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[APD] Re: Snails



What other ideas do you have? You might have ideas that no one has suggested yet. Only ideas so far are clown loaches, skunk botias, yo-yo loaches, and puffer fish. I am currently using the skunk botias but they are either not eating the snails or are very slow. For one reason or another I can't keep the other fish in my tank.
 
Lief Youngs
 

From: "Scott R.H." 
Subject: Re: [APD] Snails
To: aquatic plants digest 

Did you get the information you needed about snails? 
If not I have a few idea's. Like dojo loaches.

Scott R.H.

--- Lief Brittan Youngs 
wrote:
> Anyone have any good cheap solutions to getting rid
> of snails? I have tried the fish that are
> reccommended at the fish store.
> 
> Lief Youngs
> 
> 
> ++++++++++++++++++++Lief Youngs++++++++++++++++++++
> http://geocities.com/SouthBeach/Mansion/4739
> Colorado State University
> Bioagricultural Sciences major
> Agricultural Business major 
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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> the gift. -- Steve Prefontaine
> 
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 18:27:31 +0000
From: nickplummer at att_net
Subject: [APD] fish for small planted tank
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

Karen Randall wrote:
> Or think native! Alabama
> rainbow shiners, Okeefenokee sunfish and several others are outstanding fish
> that really have no place in a typical tropical tank, but will be start
> attractions in a small planted tank set up just for them.

My favorite native for a small tank is Heterandria formosa. Currently, I have them with neon tetras and cherry shrimp in a 20 gallon, but in the past, I kept a eight or ten in a 2 gallon tank. They're active, breed easily, and don't eat their fry. They may be hard to find at the lfs (check ghost shrimp tanks for stowaways), but they seem to be readily available from various online sources.

Nick
-- 
Nicholas Plummer
nickplummer-at-att-dot-net

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 12:50:46 -0600
From: "Gregg" 
Subject: [APD] Nitrates not being used?
To: "'aquatic plants digest'" 

Hello list, this is my first post.

Here's the deal: 75 gallon tank, 220watts of PC lighting, pressurized CO2.
Everything's been fine...the tank was started around Dec 29th, 2003...so
still 'young'.

Last 2 weeks I was religously testing nitrate and phosphate every other day,
and keeping nitrates at 20ppm and phosphates hovering around 1ppm. I dose
flourish at 5mL every 2-3 days as a trace mix, and 2mL of Iron every 2-3
days.

The last 7 days, my nitrates have stayed at 20ppm. Today they're at 40ppm!
Last water change was about 10days ago.

Why aren't the plants using up the nitrate like they did before? Do I have
too much DOC's in the water?

I should mention pH tested at 6.2, Kh at 8 degrees...so yes I have WAY too
much CO2, but I did fiddle with it the other day. Would too much Co2
(150ppm) cause plants to go into 'pause mode'?

High CO2/pH shift is prolly what killed my yo-yo loach yesterday :(

I do run CO2 24/7, but I may just buy a pH controller and hook up my
solonoid (milwaukee all in one unit).

Thanks!


--
Gregg
gstearns at neb_rr.com


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 11:57:29 -0800
From: "James Hogan" 
Subject: [APD] filtering a co2 tank
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

I am currently using a UG filter and a aquaclear 150, i want to add co2 to 
my tank. i am getting rid of the UG filter and replacing it with some sort 
of high efficiency Biofilter. i was wondering what type of filter would be 
best and most cost effective preferably DIY. do you think i should keep the 
aquaclear or will that make too much surface turbulance? i was thinking 
that i would use a DIY wet/dry trickle filter. i have most of the parts i 
would need for it around the house so it would only cost the media and the 
sump pump. Do you think the trickle filter would remove the co2 too fast? 
and do you think it would work alright if i injected the co2 into the sump 
instead of directly into the tank or will the pump moving the water into the 
tank cause the co2 to become lost.
thank you.

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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 15:54:06 -0500
From: revance at indiana_edu
Subject: Re: [APD] filtering a co2 tank
To: aquatic plants digest 

I am also setting up a new tank and am going to be using a wet/dry filter on 
it. Before deciding to do so I did a lot of reading up on trickle filters and 
loss of co2. I found a very interesting article

http://www.frii.com/~gbooth/AquaticConcepts/ Go to "Carbon Dioxide
Injection" in the navigation bar and then "Do trickle filters cause
lots of CO2 loss?"

Obviously this experiment is very specific to their setup... the loss of co2 
will depend a lot on your filter (how much co2 can escape from it). There are 
also people who have personal experience with trickle filters removing co2... 
so as far as I have found there is no "correct" answer.

The problem I see with using an aquaclear is that if you are not religious 
about topping off your water levels, you will end up with a lot of surface 
agitation, thus loss of co2. Aquaclears don't provide excellent bio 
filtration, but since this is a planted tank (depending on your bio load) you 
don't need all that much artificial bio filtration. A lot of people really 
prefer canister filters because they are airtight and don't cause much co2 
loss. And you can place the filter diffusor deep in the water so you don't 
have to worry about topping off your water levels as much as with the 
aquaclear (however with trickle filters the water level in the tank never 
changes). Obviously a canister filter is not very practical for diy... the 
easiest filter to diy is a trickle filter.

On my setup I plan to inject the co2 into the sump because I am striving to 
keep as many things out of the aquarium as possible. This is the main reason I 
really wanted to use a trickle filter. Surface turbulence in the sump shouldnt 
be a problem... trickling should end in the compartment where the bio media is 
(if the experiment above is correct the air should hopefully be saturated with 
co2 anyway) from that point to the pump it should be smooth water flow. If you 
have the co2 being injected "upstream" from the bio media compartment any 
agitation there won't effect your co2 injection. Even if there is co2 
outgassing in the bio media compartment... it's "downstream" from the co2 
injection. 

I am going to give the trickle filter a try and if I find that it causes too 
much co2 loss I will just switch to a canister filter, and unfortunately have 
to put all that ugly junk in the aquarium. As always, if anyone has any 
different ideas I would like to hear them.


Quoting James Hogan :

> I am currently using a UG filter and a aquaclear 150, i want to add co2 to 
> my tank. i am getting rid of the UG filter and replacing it with some sort 
> of high efficiency Biofilter. i was wondering what type of filter would be 
> best and most cost effective preferably DIY. do you think i should keep the
> 
> aquaclear or will that make too much surface turbulance? i was thinking 
> that i would use a DIY wet/dry trickle filter. i have most of the parts i 
> would need for it around the house so it would only cost the media and the 
> sump pump. Do you think the trickle filter would remove the co2 too fast? 
> and do you think it would work alright if i injected the co2 into the sump 
> instead of directly into the tank or will the pump moving the water into the
> 
> tank cause the co2 to become lost.
> thank you.
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. 
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2fjoin.msn.com%2f%3fpage%3dmisc%2fspecialoffers%26pgmarket%3den-ca
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> 
> 
> 



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 12:58:30 -0800 (PST)
From: "S. Hieber" 
Subject: Re: [APD] filtering a co2 tank
To: aquatic plants digest 

With a canister filter, the filter won't use up any CO2 at
all. A wet-dry, with a covered sump, will cost you as much
as half, unless you are already losing a lot of CO2.

CO2 is relatively cheap so it's a matter of choices.

Well planted aquaria aren't all that fussy aobut what
filter you use unless your tank is heavily loaded with
fish.

Scott H.


=====
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Nov 2004 -- Baltimore

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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 16:12:03 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jason Verch" 
Subject: Re: [APD] Micro plant tank ideas
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com


Thanks for all the input everyone. I think I've narrowed it down to two
paths..

1 - 2.5G as planned with no heater and white cloud minnows and shrimp.
2 - 5G with a heater and a few (3?) puffers and shrimp.

I'll let you all know how it goes. I think I'll stop by the LFS on the
way home and the decision might just be based on which tank they have in
stock since both seem like a fun project.

-Jason


------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 16:16:44 -0500
From: "Quinn, Sherry" 
Subject: RE: [APD] Micro plant tank ideas
To: "'aquatic plants digest'" 

If you go with option 2, I would get 5 dwarf puffers, as the smaller the
group the larger the tendency for aggression.

Good luck.
Sherry

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Verch [mailto:verch at panix_com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 4:12 PM
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Subject: Re: [APD] Micro plant tank ideas



Thanks for all the input everyone. I think I've narrowed it down to two
paths..

1 - 2.5G as planned with no heater and white cloud minnows and shrimp.
2 - 5G with a heater and a few (3?) puffers and shrimp.

I'll let you all know how it goes. I think I'll stop by the LFS on the
way home and the decision might just be based on which tank they have in
stock since both seem like a fun project.

-Jason

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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 14:51:59 -0700
From: "Nick Andrews" 
Subject: [APD] incandescent-replacement type fixtures
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

You can buy those cheapo aluminum clamp-on lights to use. Also, I have seen 
at Costco and on ebay some flo replacement-style lamps built as floodlights. 
Not sure about color temp, etc though.

I did buy one of those JEBO-brand compact 4x55W fixtures for $90 recently, 
before I saw the overdriving thread... It arrived and looks decent for a 
Chinese knockoff. Nice extruded aluminum housing. I need to replace the 
two actinic bulbs with more appropriate ones, however. It has twin 
switches, but only one power cord. Don't know if it's a single ballast or a 
pair of them. With dual switching, it could be separates or 2 of them on 
same circuit board. Will see how it fares long-term.

Nick A

The basic consensus is usually that it can be done, and that the cheap
lights will work, but they're not as good as a "real" linear PCF is in
terms of efficiency or light delivery to the tank water. If you're on a
tight budget, the incandescent-replacement type fixtures are definitely
worth a try, but if you're looking for the best performance or
electrical
and lighting efficiency from your system there are much better options
on
the market.

Since it sounds like you are planning to DIY your lighting, have a look
at
the linear PCF supplies available at http://www.ahsupply.com. Many on
the
list (including myself) have had very good luck with their equipment,
and
the prices are much better than the prebuilt assemblies the tank
manufactures sell.

-Bill

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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:56:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Passmore 

Subject: [APD] co2 into H.O.T. Magnum
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

Does anyone have an opinion on bubbling co2 into the intake on a HOT Magnum filter? Any problems or issues I should worry about? 

I'm thinking about putting a micro-bubbler on to make the bubbles as small as possible then let the intake suck them up and finish the job.

Your advice/opinions are appreciated.

Jon


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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:57:47 -0800 (PST)
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Subject: Re: [APD] incandescent-replacement type fixtures
To: aquatic plants digest 
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--- Nick Andrews wrote:

> 
> I did buy one of those JEBO-brand compact 4x55W fixtures
> for $90 recently . . .however. 
> It has twin 
> switches, but only one power cord. Don't know if it's a
> single ballast or a 
> pair of them. With dual switching, it could be separates
> or 2 of them on 
> same circuit board. 

The switches could be on the power supply line inside the
hood and before the ballasts. Don't usually have them on
the output side since it's higher voltage and arcing and
rfi is more likely. Of course, they could drop a capacitor
on the switches but that's an extra part and extra asembly.

Scott H.

=====
S. Hieber

- - - - - - - -
Amano Returns
to the AGA Annual Convention
Nov 2004 -- Baltimore

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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 14:14:18 -0800 (PST)
From: "S. Hieber" 
Subject: Re: [APD] incandescent-replacement type fixtures
To: aquatic plants digest 

There are more ballasts around then jsut a couple years ago
-- I mean around so you can buy them without buying a case.

The big makers, Slyvannia, Universal, Advance have all come
out with electronic ballasts for T5/PCs. They use IC chips
for programmed start and allow for dimming (with a
conventional wall dimmer no less among other methods) --
although dimming tends to shorten bulb life -- possibly
because the filaments are cooler and evaporate from a more
localized hot section of the filament.

They cost more than the instant start ballasts like the
reliable Fulhams. But slowly each should bring down the
price of the other.


Not really new, but in marketing terms for hobbyists
they're realtively new:

Sylvannia Qt1x54120PHO for 1 54 watt T5 or 55watt PC.
Sylvannia Qt2x54120PHO for 2 54 watt T5s or 55watt PCs.
Advance ICN-2S54-120V for 1 or 2 54 watt T5 or 55 watt PC
Universal B254UNV-D for 1 or 2 54 watt T5 or 55 watt PC

The bulbs burn a bit brighter with one than than two on the
last two ballasts. The Advance puts more distortion on
powerline.

Programmed start is not much of an advantage if your aren't
cycling the bulbs frequently. . However, if you're using
PCs elsewhere in your house, the bulbs will last longer
than with instant start so it's something to think about.

Fulhams have become pretty widely available. I'm sure these
ballasts will too before too long. Meanwhile you can
probably special order one form any electrical ssupply
house that deals in one of those brands of ballasts.

Of course, the easiest way to very good DIY lighting with
good parts, good prices and good instructions is the AHS
route.

Good luck, good fun,
--- Bill wrote:
>. . . 
> If you're on a
> tight budget, the incandescent-replacement type fixtures
> are definitely
> worth a try, but if you're looking for the best
> performance or
> electrical

=== message truncated ===


++++++++++++++++++++Lief Youngs++++++++++++++++++++
   http://geocities.com/SouthBeach/Mansion/4739
             Colorado State University
          Bioagricultural Sciences major
           Agricultural Business major 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To give anything less than your best is to sacrifice the gift. -- Steve Prefontaine

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