Re: [Killietalk] Killietalk Digest, Vol 52, Issue 45

["Prescott Valley Eye Care, P.C." <pveyedoc at cableone_net>]

Hi Bob

I breed Gularis too, and they are decendents of your beutiful strain.

I too find Gularis really prefer and spawn better at lower temps around 
70-74 F.  Older males and females do have increased fertility and 
production.

I've always wondered what the hardness of your water is?  I know D. Ramsey 
has very soft water with very little hardness and that's probably why he can 
store damp mops of gularis without fungus, then pick the mop after a month 
and hatch 'em.  I've found that I can't replicate his technique in my water 
with TDS of 180 ppm and hardness of 120 ppm, ph of 7.0-7.5.

Thanks!
Brian in Prescott




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "R. Schwiegerath" <critters at sdc_org>
To: <killietalk at aka_org>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Killietalk] Killietalk Digest, Vol 52, Issue 45


> Hello All,
>
> Here we go again with Blue gularis .  Here's my "how to" for this fish -:
>
>
> BLUE GULARIS
>
> I have been breeding Blue gularis since the 1960s.  If ya' wanna'
> breedem' ; here's how I do it.  It doesn't take rocket science.  Just
> the knowledge, guidance and observation of an "old-timer."
>
> First  -  breeders (in pairs or trios)  should be at least 1 year of
> age.  2 year olds even better.  ALL OF MY WATER CONTAINS 1/2 teaspoon of
> pure (pickling) salt per gallon.
>
> Best egg production is on LARGE sunken green and/or brown sunken dacron
> mops in (minimum) 10 gallon tank.  LOW LIGHT !!!!!  Tank
> with some Java Moss, a corner box filter containing ONLY aquarium gravel
> and COVERED !!.  Once egg production becomes apparent;
> collect water from the tank into a polystyrene container (mine are 2"
> deep x 6" long x 4' wide - Spray -Painted Black on the outside) add just
> enough acriflavine (neutral) solution to impart a pale green color.
> Wait 24 hours BEFORE introducing eggs to tray !!!!!!!!!!    Depending
> upon the time of year (according to my observations) eggs will develop
> to hatching stage in anywhere from ONE MONTH (eggs collected in late 
> autumn)
> to resting eggs (collected in summer) which may not eye-up for several
> months.  Eggs which remain clear after 3 days are usually fertile. There
> is definitely a time-of-year egg production and egg development for this
> fish.  Don't mean to be crude - BUT THIS FISH SPAWNS BEST IN IT'S OWN
> PISS !  I have gotten my best egg production in my dirtiest tanks !  And
> from November through March.
>
> Once fully eyed-up, one can wait for the eggs to begin hatching upon
> their own or (better) force hatch them by placing them in "newly aged
> water" in a 15 ml test tube for about 1 hour.  Don't forget about them -
> they will suffocate !  Newly hatched fry are placed into rearing tanks
> containing some Java Moss, a layer of aquarium gravel and some floating
> (Riccia) plants.  Fry are fed live baby brine shrimp 24 hours after
> hatching.  Graduate fry to appropriate-sized tank for rearing. You'll
> have sexable fish in about 6 months.
>
> I give permission to any and all who wish to copy and or disseminate
> this information  - worldwide.
>
> I think the biggest mistakes are collecting eggs before Nov. 1 and after
> March 30,  tanks that are too warm (my breeders are at about 75F or
> less),  frequent water changes are a no-no,  collect water from
> breeders' tank and add methylene blue/acriflavin 24 hours BEFORE
> collecting and adding eggs.  Eggs collected in warmer months will rest
> until the fall.  Eggs collected from Nov. through March will eye-up and
> hatch within a month.  Again - ALL OF MY WATER CONTAINS 1/2 tspn of pure
> salt per gallon.
>
> "Tanks,"
>
> Bob Schwiegerath
> Socorro, NM
>
>
>>
>>
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