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[APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 53



Right now I have two anubias flowering and it happens quite often.

aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com wrote:

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> than "Re: Contents of Aquatic-Plants digest..."
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re:Flowering Anubias barteri (Robert H)
>    2. surface algae (Karen Randall)
>    3. surface green slime algae  (boolybooly)
>    4. Re: Wet/Dry Filtration (Phil Edwards)
>    5. SV: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 52( hey there from
>       denmark) (Tanja, Madeline & Sergej)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 01:07:55 -0800
> From: "Robert H" <robertph3 at comcast_net>
> Subject: [APD] Re:Flowering Anubias barteri
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> >>A few weeks ago, I noticed that my Anubias barteri was putting up a flower
> stock - Great!  Well now, it's open, except it's still about 6" underwater.
> I thought the whole point of a flower was to get above the water.  Of
> course, I have absolutely no experience w. this speceis (have had Apon's
> flower many times).
>   So what is the protocall now?  It's a white 'flower pod' coming out of a
> cup-shaped leaf.  I am planning on just doing nothing and seeing what
> happens, but if there is anything else that I could be doing to maybe
> propigate it, please let me know.<<
>
> It will last a few days and then die off. Anubias is one of the few plants
> that will often flower under water, but it is not really meant to. It can
> not pollinate under water. Anubias grows in shallow water and most often
> with only its feet in the water.  Enjoy it while it lasts!
>
> Robert Paul Hudson
> www.aquabotanic.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 07:08:30 -0500
> From: "Karen Randall" <krandall at rdrcpa_biz>
> Subject: [APD] surface algae
> To: <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
>
> tsuh yang wrote:
>
> >>does anyone know what the surface green slime algae is and how to get rid
> of it?<<
>
> I assume you mean floating on the water surface?
>
> I had this problem in one of my tanks for many months.  I have always been
> able to manage my way out of algae problems without extraordinary means, so
> I found this one very frustrating.  It had developed during a period of
> neglect, but when I DID start taking care of the tank correctly, it didn't
> subside.  I would remove the scum from the surface several timesa week, and
> still it would return.  I tinkered with the nutrient mix, and that didn't
> help either. (all the plants were growing very well during this time, BTW)
>
> Then in the spring, I was leaving for Europe for 3 weeks.  I was afraid that
> without my constant intervention during that period, the scum would get thik
> enough to keep light from the plants, or even suffocate the fish.  As a last
> ditch effort, I manually removed as much as possible, and then set up a
> powerhead blowing right across the surface.  I also increased the CO2 enough
> to make up for the fact that I was blowing some off.  When I returned, there
> was no sign of the algae, and everything looked great, if a bit overgrown.
> The algae has never returned.
>
> This is my first encounter with this type of algae in an aquarium (it is
> fairly common in garden ponds) so I can't tell you if there are other
> effective means of dealing with it.  But I can tell you for sure that
> dramatically increasing surface movement definitely works in my case.
>
> Karen
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 12:43:00 -0000
> From: "boolybooly" <boolybooly at ntlworld_com>
> Subject: [APD] surface green slime algae
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Subject: [APD] surface green slime algae
>
> > does anyone know what the surface green slime algae is
> > and how to get rid of it?
> >
> >
> > tsuh yang
>
> I dont know but I would also like to know.
>
> I have an outbreak of green slimey algae which also gathers on the leaves
> and very fine filaments float in the water. I have reduced light and am
> syphoning it off where it settles in the hope it will grow itself to a
> standstill as most algae does in the end if you are careful with nutrients.
> I have also added some hornwort to the tank which seems to help a bit unless
> I am imagining it. I think the change of season plus a complete replant of
> the tank caused my outbreak. I always have some sort of algae, I just try to
> balance it so it is a type I can remove easily in handfuls by leaving the
> stuff that is easy to remove and removing the algae which is hard to remove.
> Then they compete and the easy stuff wins as there is more of it and it
> covers all the surfaces, but then I have an easier life !
>
> Richard
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 07:55:01 -0500
> From: "Phil Edwards" <biotypical at hotmail_com>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Wet/Dry Filtration
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> I'm not sure who started the thread, but to answer your question; yes, it's
> entirely possible to use a Wet/Dry in a planted tank.  Scott's link to
> George's website is the best statistical info you'll find on CO2 and
> Wet/Drys, I highly recommend reading it.
>
> That link again is: www.aquaticconcepts.thekrib.com
>
> I've been using W/D for my 90g for over a year in one form or another.  At
> first I made one like Tom did, out of a rubbermaid container and a 20 long
> aquarium.  The biotower worked well, but my CO2 injection system was pretty
> crude (tube right into the main pump) and I chose to upgrade when I moved.
>
> Wet/Dry in a planted tank.  Scott's link to George's website is the best
> statistical info you'll find on CO2 and Wet/Drys, I highly recommend reading
> it.
>
> That link again is: www.aquaticconcepts.thekrib.com
>
> I've been using W/D for my 90g for over a year in one form or another.  At
> first I made one like Tom did, out of a rubbermaid container and a 20 long
> aquarium.  The biotower worked well, but my CO2 injection system was pretty
> crude (tube right into the main pump) and I chose to upgrade when I moved.
>
> After the move I drilled a few holes and added a few glass panes to the 20L
> and was able to make a self contained W/D that I could cover with glass.  A
> few pieces of duct tape around the edges created a sealed filter.
>
> http://home.carolina.rr.com/carolinaaquasys/Main-Sump.jpg
>
> If you look carefully at the top of the bulkhead you can see an air bubble.
> I found out, much to my dismay, that a lot of air gets sucked down into a
> W/D along with the water so I had to make a standpipe/gas diverter to
> minimize agitation.  Which brings be to your question/comment regarding
> injecting O2 into your sump there's no need.  Due to the nature of an
> overflow and drainage it's impossible to maintain a syphon without it
> drawing air as well.  There has to be a flow of air into and out the system
> as well for the water to drain into the sump.  That suction intrinsically
> brings O2 into the sump system.  It's also important to consider that water
> in a healthy planted tank is going to be high in dissolved O2 as well and
> that our plants really are our main biological filtration.
>
> Best,
>
> Phil Edwards
> Charlotte, NC
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> See when your friends are online with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now
> FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 14:37:50 +0100
> From: "Tanja, Madeline & Sergej" <pedersenogmadsen at mail1_stofanet.dk>
> Subject: [APD] SV: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2,        Issue 52( hey there
>         from denmark)
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Hey all you aqua plant folks,
> I have a simple question for you, I have seen so many beautiful aquariums,
> where a planting plan has ben used. Any of you that now a good book the
> treats this? Or a good website to look up for me? I have aqua scaped for
> about 5 years but it would be nice with some fresh input. :-)
>
> Bed regards,
>
> Sergej
>
> -----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
> Fra: aquatic-plants-bounces at actwin_com
> [mailto:aquatic-plants-bounces at actwin_com] På vegne af
> aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com
> Sendt: 26. oktober 2003 09:12
> Til: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> Emne: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 52
>
> Send Aquatic-Plants mailing list submissions to
>         aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         aquatic-plants-owner at actwin_com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Aquatic-Plants digest..."
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Flowering Anubias barteri (J Miller)
>    2. RE: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium? (David Nesom)
>    3. Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests (Wright Huntley)
>    4. Yellowing of leaves (e. tenellus (David Nesom)
>    5. RE: Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests (Phil Bunch)
>    6. Re: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium? (S. Hieber)
>    7. Re: Akadama (Dave Gomberg)
>    8. surface green slime algae  (piaba)
>    9. Re: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium? (Clint Brearley)
>   10. Apo. undulatus bleaching (Seweryn Bialasiewicz)
>   11. Re:Algae Eating Shrimp Eating  (Billionzz at aol_com)
>   12. Re: Re: Akadama (guillaume)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:06:49 -0700
> From: "J Miller" <jvision at telus_net>
> Subject: [APD] Flowering Anubias barteri
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Cc: Steve Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
>
>   A few weeks ago, I noticed that my Anubias barteri was putting up a flower
> stock - Great!  Well now, it's open, except it's still about 6" underwater.
> I thought the whole point of a flower was to get above the water.  Of
> course, I have absolutely no experience w. this speceis (have had Apon's
> flower many times).
>   So what is the protocall now?  It's a white 'flower pod' coming out of a
> cup-shaped leaf.  I am planning on just doing nothing and seeing what
> happens, but if there is anything else that I could be doing to maybe
> propigate it, please let me know.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jason Miller
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 12:11:06 -0400
> From: "David Nesom" <david at nesom_net>
> Subject: RE: [APD] Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium?
> To: "'aquatic plants digest'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Dwight Wrote:
>
> > "I am curious ...how can Wet Dry filters be used in planted aquaria
> > w/o the coresponding waste of Co2?"
>
> A while back I was looking at an Eheim 2227 canister w/built in wet dry. I
> haven't purchased this because I just don't have the money right now and
> it's a want not a need. Nonetheless, I think this might be worth a look for
> you. I haven't used the filter personally but it appears as though the
> wet/dry is enclosed within the canister assembly and *probably* wouldn't
> lose too much co2? Especially if your reactor is on the output side of the
> canister.
>
> Personally, I'd like to try this filter for myself as I was considering
> removing the biowheels from my tank. (for aesthetic purposes only--I
> currently only use about one 10# co2 bottle per year with the wet/dry which
> I find acceptable...) I carry a pretty heavy fish load though and am
> concerned about removing the biowheels without a suitable replacement.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Dave
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:31:09 -0700
> From: Wright Huntley <whuntley at verizon_net>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests
> To: Aquatic PlantsDigest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> AFAIK, none of the modern chloramine "removers" can be used with any
> Nesler's-reagent ammonia test. All will give false positives, I think.
> [See the "Amquel" literature for details.]
>
> Try the same test using a salycilate ammonium test and see if
> ammonia/ammonium isn't below detectable levels.
>
> 2ppm of ammonia is deadly to nearly any fish. Just be sure your pH is
> low until you have an answer, so most of it is as NH4, if it is really
> there. [I suspect it isn't.]
>
> **************
> A small side issue: Nesler-reagent tests are not nearly sensitive enough
> to tell you when potentially lethal amounts of ammonia (0.01 ppm) are
> present, but they are a particularly nasty environmental hazard. Don't
> throw that mercury compound down the drain, but dispose of it properly
> at your local recycling center. OK?
> *************
>
> Wright
>
> > Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 17:21:01 -0700
> > From: Phil Bunch <pbunch at cox_net>
> > Subject: [APD] Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests
> > To: "'aquatic-plants at actwin_com'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >
> > Can using Ammo Lock cause artificially high ammonia tests? I understand
> > that it causes the NH3 to be converted to NH4 and hence tests may not
> > decline immediately. My ammonia test this afternoon reads 2 ppm which is
> > causing me some concern even though the ions should all be in the NH4
> from.
> > The fish show no signs of distress,  they have very good color, no gill
> > rubbing and no other symptoms. Also nitrite is testing at or very near
> > zero. The water smells good. I'm going to do a 50% water change and add
> > some Bio-spira.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Phil Bunch
>
> --
> Wright Huntley -- 760 872-3995 -- Rt. 001 Box K36, Bishop CA 93514
>
>             Mencken's maxim?every election is a sort
>               of advanced auction of stolen goods.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 13:37:49 -0400
> From: "David Nesom" <david at nesom_net>
> Subject: [APD] Yellowing of leaves (e. tenellus
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> In my 72G over the last two weeks I have had some problems with only a small
> section (6 square inches or so) of e. tenellus. This started when I uprooted
> some crypts right in that area of the tank. I think there may have been a
> flourish tab under the crypts that got broken up and released into the water
> column.
>
> Anyway, first, the leaves of only the e. tenellus got covered in algae only
> in that area. After about a week of this the older leaves started to yellow
> and now they're falling off at an alarming rate. I have vacuumed the gravel
> in the area several times and done a few 30% percent water changes  in the
> past few weeks but am noticing no improvement yet. Any ideas on what could
> have caused this  and some corrective measures? I find it odd this is
> isolated to this small are of the tank...
>
> Water parameters currently:
>
> ph: 6.7
> kh: 5 dkh
> gh: 3 dgh
> nitrates: 2ppm
> Fe: undetectable
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 12:29:42 -0700
> From: Phil Bunch <pbunch at cox_net>
> Subject: RE: [APD] Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests
> To: "'aquatic plants digest'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Cc: "'african_cichlids at yahoogroups_com'"
>         <african_cichlids at yahoogroups_com>
>
> Wright:
>
> It turns out that the kit I'm using is a salicylate reagent product
> (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals). It however indicts that it tests for both NH3
> and NH4. It also indicates that "Ammonia test kits will still test positive
> for ammonia..." even when Ammo Lock is used. I suspect the ammonia is all
> in the NH4 form or as you say the fish would be dead or totally stressed.
> It may be that I will just have to wait for the NH4 to be processed through
> the bio-filter.
> Phil Bunch
>
> On Saturday, October 25, 2003 10:31, Wright Huntley
> [SMTP:whuntley at verizon_net] wrote:
> >AFAIK, none of the modern chloramine "removers" can be used with any
> Nesler's-reagent ammonia test. All will give false positives, I think.
> [See the "Amquel" literature for details.]
>
> Try the same test using a salycilate ammonium test and see if
> ammonia/ammonium isn't below detectable levels.
>
> 2ppm of ammonia is deadly to nearly any fish. Just be sure your pH is
> low until you have an answer, so most of it is as NH4, if it is really
> there. [I suspect it isn't.]
>
> **************
> A small side issue: Nesler-reagent tests are not nearly sensitive enough
> to tell you when potentially lethal amounts of ammonia (0.01 ppm) are
> present, but they are a particularly nasty environmental hazard. Don't
> throw that mercury compound down the drain, but dispose of it properly
> at your local recycling center. OK?
> *************
>
> Wright<
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 12:37:56 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium?
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> Yove too cover the bio chamber and the overflow too if it's
> a box type rather than a built-in.
>
> You'll still get plenty of O2 for the bacteria and from my
> experience, about double your CO2 use.
>
> I believe George Booth still has data posted on his web
> site with meaurements with and without a wet-dry.
>
> http://aquaticconcepts.thekrib.com/
>
> You might have to search around, but it's a nice site to
> wander around on.
>
> Scott H.
> --- Dwight <boukmn at mindspring_com> wrote:
> > I am curious ...how can Wet Dry filters be used in
> > planted aquaria w/o the
> > coresponding waste of Co2?  As I understand it, by their
> > very nature W.D.
> > filters  will vent Co2 gas to the atmosphere.
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
> http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 13:55:33 -0700
> From: Dave Gomberg <dave1 at wcf_com>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Akadama
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> At 09:07 AM 10/25/2003, "guillaume" <kerry_gui at free.fr> wrote:
> >i want to know if i can use Akadama (clay bonsaï soil) for my substrate:
>
> Bill, Akadama and Profile (Turface) are nearly identical.   The Profile is
> a little harder fired, not quite as soft and crumbly.   Akadama is very
> expensive here.   What do you pay in FR?  Here Turface is about 7
> Euros/22Kg.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 14:27:59 -0700 (PDT)
> From: piaba <piabinha at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] surface green slime algae
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> does anyone know what the surface green slime algae is
> and how to get rid of it?
>
> tsuh yang
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
> http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 10:04:27 +1100
> From: Clint Brearley <clint_brearley at telstra_com>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium?
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> Well, if the plants are growing well, the water coming into the filter will
> be saturated with oxygen (and the O2 *needs* to be dissolved for the
> bacteria to be able to utilise it). But the limiting nutrient for the
> bacterial population size would be ammonia anyway, not oxygen. In fact for
> any sort of biological filter, theoretically, oxygen and surface area for
> bacterial attachment only need to be in slight excess of the ammonia supply
> for the filter to function effectively. The extra surface area and oxygen
> offered by a conventional wet-dry just adds extra redundancy to the system.
> Of course if you continually increase your bioload (gradually), you increase
> ammonia supply, and eventually either oxygen or surface area will be the
> limiting factor and you end up with accumulation of detectable levels of
> ammonia and/or nitrite. However, it gets more complicated in a planted tank
> cause plants use up the ammonia as well.
>
> So in a CO2-injected planted tank, a wet-dry may not offer the same benefits
> as in a fish only tank, the extra biological filtration capacity is probably
> not needed anyway. High fish loads would probably result in severe algae
> outbreak long before ammonia accumulation became a problem. But they do have
> other benefits (hiding equipment etc) which a lot of people like. As for
> sealing them, well I don't think lack of gas transfer with the air would be
> a major problem for a plant tank. At the end of the day it comes down to the
> opinion of the individual aquarist. CO2 gas is cheap, but having to refil
> regularly can be annoying so sealing the wet-dry can be an attractive option
> to some.
>
> Clint Brearley
> Melbourne, Australia
>
> > I am curious ...how can Wet Dry filters be used in planted aquaria
> > w/o the
> > coresponding waste of Co2?  As I understand it, by their very
> > nature W.D.
> > filters  will vent Co2 gas to the atmosphere.  In order to grow
> > the massive
> > bacterial colonies that make WDs more effective, there needs to be
> > mixingwith outside oxygen at the high surface area filtration
> > medium.  This is
> > where Co2 loss takes place.
> >
> > Assuming you somehow encase this part of the filtration chamber
> > from the
> > outside air, how do you maintain high bacteria counts to keep the WD
> > effective?  In a sealed chamber, is it not logical to assume there
> > will be
> > a coresponding massive drop in bacterial growth to levels more
> > akin to
> > those of a canister filter since there is no longer oxygen enrichment
> > taking place?  If this is the case, I don't see why castrating a
> > WD to get
> > it to work w/ Co2 injection is true progress.
> >
> > As I understand it, only by injecting enriched oxygen into a
> > sealed WD
> > chamber can one hope to maximize WD filtration and not waste Co2.
> > Comments?
>
> ----------------
> Powered by telstra.com
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 23:24:35 +0000
> From: "Seweryn Bialasiewicz" <s_bialasiewicz at hotmail_com>
> Subject: [APD] Apo. undulatus bleaching
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> Hello all,
>
> Quick question about the bleach treatment. Can Apo. undulatus stand the
> standard 1/20 bleach solution dip? Say.. 2 minutes? Also, when I plant it,
> should I leave most of the tuber exposed?
> Cheers,
>
> - Seweryn
>
> PS- cloudy milky water is now definitley green.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> ninemsn Premium transforms your e-mail with colours, photos and animated
> text. Click here  http://ninemsn.com.au/premium/landing.asp
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 22:08:34 EDT
> From: Billionzz at aol_com
> Subject: [APD] Re:Algae Eating Shrimp Eating
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
>
> >>>I wonder at what size they start breeding.  I would love to breed them
> and
> release them to my main display tank.<<<
>
>  The females seem to start holding eggs when they are a deep red and a thick
>
> 3/4'' in length.
>
>  I don't do any thing special they just seem to breed very easy. I do add a
> drop of iodine used for marine tanks at each water change. I don't really
> know
> if this helps but it was suggested to me and I figured it couldn't hurt.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 09:05:13 +0100
> From: "guillaume" <kerry_gui at free.fr>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Akadama
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> hi, Dave
> in france we don't have any Turface or Profile so it's because that i want
> to use Akadama(i have a rest, approximatively 500Gr and the Akadama i have,
> don't break in water(i have tested ;) )
> in france some people try kitty litter but some have problem with hardness
> and ph value(it drop dramaticly!!!)
> in france Akadama is about 12 euros 10kg it depend on the quality(soft or
> hard)!
> and for my own micronutrients mix when compounds are dissolved in distilled
> water, what is the shelf life of the Solution???
> Will
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Gomberg" <dave1 at wcf_com>
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:55 PM
> Subject: [APD] Re: Akadama
>
> > At 09:07 AM 10/25/2003, "guillaume" <kerry_gui at free.fr> wrote:
> > >i want to know if i can use Akadama (clay bonsaï soil) for my substrate:
> >
> > Bill, Akadama and Profile (Turface) are nearly identical.   The Profile is
> > a little harder fired, not quite as soft and crumbly.   Akadama is very
> > expensive here.   What do you pay in FR?  Here Turface is about 7
> Euros/22Kg.
> >
> >
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> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
>
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> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 52
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> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 53
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