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RE: [APD] RE:non CO2 plant tank



> I have a 30W Interpet Triton bulb, am I going to have to get another
tube? 
> I can get a cheap Arcadia reflector. I am quite happy to stick with low 
> light slow-gro plants (Anubias?). (but I've got to have Amazon Swords 
> because they look cool)

No, easy faster growing plants are better, you can still have the Anubias,
but you can do well if they are overshadowed some etc.
I work these, java fern etc into darker areas after I've planted my
Moneywort, water sprite, Hygro, pearl grass, Hornwort, Crypts, moss,
hairgrass etc.
 
30W single Bulb?
This tank is how long?
I'm assuming the 25 gal to be a 25T and 2ft long.
2x20W would be ideal.

I think this tank is actually a 25 L, perhaps the same dimensions as a 29
gal, but a little shorter.
If so, you can use another bulb, maybe a 20w if it'll fit.
If you have a customer wood hood/box, you can raise the lights about 2-4
inches above the surface to lower the intensity and also to spread out the
light better so it'll have the effect of slight less light, so you can do
that with 2x30w if you wish.

Swords will work, look for small species of swords though.  
Crypts make a good substitute for swords plants and do well in non CO2
tanks.

This is one of the reasons Crypts were so popular back in the 1950-80's.

> I just vacuumed my 30l Goldfish tank (1 month after being set up) and got 
> basically NO mulm. How very depressing. The 25g tank is probably going to 
> have sand/laterite. Can mulm be manufactured? I don't fancy using fish 
> shop mulm (How can you quarentine mulm?)
> Ah well...

Mulm is mulm, I'd not worry about the source too much.
A new tank is not going to have much, ideally a tank 1-2 years old.
Friends, fellow hobbyist etc.Dirtly filter pads, etc also are a good source.

I would use the laterite.
But I'd also have at least 2-3cm of organic material, pre soaked potting
soil(3 weeks or so), peat, mulm in abotu equal proportions.
If you can get something else, like profile, Flourite, eco complete, onyx
sand etc, that would be better than sand. 
Top the layer with 7-12cm of sand.
I know Dennerle sells something over there that is decent and similar,
maybe there is another company also. Anything with iron already in the
stuff and somewhat porous. 

You also might try this board since it has so many from Britian. 

http://www.tropicalfish.site5.com/tfc/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=11

This will be a good place to find local resources for substrates, plant
trades, products, LFS's, bash on Yanks, whatever. 

> This really does sound like just the solution for me (low maintenence!)
> Someone should make an online 'find-your-method', where people input
their 
> tank size, and what they want (high/low growth/maintenence, high/low
tech, 
> CO2/non-CO2 etc.) and get a computerised method like those weighing
scales 
> that tell you what you should weigh. :)

Well, perhaps later when I get that book thing I'll something to offer.
But for now, the APD is about the best place to get some feedback on
methologies. 

Main thing is to figure out what routine you will do and be happy with. 

The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad is a good book for
this method. It's a bit of heavy read, many CO2 users try to mix methods
from this approach but care and forethought are needed when doing this.
But if you stick with not using any carbon enriched methods, using liquid
Carbon supplements like Excel is not along the same lines, you will fair
better than many CO2 users think.
The beauty in this method is the long term look and ease of mainteance.
Some feel guilty for doing so little.
 
Regards, 
Tom Barr
 

> -- 
> Andrew McLeod
> thefish at theabyssalplain_freeserve.co.uk




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