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Re: [Killietalk] Pump for recirculation system
Earl,
I'm no expert, but I can share my mistakes ...
1) "A pump for a recirculation system one that I can valve down to 15 psi
for my drip valves. The head would be about 6-7 feet."
Short version: 3 cheaper pumps (2 operating + 1 backup) is a better strategy
than 1 higher priced one...
1st the valves: Your horizontal run also comes into play here; how many
outlets?
...and you need to size your pipe accordingly...depending on the GPH, head,
"run" length & outlets sometimes 1" dia pipe is best, sometimes 3/4"
sometimes 1/2" and visa versa
..as a Very rough guide: over 600GPH =1", under = 3/4" under 300GPH =1/2"
(again a VERY rough guide)
I'm using Jehmco's KV1's I think...quality valves, precise adj. but a small
inner hole and 1/4" outlets = back pressure & clogging...However for my fry
boxes I also have a simple manifold using 1/2" PVC w/ 1/4" holes and simple
Lee's plastic valves glued in...when comparing the two types of manifold
designs: the simpler plastic valved manifold is the winner: a lot less head
press& easier replacement, easier construction(no taping), easier
maintenance, et..(but only for runs of less than 1dz outlets)
2nd the pump: I originally opted for quality & versatility, going for
Lifeguards pricey 4000HH, rated at 1000GPH and running 32 outlets @ 5ft/head
on a 32ft run of 1" pvc...this pump is rated for submerged or in line
ops...a consideration if you need external equip like UV's & fluidized bed
filters, also consider heat: submerged, a 700gph pump can raise temps a few
degree, depending on gallonage & water disturbance...
That was a $90 mistake...1stly the ceramic shaft broke in 9mo's, 2ndly it
represented a single point of failure for 30+ fish worth hundreds$$$$ ...as
a "do over" I opted for 2 cheaper 750 GPH Via Aqua's...spent $60 and used
the spare $30 for another as backup...logic being: even if the MTBF is 50%
less than the Lifeguard, the pumps cost 33% less
"2. Some kind of timed drip system that I merge with my incoming water to
add salt (or saline) at a measured amount to reach 1/2 - 1 teaspoon per
gallon"
Earl, back when I was doing reefs and adding Kalkwasser, I originally had
some fancy smancy French made "dosing pump"...but yet another "do over" and
I eventually opted for Kent Marines simpler "drip doser", cost about 20-30
bucks...still we're talking salt here, not exactly dangerous...so just
wondering; heck couldn't you make a saline solution, tap & drill a bucket
with a airline 6 plastic valve, figure your drip rate vs. system volume,
drip into your sump and the get a reasonable/approximate SG from that?
"3. Any way to merge pure DI water with the automated system. I bought a $30
automated timer and an inline heater to bring my tapwater up reasonable
conditions"
shoot, man you deleting my post? <LOL>...Shene answered this same question
from me a few weeks back (uh erh for those Pygmy sunfish that you gave me as
a matter of fact)...anyway he had a great answer/solution...
Oh and one other thing..clear tubing is yucky...I'm using black vinyl for
both my 1/4" airline, and my 1/2 thru 3/4" returns...if it's nasty I can't
see it, plus no algae
Whew! I can type fast... ;-) good luck Earl!!!
KC (enjoying the annual end of year 2 week layoff)
-----Original Message-----
From: killietalk-bounces at aka_org [mailto:killietalk-bounces at aka_org] On
Behalf Of Earl Blewett
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:10 AM
To: 'killifish discussion list'
Subject: [Killietalk] Pump for recirculation system
Dear FishFolk,
I am re-building my fishroom and have all the parts for a fully automated
flow through system. However, the Tulsa water is fairly hard 80 - 120 ppm.
For some of my fish I cut it 50% with DI water and I also like toft head on
a have salt
in my water. I keep nothos and I like the longevity it gives to bbs. I can
set things up as a semi-automated system as I have filters as well as DI and
carbon cartridges to change my tapwater into reasonable water good water.
I am looking for advice on two things:
1. A pump for a recirculation system one that I can valve down to 15 psi
for my drip valves. The head would be about 6-7 feet.
2. Some kind of timed drip system that I merge with my incoming water to
add salt (or saline) at a measured amount to reach 1/2 - 1 teaspoon per
gallon.
3. Any way to merge pure DI water with the automated system. I bought a $30
automated timer and an inline heater to bring my tapwater up reasonable
conditions.
I may end up with a re-circulating system on a 30 gallong sump that I shut
down and drain 20 gallons twice a week then manually add clean water. I have
already figured out how to do this with my existing equipment.
This would allow me to add a fluidized bed filter to the re-circulating
system. I have them on two large tanks and although it is a pain to set them
up and they can be finicky and clog, they are worth it. On a 20 gallon
brackish tank every single species I've had in the tank has spawned. This
includes bumblebee gobies, rainbowfish, mystery snails and livebearing
halfbeaks, among others.
Thanks for the advice,
Earl
-------------------------------------------------------------
Earl L. Blewett Ph.D.
Assoc. Professor of Microbiology
Dept of Biochemistry and Microbiology
Oklahoma State University - Center for Health Sciences
1111 West 17th Street
Tulsa, OK 74107
micro at earlblewett_net
Office (918) 561-8405
FAX (918) 561-8414
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