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Re: [Killietalk] Food Slurry a raging Success!
Monty,
Thanks for always sharing your experiments with us. I
like your concept, I do a similar thing with Dario
dario or the scarlet red Badis. In my situation I use
mostly javamoss and a minimum if any floating plants
as they are not they key factor I have found. I then
feed Moina, bbs, and grindleworms the first week or
so. I then begin adding greenwater, rotifers and
paramecium beginning the second week. I remove the
Dario dario after a month and in 3 months I can
harvest the fry. These fry tend to bottom dwell. In
the case of killies do you find they make better use
of the water sprite then? I ask because I have used
this setup with Chromoaphyosemion's as well with
excellent results as well. I prefer not to use non
live food because I find it is far easier to overfeed
and foul a tank. Instead of a slurry I like to term my
food as my plankton mix.
On the topic of natural breeding set ups as many
European breeders seem to rave about, has anyone tried
this for breeding Diapterons? I was discussing this
with Markus brown my fellow Diapteron fanatic and
perhaps we could see what others experiences have been
in this area? My reservation thus far have been
because of the lighting that my planted tanks get.
Will a thick layer of floating plants make the
Diapterons feel at ease? I have found them to hate
light in my experience. Would love to hear peoples
opinions and or experiences with Diapterons in natural
setups.
Dave
--- lehmann at jlab_org wrote:
> Fellow Killinuts!
>
> I would like to report on the success that
> I am having with a new food mix combined
> with a tank setup that is producing loads
> of fry without picking eggs, etc.
>
> Starting with a ten gallon tank I put one
> box filter weighed with marbles and filled
> with pillow floss (very cheap in bulk from
> discount stores). I add two Jiffy 7 peat
> pellets, put a clump of Java moss on the
> bottom of the tank and add a layer of floating
> plants (in some cases Giant Salvinia) or
> watersprite. After setting this tank up with
> water from my storage tank that is less than
> 30ppm hardness, I wait one day, then add one
> young pair of Aphyosemions.
> I feed them a slurry of the following components:
> 1.Frozen Hikari brand bloodworms, thawed and
> rinsed.
> 2.Freshly hatched baby brine shrimp
> 3.Small amount of Golden pearls fish food (from
> Kens fish supply online) OR
> 4. Small amount of very small crumbles (from
> Tim Addis) And
> 5. Small amount of freeze dried Cyclops-eeze
>
> I use a turkey baster to feed this slurry mix
> to all of my tanks once a day. (note: I stir
> the mixture before filling the baster).
>
> I change 70% of the water in this tank after
> five days to keep it from going too acid due
> to the peat from the peat pellets. Then I
> switch
> to 70% water changes every ten days.
>
> After a couple of weeks in this tank I have
> to put a nylon stocking over the plastic
> strainer
> on the end of the hose I use to drain the
> tanks.
> The nylon stocking is necessary to keep from
> sucking up the many fry that have started to
> appear!
>
> Every tank that I have setup this way has
> produced
> large amounts of fry in the tank. It has worked
> very well with A. australe (both red orange and
> chocolate) A. cognatum, A. louessense RPC 33,
> A. ahli Kribi, A. elberti Ntui and Matapit,
> Fp. gard Mamfense, A marginatum Bifoun and
> Bengui
> and a number of others! It is very efficient at
> producing large numbers of healthy fry and
> great
> looking adults.
> I experimented to come up with this setup as I
> live
> a hundred mile round trip from the nearest
> reliable source of black worms (too far now).
> This
> diet feeds fry even when you don't see them!
>
> Try this out, it works!
>
> Regards,
>
> Monty Lehmann
>
>
>
>
>
> Join the AKA at
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