RE: [Killietalk] florescent lighting question

["Kray, Edd" <Edd_Kray at rf.doe.gov>]

One thing I have found from experience is that these $7.99 wonders have
poor quality ballasts that produce 1/2 the light of a good quality
($20-30) fluorescents. Also they tend to burnout the bulbs MUCH more
quickly. In the higher cost units with better ballasts my bulbs last 2
to 4x longer. I have slowly switched to the better quality fixtures when
my old cheapies have given up the ghost.

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:cgraseck at optonline_net] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 7:16 AM
To: 'killifish discussion list'
Subject: RE: [Killietalk] florescent lighting question



"I'm just a retired EE (specializing in 
modern optics). :-)"

OK Wright here's an EE question for you (nothing to do with optics
though). 

 I'm in the process (slow Process) of building a basement fishroom.  I
found a 48" shop light that I'm thinking of lighting my racks with.  The
room is small and I'm using 48" wire shelving to support my tanks
(mostly 10 gallons, two per shelf) The shop light is designed for two 38
Watt T8 bulbs.  The ballast is an instant on electric type.  I'm
thinking of using one of these shop lights per shelf as they are very
cheep $7.99 at Home Depot.  The problem is that two 38 Watt bulbs
produce more light than I need.  As you would expect this shop light
will not run with one bulb removed.  It will however, run with one bulb
turned so that it does not ignite.

My thought process goes as follows.  Running one 15 Watt bulb per tank
(two per shelf) with the magnetic ballasts typical of aquarium hoods is
going to cost more in electricity than running one 38 Watt bulb on an
electric ballast.  

Now for the question.  If I run a two lamp shop light with only one lamp
ignited does the nonignighted bulb still draw current?


Everyone's thoughts welcome,

Chris
Rye NY


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