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Re: Water treatments

"Amquel," "Prime," "Ammo Lock 2," et al all contain formaldehyde-like
componds that "tan" or cross-link proteins. I have demonstrated that they
kill Ostracods, Daphnia and Mosquito Larvae at normal dosage levels. [They
also kill Hydra, BTW, just like Formalin.]

The old hypo-based dechlor products that "break the chlorine ammonia bond"
release a burst of ammonium/ammonia into the water. If the pH is well below
7.5, it may not be a problem. If higher, look out, as most swimming
organisms don't like much ammonia.

These are two radically different products, and use of the wrong one can be
a disaster.

Artemia, Brine Shrimp, don't seem to mind chlorine or chloramine, in the
concentrations normally used, but do die if the pH and ammonium/ammonia are
high. Likewise, they don't seem to be hurt much by low doses of "Amquel,"

Dechloraminators are organic compounds, similar to formaldehyde, that bind
up the chlorine/ammonium so that it can gradually be used by plants and
biofilters (or removed by water changes) and dissipated slowly enough to not
kill fish.

Dechlorinators are just hyper-expensive versions of cheap photographers'
hypo (sodium thiosulfate) that grab the chlorine but instantly release any
bound ammonium into the water (if chloramine is present). [I know of
numerous fishroom wipeouts (including a couple of Betta Grand Champion
breeders) when old dechlorinator products were used after the water system
switched from chlorine to chloramine.]

As mostly a fish breeder, I don't use chloraminated water right out of the
tap for anything but maybe hatching BS. [There, the antibacterial effect may
be a plus, so I like it.]

I use two big carbon line filters in series for most water, with flow
restricted to a trickle to get long contact time. Output goes through a
swamp-cooler float valve into a plastic barrel. A tap between filters lets
me test for chlorine (chloramine reads the same) and replace the first
cartridge with the second when the chloramine starts to "punch through." The
new cartridge goes in place of the essentially-unused 2nd one every 6 months
or so.

This gives me an excellent supply of water that does not kill the infusoria
that are so useful for first foods for my baby fish. A sprig of Java moss in
a hatching container, and a drop of "Liquifry No. 1" gives me a nice swarm
of swimming infusoria in 24 hours, but water that is utterly clear of
typical bacterial clouding.

My main use for "Amquel" o/e is for shipping fish. I starve them for 24-48
hours and use a triple dose in the shipping water to absorb any residual
ammonia released en route.



> Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:26:29 -0700
> From: "Trevor Holyoak" <trevor at holyoak_com>
> Subject: Re: Water treatments
> What about Amquel would make it kill invertebrates? I've been using to it
> treat water for my sea monkeys (genetically "enhanced" brine shrimp) with no
> problems.
> Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 18:43:53 EST
> From: Billinet at aol_com
> Subject: Chloramine
> Wright,
> I use well water so I don't have to deal with chlorine/chloramine, but I have
> advised friends to use the inexpensive chlorine/chloramine eliminator to get
> rid of the chloramine - chlorine can be removed by agitation.
> Do you use the eliminator in your fish tank or do you just use the water as
> it comes out of the tap?

Wright Huntley -- 650 843-1240 -- 866 Clara Dr. Palo Alto CA 94303