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Re: KillieTalk Digest V2 #391
Re: pH Down - My manufacturer was Wardley Watercare (green plastic bottle ) which I
purchased in a local supermarket.
Re: Muriatic Acid (Also known as 6 Normal Hydrochloric Acid) - This is half the
concentration of the stuff that chemical labs and manufacturers use. You can buy it in any
hardware store. The vapors are quite strong, so be careful with it. My water here in
Socorro, NM is quite alkaline (pH 8.3) so I typically add about 3 milliliters to 5 gallons
of water that I'm about to age before introducing to my fish (or visa versa). Even at
that, I check the pH before using it on the fish since it will occassionally rebound or
even be more acidic that I want. I have a hand held pH meter for testing my water.
I never add muratic acid to a tank containing fish since the fish might swim into hot spots
which could easily burn their gills. Give it 24 hours to stabilize before using.
KillieTalk Digest wrote:
> KillieTalk Digest Friday, September 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 391
> In this issue:
> Re: KillieTalk Digest V2 #389
> Email help!
> Re: many questions
> Vacation Care of Killies
> Re: more tips on brine shrimp
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> KillieTalk mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 07:36:49 -0400
> From: BOB WOTH <bwoth at bellsouth_net>
> Subject: Re: KillieTalk Digest V2 #389
> Taigha wrote:
> > Hi there,
> > RSchwiegerath wrote:
> > > pH Down which contains Potassium Acid Phosphate which not only will drive the pH
> > > down but is a fantastic fertilizer for getting green water (algae). I add a
> > > small amount to tanks containing very small fry. Even if the water turns to
> > > "peasoup" it doesn't seem to harm them even after I've graduated them to live
> > > baby brine shrimp.
> > What is the manufacture name of the PH Down?
> > > In order to get the pH of my water down to where I want it for breeding I now
> > > use dilute Hydrochloric Acid (Muratic Acid). But I would recommend having some
> > > "green" water around for the little guys. My mortality rate has gone to
> > > virtuall y zero.
> > What is your dilution of the Muratic Acid? I'm very interested in finding out more
> > about it. Are there any side effects? (E.g.: PH Jumps etc).
> > Thanks for the input!
> > Keep Well,
> > Chereen
> > The manufacturer of pH down is Aquarium Pharm.
> > Also, Seachem makes a good product for lowering Ph Acid buffer it is easy to use. Bob
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 08:45:10 -0400
> From: "Eller, James (J.)" <jeller at ford_com>
> Subject: Email help!
> If anyone is having problems setting up your email contact me privately at
> jeller at ford_com or je3 at aol_com. I'd be glad to help. As you can see from my
> SIG below.... PC Support is MY LIFE ;()~
> I did not post this to the NFC list but someone can cross post it there if
> they want to. I did cross post this to the KillieTalk list.
> > James Eller
> > PC Support Desk
> > GTO Automotive Safety Center
> > Ford Motor Co.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: peter.unmack at asu_edu [SMTP:peter.unmack at asu_edu]
> > Sent: Thursday, September 10, 1998 9:43 PM
> > To: nanfa at aquaria_net
> > Subject: Re: NANFA-- This is a great list - reply & suggestion
> > On Thu, 10 Sep 1998 CEFCHURCH at AOL_COM wrote:
> > > Some of us don't know how to delete headers and snip original messages
> > to
> > > reduce size of messages we reply to. And what works on some systems
> > doesn't
> > I'm not familiar with aol, but I would suggest if you look in the help
> > file it
> > will give you some leads. Most programs I have seen that automatically
> > include the original message put it in the message text window into which
> > you
> > type. Normally you just highlight it and delete it. Sounds like your's
> > may
> > be different. Usually you set these things in preferences or options if
> > you
> > can find them. :-)
> > Tootles
> > Peter Unmack
> > /-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----
> > / This is the discussion list of the North American Native Fishes
> > Association
> > / nanfa at aquaria_net. To subscribe, unsubscribe, or get help, send the word
> > / subscribe, unsubscribe, or help in the body (not subject) of an email to
> > / nanfa-request at aquaria_net.
> > / For more information about NANFA, visit our web page,
> > http://www.nanfa.org
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:51:25 EDT
> From: IceFireVS at aol_com
> Subject: Re: many questions
> In a message dated 9/11/98 5:33:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> fatherdagon at hotmail_com writes:
> << Are they afraid of bright light? Could that be
> why one jumped? I also would like to culture some live foods to prepare
> for any fry they may produce. What would be good for this species? >>
> Most killies seem to prefer either a slightly dimmer light, or plenty of plant
> cover. Also, Killies are just plain natural jumpers. A tightly fitting lid
> with NO gaps (Cover gaps with duct tape if you have to) are pretty much a
> requirement with ANY killie species, unless you want to find "fish chips" on
> your floor.
> As for feeding fry, newly hatched brine shrimp are pretty much a "standard"
> fry fare...and VERY easy to hatch. I use a 1 quart jar (The OLD style canning
> jars with the hinged lid work GREAT for this) with an airstone, water about
> 2/3 full, a tablespoon of aquarium salt, add brine shrimp eggs, flip the lid
> over the top (but do NOT "lock" it down...don't want to pinch the air line)
> put it in a warm place, and the next day, you have baby brine shrimp! To get
> them out, I turn off the airstone (I have one of those little plastic valves
> attached to the airline) and wait a few minutes (You will be able to see the
> tiny shrimpies moving around) Scoop some out with a brine shrimp net (NOT a
> regular net, as the holes are WAY too big to let you catch any with those)
> rinse 'em off, and dump 'em in with the fry, and watch the feeding frenzy
> begin! You will want to start feeding a few days after the babies have
> hatched, as they won't eat until after they have absorbed their yold sacs, but
> that gives you time to start the brine shrimp. You should hatch your eggs in
> fairly small amounts, as they lose much of their nutritional value after about
> 48 hours.
> Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
> Vicki in "Flood City" PA
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:07:57 EDT
> From: LeeH920226 at aol_com
> Subject: Vacation Care of Killies
> A while back there was some discussion about how to best provide care for
> your killifish while away for extended periods. The two extremes are either
> leave them in the care of a friend who will provide the same care that you do,
> or at the other extreme, do nothing. Since it is nearly impossible to have
> someone available who has either the time or knowledge to provide the same
> care that you do one frequently is tempted to have someone just feed the fish
> while you are gone. This is likely to be fatal since they will either feed
> them too much which is always fatal or feed them the correct amount without
> water changes, which is usually fatal. The other extreme, to do nothing, is
> closer to what I have done quite successfully. I do nothing for the larger (2
> gallon and larger) tanks. Incidentally all my tanks have active growing
> plants. For the smaller containers ( !.5 gallon shoe box type) which contain
> fry of various sizes including young adults, I do the following:
> 1) feed them live foods that will live in the water - daphnia, microworms,
> etc before you leave If you must feed brine shrimp make sure you don't feed an
> 2) provide a piece of lettuce leaf and some pond snails in each container
> plus the usual Java moss. this provides for an infusoria culture while you are
> gone. I did this last year for 3 weeks and 2 weeks at a time without losss. I
> did it again this year for 2 one week absences and just returned after two
> weeks. I have lost only one container of newly hatched Notho. vosseleri
> (actuallu one-third of the total hatch). They just disappeared. The other two
> containers of the same hatch were fine. Another lesson to be learned - don't
> put all your eggs in one basket. This was the only loss in over 60 such
> The lettuce leaf procedure works so well that I keep reminding myself that I
> should do it when I'm not away as an alternative to daily feedings and
> semi–daily water changes. I have not tried it yet.
> Lee Harper
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:45:32 -0400
> From: Frauley/Elson <fraulels at minet_ca>
> Subject: arnoldi
> Hi all,
> I've had a little success with arnoldi which I was discussing with Tom
> Grady. The subtle movement of his eyebrows made me realize that the way
> it worked for me was a little unorthodox for their group. All spawnings
> over peat gave me nothing, but they readily spawned up and down mops
> (very very few tiny eggs, often at the top of the mop) and, incubated on
> damp peat for a few months, gave me good hatches compared the number of
> eggs picked.
> I'd thought peat would be the way, but I grew desperate. Just thought
> I'd pass it on in case anyone's struggling with them too.
> - -Gary
> Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 10:58:35 +0000
> From: raywolff at juno_com (R W Wolff)
> Subject: Re: more tips on brine shrimp
> I use a very similar method as Vicki in Food city PA.
> However, my harvest method is a little different.
> After removing the air, and the eggs settle, I'll siphon the shrimp out
> with a piece of airline tubing that has a rigid piece on the end (makes
> controlling it easier) into my brine net.
> If you don't have, or can't find a brine net, use a coffee filter.
> After this you can rinse your shrimp, I don't though, and suck them up
> with an eye dropper, then drop them in your tanks, after a while you get
> a feel for how many drops (or partial drops) certain tanks need.
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> End of KillieTalk Digest V2 #391
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