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Water change device (was Re: Turface/Profile & Flourite)
"Scott Page" <spage at jbr-env_com> wrote:
<snip>
> On another subject - I want to use something other than a bucket/hose and
> mouth-full-of-water to change water in the 120. I am considering a Python
> or similar device. I understand that one of these devices (can't remember
> which) advertised that it removed chlorine or allowed it to dissipate
> because it filled the tank by spraying the water into the tank in a fine
>stream. Anyone have info on this and its effectiveness at chlorine removal?
<snip>
I have one of these. Take a look at
http://www.petwhse.com/webstore/webstore.nsf/(id)/976A?OpenDocument
It was the best thing I bougth for the hobby in many years, since it ended
fish shock, bucket-induced back pain, and time spent changing the water.
That said, there are some drawbacks. First, I don't know how effective is
the water squirting to remove chlorine. Since the rate of water change is
so slow, and my tap water probably has chloramine as well, I just add some
AmQuel to the tank while the device is running.
Second, it only works with tap water at about 30 psi pressure. No way to
pre-treat the water.
Third, the water squirting into the tank degasses too much CO2. I made a
contraption with a long clear pipe standing horizontaly above the water and
made the water squirt inside one end of the pipe. So at the other end it
just trickles smoothly into the tank.
Fourth, the rate of change is too small to be practical in a large tank as a
120. Mine is a 46 gal and it takes about 6.5 hours to replace 50% of the
water. This is due partially to the small water flow and partially due to
the fact the water level is kept constant in the tank. This results in a
logarithic dependency of the time it takes to replace a given amount of
water, with that amount of water. Due to this logarithmic dependency it
is also not practical for large water changes, say more than 50%. On the
other hand, this is good for the fish since there is absolutely no pH shock.
And the input water can be cold, since the tank heater has plenty of time
to warm it up as it trickles into the tank.
Fifth, it uses a syphon to draw water from the tank. The syphon is constantly
driven by the input water, so therev is some bypas and some water is wasted.
The very same problem exists with the Python system though.
Despite the drawbacks, I liked the idea so much that in my future 120 I'll use
the same principle, but with a larger water flow to keep the changing time
within reasonable limits. I also will get rid of the squirt and venturi by
using a overflow standpipe in the sump and a simple hose with ball valve to
regulate the input into the sump.
Hope these ideas help,
- Ivo Busko
Baltimore, MD