbrel at comcast_net>
> Subject: [APD] planting small foreground plants
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> Cc: Shireen Gonzaga <whimbrel at comcast_net>
>
> Hi ... I've been having a hard time planting small foreground plants
> like glosso because my fish keep uprooting them! Does anyone have
> creative ideas on how to secure them till a good root system has been
> established? The culprits are mostly flagfish, and I think some of the
> Aphyosemion australe are doing it too.
>
> Thanks,
>    shireen
>
> -------------------------
> Shireen Gonzaga
> Baltimore, MD
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 12:18:18 -0500
> From: "Byron J. Yu" <Byronjyu at hotmail_com>
> Subject: [APD] Growing Glosso Update.
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> It's been several weeks since I've asked for help about growing my
> glosso. I have to thank everyone, especially tom, for all the help.
>
> I got a pressurized co2 system finally, and added the recommended
> fertilizers (1.25 ml of kno3, .625 ml of k2so4m .01 ml of kh2po4, and 5
> ml of TMG, 2x per week), turned on both of my lights (130 watts in a 20
> gallon) and my tank has never been more beautiful! It's busting out! The
> glosso is growing amazing; I've never seen it have such thick and full
> leaves. And my other plants are totally benefiting too! My anubias has 3
> flowers blooming at the same time, and my Hydrocotyle's and lace plants
> are huge!
>
> I think it's been the co2 more than anything. There's such a big
> difference between having a diy co2 unit and having a real system! I
> can't stop staring at my tank in wonder. Totally worth the +$200 I've
> spent on the co2 system. Yeast sourced co2, even with my external
> reactor, just didn't cut it.
>
> I do have some additional questions for u guys though....
>
> 1. I thought my lace plant was an Aponogeton madagascariensis but I
> realize my lace plant has wider, bigger leaves. Anyone know what it
> might be?
>
> 2. Does my external co2 reactor with bio balls in it function as a
> biological filter as well? I mean, it has bio balls in it so bacteria
> can grow on them, but I wonder if all the co2 (just one bubble per
> second actually) affects that.
>
> 3. My fish have gotten ick! I don't have another tank to put them in,
> and I don't want to put any ick medicine cause of my plants and shrimps.
> My current plan, since my fish are only a school of 15 rummy nose, an
> otto cat, and a SAE, is to wait it out and see if they get over it or
> just let them die and then get new fish. Any other suggestions?
>
> 4. Even with all my fertilizer dosing and light, I don't have an algae
> problem. May seem weird that I'm concerned about this but I'm afraid my
> sae and ottocat are starving? I guess this is a good thing cause I have
> Cyperus helferi and I don't want algae growing on it, but does this mean
> I can dose more fertiler?
>
> Anyways, thanks everyone! As soon as my tank looks the way I want it to,
> I'll post picks!
>
> Byron
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 09:25:20 -0800 (PST)
> From: Lief Brittan Youngs <liefy at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 18
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> There is also a rule of thumb about wattage of lights for a tank. Most
tanks need anywhere from 1 watt/gal to 4 watts/gal. with longer tanks
needing closer to 3 and taller tanks needing closer to 1. You may decrease
the light to one light bulb. But less light means slower plant growth.
Personally I would get the algea eating fish and leave the lights alone. Or
you get a second tank and use the 10 gallon just for growing plants and only
have one or two algea fish in the 10 gallon.
>
> Lief Youngs
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 10:27:30 -0500
> From: "Marek"
> Subject: [APD] Green Algae
> To:
>
> I have 10 gallon planted tank with 2 x 15W fluorescent light
>
> one 6700K other 5500K. Gravel Seachem Flourite.
>
> Hagen Natural CO2 System one bubble per 3 sec.
>
> Fish are 5 cardinal tetras, 2 blue rams, 5 algae eaters, 2 Cory cats.
>
> My plants grow very well but I have problem with small hair like 0.5 cm
long green algae. I do change 15 % of water 2 times a week and add daily 5
drops of KENT Micronutrients.
>
> Can anyone can help me how to stop this algae.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++Lief Youngs++++++++++++++++++++
>    http://geocities.com/SouthBeach/Mansion/4739
>              Colorado State University
>           Bioagricultural Sciences major
>            Agricultural Business major
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> To give anything less than your best is to sacrifice the gift. -- Steve
Prefontaine
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.From quintin at mn_rr.com
Sun Mar  7 14:55:34 2004
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> From: "Quintin Holmberg" <quintin at mn_rr.com>
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> References: <20040306140424_3641.qmail at web14206.mail.yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Peat in substrate
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 13:53:24 -0600
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>
> how does one go about collecting mulm??
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 8:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Peat in substrate
>
>
> > The peat is sort of an instant mulm for a new tank. Tom's
> > measurement method is more than accurate enough. It doesn't
> > require some precise amount. cover the glass is plenty --
> > the water will find it -- the roots will find it. Ski it if
> > you want, it won't ruin your tank. Add mulm if you have it
> > but peat will do if yo don't have mulm.
> >
> >
> > Folks have used pure Flourite, Onyx, Eco-complete with
> > great success -- even starting a new tank without mulm.
> >
> >
> > Scott H.
> > --- John Wheeler <jcwheel76 at yahoo_com> wrote:
> > >>
> > > I agree. I doesn't take much. Further, if you don't
> > > add it yourself, the tank itself will add it via mulm
> > > over time. Adding peat, or any other other humus, will
> > > only speed along a natural tank maturing process...
> > >
> > > >
> > > Again, I agree. IMO, Clay products, including
> > > Flourite, turface, etc,  are woefully inadequate at
> > > delivering nutrients without help of strong humic
> > > substances like peat (etc) at tank set-up. Eventually,
> > > these products will be as good as any other via mulm
> > > and bacterial processes to unleash the goodies
> > > within...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > If somebody in the Vancouver area has
> > > > some Profile, I'd like
> > > > to take a look at it & we could even run some simple
> > > > tests to see how
> > > > much iron it solubalizes. The idea would be to mix
> > > > some with about 5%
> > > > peat by weight in a sealed jar of water & then test
> > > > iron levels after a
> > > > week.
> > >
> > > How do you propose to test this? Bioavailable Fe seems
> > > to be difficult to test for botanists and geologists
> > > in solution, so how do you expect to do so? If you
> > > can, why can't we? I'm not trying to be a smart-ass,
> > > either:)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > There are good reasons not to use fine materials
> > > > like vermiculite, clay
> > > > or dirt. The mess factor is a big one. If you have
> > > > chelated trace
> > > > nutrients, you really don't need to worry too much
> > > > about iron. On the
> > > > other hand, Tom has said that iron availability in
> > > > the substrate may be
> > > > a growth limiting factor when other nutrient needs
> > > > are taken care of.
> > >
> > >
> > > When did he say that?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > You have to ask yourself if you want to deal with
> > > > pruning or harvesting
> > > > a lot of plant material every week. You also have to
> > > > worry about certain
> > > > types of plants colonizing the entire tank.
> > >
> > > I'll take that problem any day:) Come up with a
> > > solution and you'll be a hero.
> > >
> > > Certain types of plants dominating is baloney. We, as
> > > aquarists, have way more to do with that than the
> > > aquarium conditions themselves....
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Steve in Vancouver where the sun is playing hide and
> > > > go seek with the
> > > > clouds but spring is definitely well under way.
> > >
> > > I love Spring, but football is on the way:)
> > >
> > > Best wishes,
> > > John Wheeler
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> > > http://search.yahoo.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
> >
> > =====
> > S. Hieber
> >
> > -  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
> > Amano Returns
> > to the AGA Annual Convention
> > Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
> >
> > __________________________________
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> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 15:56:32 EST
> From: Billinet at aol_com
> Subject: [APD] Red Sea Phosphate Test Kit
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> I recently purchased the Red Sea Phosphate test kit.  I chose it because
the
> colors on the chart were vivid and easily differentiated.
>
> I was disappointed to find that the test results didn't come close to
> matching the chart.  The colors on that ranged from bright yellow, for
zero ppm,
> through four blue greens, each obviously different from the others, to
dark
> purple.  The color that I received from the test was a pale blue that
didn't match
> anything.  I ran a second test, reducing the sample size by 50%, and I
still
> received a pale blue, although it was a little darker than the preceding
test
> result.
>
> A test of a second sample from a different source returned a very pale
green,
> which also didn't match anything.
>
> When I emailed Red Sea about this they sent a replacement test kit, but it
> produced the same result.
>
> Can anyone recommend a good, reasonably priced phosphate test kit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 14:05:10 -0700
> From: "JOEL CLARK" <clarkattack at msn_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Red Sea Phosphate Test Kit
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I have no news on phosphate tests but I wanted to share that I have been
quite disappointed with the Red Sea Freshwater Test lab I bought a month or
so ago.  I have a hard time with the pH and the Fe tests.  The colors do not
match their cards either.  I will be buying a pH probe in the near
future.....
>
> Joel
>   -----Phosphate Test Kit
>
>
>   I recently purchased the Red Sea Phosphate test kit.  I chose it because
the
>   colors on the chart were vivid and easily differentiated.
>
>   I was disappointed to find that the test results didn't come close to
>   matching the chart.  The colors on that ranged from bright yellow, for
zero ppm,
>   through four blue greens, each obviously different from the others, to
dark
>   purple.  The color that I received from the test was a pale blue that
didn't match
>   anything.  I ran a second test, reducing the sample size by 50%, and I
still
>   received a pale blue, although it was a little darker than the preceding
test
>   result.
>
>   A test of a second sample from a different source returned a very pale
green,
>   which also didn't match anything.
>
>   When I emailed Red Sea about this they sent a replacement test kit, but
it
>   produced the same result.
>
>   Can anyone recommend a good, reasonably priced phosphate test kit?
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 15:46:21 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Red Sea Phosphate Test Kit
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> If, by reasonably priced, you mean a kit that is fairly
> priced and works very well and eaasy to read, then you
> can't beat the LaMotte.
>
> If you meant relatively inexpensive, then go with the
> SeaChem kit.
>
> Scott H.
> --- Billinet at aol_com wrote:
> > I recently purchased the Red Sea Phosphate test kit.  I
> > chose it because the
> > colors on the chart were vivid and easily differentiated.
> >
> > I was disappointed to find that the test results didn't
> > come close to
> > matching the chart.  The colors on that ranged from
> > bright yellow, for zero ppm,
> > through four blue greens, each obviously different from
> > the others, to dark
> > purple.  The color that I received from the test was a
> > pale blue that didn't match
> > anything.  I ran a second test, reducing the sample size
> > by 50%, and I still
> > received a pale blue, although it was a little darker
> > than the preceding test
> > result.
> >
> > A test of a second sample from a different source
> > returned a very pale green,
> > which also didn't match anything.
> >
> > When I emailed Red Sea about this they sent a replacement
> > test kit, but it
> > produced the same result.
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a good, reasonably priced phosphate
> > test kit?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bill
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
>
>
> =====
> S. Hieber
>
> -  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
> Amano Returns
> to the AGA Annual Convention
> Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 16:08:47 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Peat in substrate -- Dirtless gravel that's
> replete without Peat
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I assume yo mena in the conventional sense and not for
> investment. ;-)
>
> Mulm is known by the less technical terms "gunk," "crud on
> the bottom," and "messy brown stuff (aka, MBS)."
>
> With an established aqaurium, you can get it from the
> floss/floss substitue medium in the canister filteraned
> from the sponge in any filter that uses a sponge. You can
> siphon it from the gravel. The accumulation of MBS is the
> reason one needs to vacuum occasionally; it is the essence
> of vacuuming's purpose.
>
> If you vacuum with a python down the kitchen drain. Try
> running the hose into a bucket instead.
>
> If you don't want to use all the water from vacuuming, let
> the water sit a little while and the bulk of the material
> will sink to the bottom. Then you can pour off most of the
> water without loosing are that hard earn MBS.
>
> Alternatively, you can take the floss or sponge from an
> established tank's filter and put in the filter of a new
> tank or even wring it into the aquarium and let the new
> filter collect it on it's own -- after all that's what it's
> paid to do.
>
> For those who want to collect MBS for investment reasons,
> your best bet is to check recent auctions at Sotheby's to
> see what the going price is for various types of MBS.
> Turnover tends to be high and margins are extremely narrow.
>
>
> Having said that, I'm sure it will soon show up on Ebay,
> but be wary of cheap knockoffs that don't really come from
> aquariums. I've seen some real 'non-aquarial MBS" on Ebay.
>
> Scott H.
> --- Quintin Holmberg <quintin at mn_rr.com> wrote:
> > how does one go about collecting mulm??
>
>
> =====
> S. Hieber
>
> -  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
> Amano Returns
> to the AGA Annual Convention
> Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun,  7 Mar 2004 20:20:15 -0500
> From: revance at indiana_edu
> Subject: Re: [APD] Green Algae
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I have heard that using lights with a color temperature of 5500K and less
> promote algae blooms. I have always used 6700K, so I don't have any first
hand
> experience, this is just what I have heard. Anybody have any experiences
to
> back this up or disprove it?
>
>
>
> Quoting Marek <marekpurgat at sympatico_ca>:
>
> > I have 10 gallon planted tank with 2 x 15W fluorescent light
> >
> > one 6700K other 5500K. Gravel Seachem Flourite.
> >
> > Hagen Natural CO2 System one bubble per 3 sec.
> >
> > Fish are 5 cardinal tetras, 2 blue rams, 5 algae eaters, 2 Cory cats.
> >
> > My plants grow very well but I have problem with small hair like 0.5 cm
long
> > green algae. I do change 15 % of water 2 times a week and add daily 5
drops
> > of KENT Micronutrients.
> >
> > Can anyone can help me how to stop this algae.
> >
> >
> >
> > Marek
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 19:58:07 -0600
> From: "Kevin Sheller" <kevmo at arenafan_com>
> Subject: [APD] Strange nutrient absorption problem
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I'm having some problems. Here's some stats before we get to the
problem...
>
> 75 Gallon
> 1 year and 1 month old
> 192 watts of standard fluorescents (two 3-bulb T8 hoods - I haven't
changed
> the bulbs yet)
> Medium-high fish load (12 large rainbows, 4 rosey barbs, standard algae
> crew)
> PH: 6.6 - 6.8 (canister CO2 -- haven't had to refill it yet)
> Nitrate: 17.6 ppm (I don't add any extra)
> Iron & Traces: TMG, 2-3 x per week
> Potassium: 1 teaspoon potassium sulfate, 2-3 times per week
> Phosphate: 1/8 teaspoon mono potassium phosphate 2-3 times per week
> Water changes: 40% once a week
>
> Plants: lots of the clover groundcover stuff (not glossostigma, the
> slower-growing, dark green stuff) Madagascar lace, apontageton ulvacius
> (which isn't growing well without jobe's sticks) lots of dwarf sag, some
> crypts, rotala macrandra (another that needs jobe's sticks) rotala
> rotundifolia, anubias barteri, giant hygro (which has just stopped growing
> altogether - not pinhole leaves - just stopped growing.)
>
> Problems: Plants don't seem to be absorbing the nitrate much. I don't have
> to add any, and it still seems to go up over time. Not as much pearling as
I
> used to have. The plants don't do as well unless I supplement with jobe's
> sticks... Today I'm starting to get a bloom (bacteria or algae - not sure
> which yet). The plants need SOMETHING they aren't getting, but I can't
> figure out what.
>
> Kevmo
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
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>
>
> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19
> *********************************************
>
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