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Re: Tank Construction
TED LINDER wrote:
> I am using Cadillac Plastic Acrylic Adhesive SC-125. In addition sealing
> with a silicone sealer because I can't get the acrylic edges smooth enough,
> cut with a regular saw blade. I don't think it matters if the adhesive is
> non-toxic because it evaporates and it is being covered with silicone.
Edges are easy to get smooth with a good plywood blade in a power saw.
The trick is to take a fast enough cut to never heat the plastic so it
wants to melt. Sharp, carbide-tipped blades may do that best.
Hand sawing is harder, but a full sheet of non-loading sandpaper, taped
to the bench, will allow smoothing and straightening each edge enough
for a full-contact bond.
Be advised that silicone does *not* stick well to acrylic, so the inside
seal would be *very* easy to disturb when cleaning, etc. A tight enough
fit that the acrylic adhesive is drawn in entirely by capillary action
gives the strongest leak-proof joints.
Ted's right that the "adhesive" is a 100% volatile solvent that just
melts the surfaces in contact. It all evaporates (eventually), leaving
pure acrylic in contact with the water.
Wright Huntley, Fremont CA, USA, 510 494-8679 huntley1 at home dot com
************Organizing an effort to stamp out all TLAs.****************