[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1577

--- Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com> wrote:
> Aquatic Plants Digest   Wednesday, January 30 2002   Volume 04 :
> Number 1577
> In this issue:
> 	Re:  Re: Re: Battle plan
> 	Re: What type of plant to hide a filter?
> 	Re: Tom Barr's CO2 Reactors
> 	Re: screw-in CF's
> 	Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1576
> 	DIY CO2
> 	Re: Echinodorus 'compacta'
> 	Heteranthera z. aka "Stargrass"
> 	Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1576
> 	RE: eusteralis stellata
> 	Re: Eclipse 12 (was Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1573)
> 	Cardinals and Neons
> 	Let's Talk About Enemas...lol
> 	Satisfaction?
> 	Re: Adjusting pH w/SeaChem products
> 	RE: Cardinals and Neons
> 	Stargrass
> 	OT: Limia vitatta wanted
> 	OT: Limia vitatta wanted
> 	Re: adjusting pH with Sea chem buffers
> 	Officially delurking, plus Anubias and water parameter questions
> 	RE: DIY Surface Extractor
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 01:15:15 -0800
> From: "Robert H" <robertph3 at attbi_com>
> Subject: Re:  Re: Re: Battle plan
> >>> Speaking of Co2 , I came across your external reactor on
> Aquabotanic(?)
> > and now I really really want one- but you can only purchase it in
> the
> > USA. I found it on another site- acrylics and stuff and wrote to
> them to
> > find out if they sell international but didn't receive a reply so I
> > assume that they don't either.<<
> Actually, if you had asked me a couple of weeks ago, I would have
> sent you
> one. All gone now. I can ship anything under 4 pounds other than
> plants and
> fertilizers to basically anywhere in the world.
> Robert Paul Hudson
> http://www.aquabotanic.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 01:35:57 -0800
> From: "Robert H" <robertph3 at attbi_com>
> Subject: Re: What type of plant to hide a filter?
> >>The filter is a bit of a mystery unfortunately.  It is sold at my
> with the little so-called "Palm Aquariums" though it is not made by
> the same
> company.  The writing is all in what I'm guessing is Japanese, right
> down to
> the barcode!<<
> Palm aquariums are put out by AZOO, which is a Taiwanese company.
> Kinda
> their version of Aquababies I guess.
> >>Surrounding that will be a piece of
> round cork bark, carved until it's as thin a shell as I can make it
> without
> compromising integrity.  This will then have several holes and slots
> drilled/dremmeled, sawed into it in inconspicuous places, be
> siliconed into
> place and planted.<<
> Corkbark is very brittle and crumbles very easily. You can make it
> more
> pliable by soaking it in water for a few hours, however it should be
> dry
> when applying silicone to it. I have never tried to drill it, let me
> know
> how that goes!
> When I buy corkbark, its  curved from the tree. For my purposes, I
> try and
> flatten it out as much as possible to use it as a tank backdrop. I
> soaked it
> in a bathtub for a couple of hours, then pressed it flat and laid a
> ton of
> heavy books on it for 48 hours. After this time it was dryed, and
> pretty
> much flat permanantly...not flat in texture of course as processed
> cork, but
> flat enough to make a nice back drop. I used a band saw to cut it.
> Robert Paul Hudson
> http://www.aquabotanic.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 03:52:40 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: Tom Barr's CO2 Reactors
> Thomas Barr said :
> > I am stopping the production of the CO2 units.
> > I will still sell what I have left(about 15 or so) and do a small
> > production
> > here and there but it will not be through Spectrum desgin plastics
> > any
> > longer.
> Thos of you that are familiar with Tom, his knowledge, his product,
> don't need to hear this -- but some of you newer folks should know
> this:
> It will be a shame if these units aren't available.   They work (100%
> CO2 absorbtion!), the price is right, and they get the reactor out of
> your tank (in exchange for a very small powehead).
> > If folks want to email me directly they can for
> > more
> > info. As far as shipping over seas etc, it can take awhile first
> off,
> > then
> > it can cost a bit also. I did ship to Finland but the pump is not
> set
> > up for
> > European electrical power consumption so you may need to get a unit
> > without
> > a pump if you use something other than US plugs.
> >  I should have some ready by Monday of next week(Feb 4th). If folks
> > want
> > larger models for tanks in the 90 to 2000 gallon range I can make
> > custom
> > units also. A unit for a 150 gallon would run about 55$ or so
> > including
> > shipping. I have sump model designs etc as well.
> > I am a full time student with a heavy load so I cannot get to the
> > shop
> > often. It will take some time to complete some units.
> > The units will be guaranteed for a few years no matter what I do
> and there ain't much that could become broken -- no moving parts
> except
> the pump rotor/impeller.
> > except for
> > the pumps which are guaranteed by Rio/Taam. I can fix or replace
> > parts as
> > needed for any of these so you need not worry about that part.
> > Doesn't take
> > me long to fix anything on them.
> > 
> We don't want the demand for Tom's reactors to put a time-stress on
> his
> schooolwork, but folks, when is the last time someone offered to sell
> something under those conditions -- a warranty beyond 1 year, much
> less
> more vommon limits of 30 or 90 days?
> Scott H.
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 04:42:25 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: screw-in CF's
>  paprikash at boo_net asked if anyone considered using "
> >the relatively new screw-in integrated electronic compact
> > ballast lights . . . 
> I presume you are referring to the coiled tubes that are mounted on a
> base containing an electronic ballast and which screws into a
> standard
> light bulb socket.   In my own case, I did consider them when setting
> up a couple of tanks about a year or so ago.  At that time I was
> dissuaded by the following:
> - - the wattages available (that I could find) were generally less
> than
> 16 watts -- When I added up the wattage and figured the cost, there
> was
> no price advantage over AH Supply's PC kits
> - - the color temps weren't published and there was no info I could
> find
> regarding the phosphors and spectra of these bulbs -- I assumed they
> used essentially high quality "normal" phosphor coatings (aka
> halophosphors), not the rare-earth tri-phosphor coatings used in PCs
> since the manufacturers apparently designed the CFs merely to replace
> incandescent bulbs for household lighting purposes, not gardening
> purposes.
> - - I suspected that the coiled shape was less efficient that the PC
> straight twin-tube shape -- half the surface of a coiled CF tube is
> facing towards the inside of the coil.
> - - The long thin shape of the PCs was easier to fit into a long low
> hood
> (which I preferred) than the shorter, more portly shape of the CFs.
> Most these might no longer be the case.  Some of them might not even
> have been true back then.  For example, I do know that much higher
> wattages are now more easily to be had and a wider range of color
> temps
> is available.  Also, some CFs do use expensive tri-phosphor coatings.
> Color temp and PAR might be an issue but if regular T8s work, why not
> these?
> Scott H.
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:40:45 -0500
> From: "Kevin Madsen" <Kevin_Madsen at hotmail_com>
> Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1576
> I have built a hood for my 135 using 5 of the 65 watt compact
> fluorescent
> floodlight fixtures available at Home Depot. I have been very happy
> with the
> colour and brightness of the lights. Much better than the 8 40 watt
> normal
> tubes I had previously.
> Now that I have installed these lights and also pressure co2 (approx
> 6-8
> bubbles/sec) I am having a problem with some light brown coloured
> algae
> mainly attached to the plants but some is attached to the substrate.
> I am
> adding a dozen florida flag fishes and also planning on blacking it
> out for
> four days, any other suggestions for removing the algae?
> Thanks
> Kevin Madsen
> > Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 02:26:10 GMT
> > From: paprikash at boo_net
> > Subject: screw-in CF's
> >
> > hi all.  I'm a part time lurker on this list - i like to think
> > i can figure my own issues out but i'm too humble to presume to
> > advise anyone else:).  anyhow, i just wanted to ask everyone in
> > general why the relatively new screw-in integrated electronic
> compact
> > ballast lights don't seem to be held in much regard, especially
> when
> > compared with power compacts. they seem to me to have quite a few
> > advantages, especially if you want to go a bit diy. i recently
> built a
> hood
> > full of these things myself and have been extremely pleased with
> the
> results
> > - - they can be had in a variety of wattages and color temperatures
> and
> > they can be fairly cheap if you do a bit of looking for the right
> place,
> > especially considering they come with their own ballasts.
> > - - wiring a hood with them is really easy,
> > - -they  can be distributed evenly in a hood, unlike a lot of
> odd-sized
> PCF's
> > - -even if you can only find some little chepo 2700K lights, i've
> found
> that the
> > light they give off is surprisingly pleasant, especially if you can
> balance it
> > with a single regular actinic tube.  it looks a lot more like
> bright warm
> > sunlight
> > than the mushy drab light you get from other warm temperature
> lights.
> >
> > anyway, this is just my opinion.  i know these bulbs have been
> mentioned
> before
> > but i just wondered if anyone considers using them
> >
> > cheers
> > elie
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 12:46:44 +0000
> From: "Tim Mortlock" <tmortlock_uk at hotmail_com>
> Subject: DIY CO2
> Hello there. New member coming out of lurk mode to ask a few
> questions. 
> First, introductions. I'm Tim and I live in the UK I've just started
> keeping 
> fish again ater keeping them for several years when I was younger.
> Got a 30" 
> tank six months ago and the bug bit me hard! I'm just finishing
> setting up a 
> four foot moderately planted tank :o)
> I've just stater using DIY CO2 on my new tank and it seems to be
> working a 
> treat. I can see streams of oxygen bubbles coming from the leaves of
> my 
> Amazon Swords!
> I use the normal six cups of water, one of sugar and a teaspoon of
> yeast in 
> a soda bottle to produce the CO2. To prolong contact with the water,
> I use 
> an upside down plastic cup hidden behind driftwood. This has a pin
> hole in 
> the top to let the gas escape if too much builds up.
> To agitate the water I have the powerhead section of an old Fluval 2
> filter 
> cirlulating water across the CO2/water interface.
> My first question would be to ask if it is a good idea to put this
> powerhead 
> on the same timer as the lights? That way, when the lights went off
> and 
> photosynthesis stopped, not as much CO2 would be desolved, reducing
> the pH 
> swing.
> My second question is about lighting. The way I figure it, if I set
> the 
> lighting timers to six hours on, six hours off, there will be two,
> smaller 
> pH swings rather than one larger one. Is this correct? Also, will
> only 
> having a six hour lighting period allow the plants to "get into the
> swing" 
> of their photosynthesis before going dark again?
> Any help, comments, opinions or constructive flames are greatfully
> received.
> Thanks
> Tim
> APRA #66
> www.antiproduct.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:18:43 -0600
> From: krombhol at teclink_net (Paul Krombholz)
> Subject: Re: Echinodorus 'compacta'
> I would like to put in a good word for E parviflorus, not the Tropica
> variety which looks sort of diseased to me, but the regular variety.
> Unlike the large amazon swords, it seems to accomodate its size a lot
> better to the size of the tank.  The large amazons jam their leaves
> against
> the top of the aquarium, where they soon die, but parviflorus just
> seems to
> produce smaller plants.  I have had very pretty arrangements of
> parviflorus
> in a 10 gallon tank.
> Paul Krombholz in cloudy, warm, central Mississippi, expecting an
> arctic
> front to come through Thursday with lots of rain.  
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:23:13 EST
> From: ROlesen104 at aol_com
> Subject: Heteranthera z. aka "Stargrass"
> Neil,
> This plant grows both horizontally and vertically, but I'll bet
> there's more 
> light in your newer tank, right? More light seems to encourage the
> typical 
> horizontal or substrate spread, IME. H. zosterifolia can make a nice
> looking 
> plant grouping, but like many hedges outside, it will tend to produce
> a shape 
> with a hollow, leafless center full of debris eventually. When pruned
> to 
> reveal this - it isn't a pretty picture and I haven't found a good
> solution 
> for this as yet. 
> Careful trimming to the closest node when shaping, along with the
> selective 
> use of complete, substrate level amputation here and there to thin
> clumps, 
> has produced the nicest looking groups for me. I had a really
> impressive 
> mountain of it once, but drastic, poorly thought out and executed
> pruning 
> while in a fit of creative stupidity one night put an end to it. Like
> most 
> men with a bad haircut, I ended up buzzing it.
> Hetera z. often has long, white roots it sends down into the
> substrate as it 
> grows taller and these tend to anchor and further pull the plant into
> a more 
> horizontal growth pattern. Come to think of it, I've never seen this
> plant 
> growing straight up like Limno., Cabomba or even Hygro. Anyway, these
> roots 
> can be annoying. 
> "Stargrass" also has a tendency to get black tips, perhaps because it
> is a 
> tender plant and easily bruised or maybe because I keep Flagfish with
> mine. 
> There again this could be some chemical deficiency, as others have
> proposed - 
> but I suspect a mechanical cause as mine look too much like tissue
> trauma 
> when examined under magnification.
> Emerged, it will produce an abundance of pale violet flowers that
> scatter 
> seed everywhere. I have some outside and little Hetera z. sprouts
> spring up 
> everywhere - along with glosso, Hemianthus micranthemoides,
> Alternanthera and 
> Hygro. sp. to name a few. 
> I don't want to get all preachy or make anyone gag, but we probably
> all need 
> to be really careful with the plants we now have at least some
> measure of 
> control over - since I'll bet several of the newer, less widely known
> and 
> distributed species (like Eusteralis) could easily escape
> domestication and 
> become established in several areas of the country. 
> When that happens, we can be sure that restrictive legislation we
> have far 
> less control over, as in California, will be proposed - perhaps
> enacted, and 
> this will do none of us much good. I say this as much to myself as
> anyone, 
> for I am as guilty or innocent as the next person of cultivating
> these things.
> I hate to even bring this up, since this is how rumors get started,
> but...
> Bob Olesen
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:59:28 EST
> From: Paulio629 at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1576
> In a message dated 1/30/02 2:57:28 AM Central Standard Time, 
> Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com writes:
> > Amano's or the Ghost shrimp? Ghost at most places in the 20-30cent
> range.
> > Amano's? Nowhere I know of in the US unless your friends with an
> importer in
> > LA etc. I've picked up lots of 100 at cost(I gave a number of free
> plants)
> > from LFS's @ 36-60 cent each.
> > 
> > It pays to support the LFS :-) They are willing to work with you.
> Large
> > chains etc will work deals like this. Even if you pay a tad more
> for
> > something, they take care of most customers. 75$ for 100 is a fair
> price out
> > here in the LA area and some plant trade. 20$ for the Ghost shrimps
> for 100.
> > That clear things up?
> > 
> > Regards, 
> > 
> Thanks Tom.
> - --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
> multipart/alternative
>   text/html
> - ---
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:24:34 -0600
> From: Boulet Stephen-CSB046 <Stephen.Boulet at motorola_com>
> Subject: RE: eusteralis stellata
> Just wanted to say "great picture". I like how you combine the
> different colors in the tank.
> - -- Stephen
> > Just thought I would throw out some of my observations
> > on stellata, now that that I have had it for about 3
> > months.
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 06:48:55 -0800 (PST)
> From: Scott <zerelli at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: Eclipse 12 (was Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1573)
> There is plenty of light so long as you don't choose
> plants with a high light requirement. Crypts, anubias,
> java fern should all do fine in there. I keep water
> sprite in mine too.
> Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:44:52 -0600
> From: "Dakota" <dakota6 at FLASH_NET>
> Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1573
> Hello.. A friend of mine got a new Eclipse System 12
> Gallon Aquarium 
> and was
> wanting to fill it with live plants. I told her she
> didnt have enough 
> light
> to have live plants but she is adamant..So, could
> someone please advise 
> if
> 1. Is there a remedy for the poor lighting such as a
> replacement CF or 
> ???
> 2. What slow growing plants do people use in this type
> of tank ? 3. 
> Would
> Laterite or some such help even with such low lighting
> ? Thanks in 
> advance
> for all help !
> The people on this list have helped me immensely in
> the past and once 
> again
> I need all your expert advice :O)
> Charles Anderton
> Ft. Worth, Texas
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 10:52:09 -0500
> From: "Doug Karpa-Wilson" <dkarpawi at indiana_edu>
> Subject: Cardinals and Neons
> For what it's worth:
> My understanding is that until recently cardinals were almost
> entirely wild
> caught, while neons were farm bred.  Now there are some farms in
> Florida and
> Tennesee that breed cardinals, too.  I'm sure there afolks who can
> correct
> me on this.
> My impression is that these little tetras (and rummynosed tetras) are
> vey
> susceptible to stress, and can get creamed by low oxygen when they're
> stressed.  One very experienced person suggested that acclimating the
> fish
> in water that's had some airstrones in it for a while to oxygenate it
> before
> hand can really help with this.
> Another observations is that I have a hell of a time getting fish
> home from
> the store, but virtually never lose tetras when I move them from one
> tank to
> another.  This suggests to me that they may be very susceptible to
> osmotic
> shock.
> In other words, I don't really know why they're so sensititve, but
> these are
> some other possiblilities.
> Doug
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:05:45 -0700
> From: jmarella at attbi_com
> Subject: Let's Talk About Enemas...lol
> My response time these days is lagging, but the idea about using 
> disposable enemas as a PO4 source made me chuckle and also intrigued 
> me. So, there I am the other day in the enema aisle at the grocery 
> store inspecting every brand of enema that I could find for info 
> about the ingredients. The pharmacy booth was directly across from 
> where I stood and needless to say, the pharmacist looked a bit 
> puzzled about why I was spending so much time reading enema boxes, 
> lol. I suspect I didn't look too bright just then. I came up with 
> nothing in the way of ingredients. Couldn't find that listed on any 
> of the packages.
> Surely I'm not the only person who pondered the idea of giving my 
> tank an enema. Has anyone else discovered what enemas are usually 
> made of or tried this?
> Assuming an enema would be useful, the only question remaining would 
> be where to insert the nozzle.
> JoAnn
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:47:01 -0500
> From: wbennett at jt_cc.va.us
> Subject: Satisfaction?
> I am considering ordering from aquariumplant.com. Has anybody here
> ordered from them? Was it satisfactory? They offer what looks like a
> terrific deal: a varienty of 24 different plants for #29.95, shipping
> FREE! Love to hear about anyone's experience with them. Thanks.
> Bill
> ________________
> Think naught a trifle, though it small appear;  small sands the
> mountain, moments make the year, and trifles life.  --Edward Young
> - --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
> multipart/mixed
>   text/html
> - ---
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:08:39 -0800
> From: "Rachel Sandage" <rachelsor at hotmail_com>
> Subject: Re: Adjusting pH w/SeaChem products
> Naomi,
> I am interested in what makes your water that way too - my
> sister-in-law 
> lives in SF and her water is just too weird. Here in Oregon our water
> is 
> pretty standard stuff, although now that the rains have come both KH
> and GH 
> have dropped to 1.5 to 2.
> Anyway, I wanted to let you know that many fish experts believe that
> it is 
> the GH, not the pH, that affects the fish. pH is usually given in
> books, I 
> know, but that may be because *usually* a low pH = low hardness, or
> maybe 
> it's that pH test kits are more widely distributed than GH test kits,
> or 
> maybe it's that the people who say GH is more important than pH are
> just 
> wrong.
> If those people are right, then your nice low GH should open up your
> fish 
> options.
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:14:55 -0600
> From: "Tom Wood" <tomwood2 at flash_net>
> Subject: RE: Cardinals and Neons
> Doug wrote:
> "My understanding is that until recently cardinals were almost
> entirely wild
> caught, while neons were farm bred.  Now there are some farms in
> Florida and
> Tennesee that breed cardinals, too."
> It is my understanding that the holding tanks for the wild caught
> cardinals
> were infected with a disease last summer, and that it took some time
> to work
> itself out. Since there is a defined "fishing season" for wild caught
> cardinals, hopefully the holding tanks can be flushed clean between
> seasons.
> Not so for captive bred neons, which results in the present condition
> where
> just about every neon will eventually die from neon fish disease
> because
> they won't ever flush the entire system, so to speak. I lost several
> batches
> of cardinals to the mysterious disease early last summer, but have
> had
> minimal losses since then. Overall, I think cardinals are the more
> hardy
> fish over neons in the long run, even though you will almost always
> hear the
> reverse.
> Tom Wood
> Austin, Texas, ya'll
> (I missed the color of water in a bucket debate (see the archives)
> but I did
> get in one shot in the creation vs evolution debate, was a combatant
> in the
> CO2 dump debate, and innocently started the name game that lead to
> the
> fighter pilot debate. My apologies to the ListMom, I'll try to be
> good, even
> though it's against my nature.)
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:28:38 -0800
> From: "Roxanne Bittman" <rbittman at dfg_ca.gov>
> Subject: Stargrass
> I really like this plant; it certainly is a "weed" in the sense that
> it takes little attention to grow it and it can take over the entire
> tank in a hurry, if left untrimmed.  I like to use it two ways:  One
> way is to grow it up into a corner; you can make it grow "up" by
> trimming off the side shoots and leaving the taller branches.  It
> makes a nice wall when supported by the two sides of the corner. 
> It's proabably too weak-stemmed to do this away from the wall. 
> Secondly, I like to grow little bushes of it behind wood, etc.  This
> requires lots of trimming each week or two, but I enjoy trimming.  If
> you don't like maintenance, i.e. trimming plants, don't mess with the
> Heteranthera!
> Roxanne Bittman
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 12:38:24 EST
> From: Piabinha at aol_com
> Subject: OT: Limia vitatta wanted
> hi all,
> i got a bag of these fish at my fish club recently and it was
> supposed to be a pair, but it turns out they are two males.  if
> anyone is keeping this species, i'd appreciate getting some females,
> specially if you are in the nyc area.  thanks.
> tsuh yang
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 12:38:25 EST
> From: Piabinha at aol_com
> Subject: OT: Limia vitatta wanted
> hi all,
> i got a bag of these fish at my fish club recently and it was
> supposed to be a pair, but it turns out they are two males.  if
> anyone is keeping this species, i'd appreciate getting some females,
> specially if you are in the nyc area.  thanks.
> tsuh yang
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 12:40:03 -0600
> From: "Tarah Nyberg" <Tarah.Nyberg at UTSouthwestern_edu>
> Subject: Re: adjusting pH with Sea chem buffers
> Naomi, 
> I have just started using a combination of SeaChem Acid Buffer and
> baking soda to stabilize the pH in my tank @ 6.5. 
> So far using the stated ratios have worked really well. I also use
> DIY CO2, so my motivation for using the buffer was to stabilize the
> pH independant of CO2. 
> I still see a 24hr fluctuation in pH that reflects the Co2 content
> but it is only ~0.3 pH units daily.  I use RO water that I
> reconstitute (w/ Equillibrium also) and my final GH is 6.5 and KH is
> 2.5.  I have only been doing this for a month now, and with weekly
> water changes my tank still does not completely reflect the new
> buffer regiem. I expect my final GH to be ~4 and KH to be 3 when the
> tank water has been completely replaced. 
> Just my two cents, 
> Tarah
> ------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:11:05 -0800 (PST)
> From: Sarah LeGates <slegates at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Officially delurking, plus Anubias and water parameter
> questions
> Greetings all,
> Over the last year or so I've gone through the process of converting
> my tanks from ugly plastic plants to lovely real ones and I'm happy
> with the results I've seen.  I am currently running two very
> low-tech, low light, non-injected tanks (mostly due to time
> constraints).  Here's where my question starts--I've just moved from
> Oakland to SF, and from what I can gather, SF water is a little
> goofy.  My oakland water was a little goofy, too, but my I was able
> to put together a collection of plants that did reasonably well in
> it, even under my regime of benign neglect!  I have not yet had a
> chance to test the parameters of my tap water so please don't throw
> tomatoes at me when I ask the rest of my questions.
> Tank parameters are as follows:
> Tank 1--56 gallon tall tank, maybe 1.5w/gal (maybe--I use 2
> garden-variety screw-in CF bulbs and supplement with a couple of
> hours of afternoon sunlight).  I don't particularly like to fiddle,
> so I don't test my water very often so I don't know current
> parameters.  It's just straight SF tap water, with a 30% change 1x
> per week.  I supplement with 2.5 ml Flourish 2x week, and am
> currently adding about 10 drops of Kent Pro-Plant at the same time. 
> The tank has a laterite substrate with plant tabs at the roots of the
> heavy feeders, and there's about 1 cup of crushed oyster shells mixed
> in the top layer.  I don't think they are doing much to affect the pH
> or GH levels.
> Tank 2--35 gallon hex, also tall, also maybe 1.5w/gal plus sunlight. 
> No current parameters.  Supplemented with 1ml Flourish and 5 drops of
> Pro-Plant.  This tank does not have a laterite substrate, but it has
> had laterite balls and root tabs planted in the substrate at various
> times.
> Both tanks have higher fish loads, so I'm not sure the Pro-Plant is
> necessary.  I've achieved good growth rates with garden variety
> swords, dwarf sag, Vallisneria, various Cryptocorynes, Java fern,
> water sprite, Micranthemum micranthemoides, Elodea (although I've
> pulled it from my tanks), without substantial algae problems, and I
> have not yet been bitten by the "must have a new and exciting plant"
> bug; I understand the high-power tank formula (CO2, nutrients, light,
> etc--and I even understand most of the chemistry!) but at this point
> I don't feel compelled to implement it, nor do I want to add CO2 to
> my low light tanks.  I am, at least for the time being, a planted
> tank minimalist (and much too susceptible to suggestion, so please,
> please don't tell me to go out and get CO2 systems for my tanks).
> On to my questions:
> 1) can anyone give me an overview of what SF tap water is like (Naomi
> mentioned high pH and low levels of dissolved minerals--anything else
> I should know about)?  I would also like to hear about how to adjust
> pH levels with this quirky SF water.
> 2) My Anubias are not doing so well.  They were ekeing out an
> existence before the move, but now several leaves have developed
> pinprick holes and then yellowed on the barteri and there's a gaping
> hole in the nana.  Based on SF water parameters, I'm assuming that
> they are deficient in CA or MG and may possibly be suffering from the
> lower CO2 availability in this high pH water.  Or am I seeing
> symptoms of other deficiencies as well?  What can I do to salvage
> them?
> Ok, I suppose that's enough for one message.  I want to thank
> everyone on this list for providing such a wealth of timely advice
> and information and TIA for any suggestions for how to deal with SF
> water.
> Sarah LeGates
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! 
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 03:30:02 +0800
> From: " Anthony Baker" <bakera506 at earthlink_net>
> Subject: RE: DIY Surface Extractor
> Ivo wrote:
> =====
> Now, in my newer tank, the surface gunk (not Flourite !) was back
> again.
> I couldn't use my old contraption here because the filter intake is
> 1"
> diam. Instead, I got from Home Depot a fluorescent bulb shield. It's
> a 
> sort of clear plastic tube with end caps designed to protect 4'
> fluorescent 
> bulbs in harsh environments. The end caps have small apertures to
> allow the
> wires to reach into. Costs about $2.50 as far as I recall. I made a
> new 
> surface skimmer out of it by cutting it to length and attaching it
> upright 
> on the tank back wall, with the filter intake inside it. The upper
> end is 
> open and above the water level, at the lower end one of the end caps
> is in 
> place and attached to the glass with a rubber cup and screw. I cut 
> a 1/2" wide vertical slot at the top to suck the surface film in. The
> aperture in the end cap creates enough drag to lower the water level
> inside 
> the tube by 1-2", sufficient to start the skimming action. 
> ======
> Ivo et all-
> I went to my local Sears Hardware and found the bulb shield -- it was
> $2.99 
> and is ~1.6" ID polycarbonate with a very thin wall.  It reminds me
> of the 
> same kind of stuff used for cheapo gravel vacs.  The end caps are
> just as you 
> describe them.  All and all, this looks like a pretty useful item for
> a DIY-
> inclined aquarist!  Plus, 4' for 3 bucks is a pretty good deal.
> I couldn't find a little cheapy corner filter -- I used to have 5-6
> of them 
> back in high school.  Anyhow, I decided to combine the ideas of your
> DIY 
> extractor article with the description of your new one.  I ended up
> enlarging 
> the hole in the endcap to fit the 1" airlift tubing which ends in an 
> undergravel filter outlet as per your design. I made a hole in the
> upper wall 
> of the bulb protector and inserted a short length of the 1" airlift
> tubing and 
> then placed the undergravel filter outlet onto it as the extractor. 
> Then, to 
> make the "pressure valve" I used a conical washer and SS scew and 2
> nuts.  The 
> valve seat was made "sloppily" out of the screwcap from a bottle of
> ear drops 
> (the only thing I had lying around at 11:30 at night that would fit).
>  Nothing 
> is glued, but rather friction fit, so I can make modifications and 
> refinements.  
> I installed it and viola!  Seems to be working well.  The surface was
> crystal 
> clear when I left for work this morning.  The real secret is the
> valve -- I 
> tried using it without the valve at first and it didn't work at all. 
> I think 
> I might try it for a few days, and possibly modify it to use a
> corner-filter 
> box -- as it is now I have no room for a prefilter.  I can post a
> couple pics 
> of it tonight if anyone is interested.  
> Thanks again Ivo for that great article on the Krib, and for the
> follow up!

By all means, post some pics for us if you can!  I've used the Eheim
and it is one fussy little bugger -- collects debris easily and that
drastically affects its performance -- and water level changes are
nearly as bad.

Has anyone come up with one that really adjust to water level, at least
within, say, 0.5 to 1.0 inches?

BTW, FWIW, the new Hagen surface skimmer unit appears to be the same as
the one that has been marketed by TOM (Tominga Plastic
Industrial)/Oscar Enterprises.  You can view it at 


select "WHAT'S NEW and then scroll down

Scott H.

Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!