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Re: KillieTalk Digest V2 #436
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 17:32:37 -0400
> From: kasey57 at juno_com (Jerry F Kasey)
> Subject: Blue Gularis
>
> What is the normal incubation time for Blue Gularis eggs and which method
> (water or peat) would be best to use?
> Jerry Kasey
> Blue Ridge, VA
>
>
Hi Jerry,
I've been breeding Blue gularis for a number of years now. In all cases the
eggs are water incubated. I find that viable eggs are not usually produced
until the adults are at least 8 months old and the pH of their water is no
higher than 6.5. (All of my water contains a tspn of salt per gallon). The eggs
are collected by hand and placed in polystyrene (hard plastic) trays measuring
approx. 6" x 4" x 1.5" deep which have been spray painted black on the outside
and contain the same water in which the breeders are. The water in these trays
has been there no less than 24 hours before adding eggs and contains a trace of
acriflavin (just enough to give a pale green color). I might point out that I
use the same incubation water over and over and only place eggs from the same
breeders in that particular tray. Often, the first day or two after starting a
new tray of water many of the eggs will fungus or just turn white indicating
infertility for some reason. After that, the viability of the eggs seems to
approach 90%. Again, I do not mix eggs collected from different tanks and
breeders.
Eggs are added for approximately 5 days. Any eggs which turn white are removed
and discarded. Usually any eggs which do not go bad after three days are
viable and will hatch in just about a month at 75 degrees F. Once well
embrionated and after one or two eggs have hatched naturally I place the rest
into a small (15 ml) screw-topped test tube containing the water to which the
fry will be introduced. Filled to the top and capped, the respirating eggs will
hatch as the carbon dioxide level of the water goes up. (There is also the
possibility that hatching eggs produce some enzyme or hormone which stimulates
the others to hatch). If ready to hatch, this method works quite well and a
near 100% hatch should occur within an hour. If not, I add a very small amount
of micro worms to the brew. If that doesn't do it within a hour, you're up to
your own devices. I usually just dump the whole mess into a small tray of water
and wait for them to hatch as they will. (Don't forget that the fry will not
survive much more than an hour after hatching in the testube especially after
adding micro worms).
The fry are placed in a small tank and are fed live baby brine shrimp beginning
the next day. I also add a small amount of Java Moss. Small Red ramshorn snails
are added after about a week for cleanup duty.
In other words - water incubate.
Bob Schwiegerath
Socorro, NM