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AW: Fry flow through system (was:EVERYONE, another nut is born!!...)
Very nice system, David.
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: owner-killietalk at aka_org [mailto:owner-killietalk at aka_org]Im
> Auftrag von David and Jennifer Snell
> Gesendet: Montag, 19. August 2002 04:37
> An: KillieTalk at aka_org
> Betreff: Fry flow through system (was:EVERYONE, another nut is
> Adam Rychlik
> I too have a 10 by 10 fishroom. I built a fry flow through system last
> year and posted the below email to KillieTalk. I hope it gives you some
> I currently maintain the fry flow through system described below as well
> as two
> other flow through systems: a 15 x 2.5Gal system and a 10 x 10Gal
> Fry Flow Through System
> I started building this particular system this summer (2001), working on
> it on-and-off as time permitted. It was finished and put into operation
> in late November. This system is part my fishroom, which is a very small
> 10 x 10 room. It's really my wife's laundry room, which I've slowly
> taken over and converted into the Fishroom. This system is above my
> washer and dryer. It's suspended from the ceiling and supported by the
> This particular system can hold up to (16) 1.5-gal Rubbermaid shoeboxes
> & (12) 3-cup Glad containers. The sump is a 20Gal high tank. The water
> is circulated from the sump using a Rio 2100 pump, through the supply
> line, and back into the sump. My pump pushes a head of about 6ft, which
> gives me a supply line flow-rate of about 100GHP. From the supply line,
> I have individual valves that I use to control the drip rate of the
> water into each tank. The drain system is 1 1/4" PVC pipe for the
> shoeboxes and 1/2" PVC pipe for the 3-cup containers. The drain water
> flows back into the sump. The supply line also has an in-line 25 Watt UV
> sterilizer, which is run about 4 hours per day.
> Supply Line/Drip Valve
> Off the main supply line I've inserted 1/2" PVC Tees for each tank. At
> the end of each tee is a 1/2" PVC to Drip valve adapter. An Antelco
> Vari-Flow valve controls water to each tank. Antelco
> (http://www.antelco.com) is the manufacturer of the valves you see for
> sale by Jehmco, Rain Drip, Pets Warehouse, TFP, etc. The valves I have
> used are the Vari-Flow .18" barb x 10/32 thread valves. The barbed end
> works well with standard airline tubing. The valves can plug up, but
> they are easy to clean, usually by opening and closing the valve, or by
> opening the valve and inserting a straightened-out paper clip into the
> I have not yet measured the flow rates, but for the 3-cup containers, I
> use a slow to very-slow drip rate. For the 1.5-gal tanks, I use a
> moderate to fast drip rate.
> I contacted Antelco this summer and found a local wholesaler in the
> Washington DC area. Through a friend, we were able to setup a
> commercial/wholesale account and purchase the valves for $0.60 each in
> packages of 50. The adapters cost about $0.30 each in packages of 25.
> To save money, you could tap the PVC pipe directly with a 10/32 tap, but
> I didn't want to chance any leaking.
> Bulkhead Fittings
> Each tank has a bulkhead fitting, which is actually an agricultural
> spray fitting. These particular fittings are 1/2" barb to 11/16 UN
> thread fittings. The 1.5-gal tanks use an elbow fitting, and the 3-cup
> containers use a straight fitting. The threaded portion of the fittings
> fits easily through a 3/4" hole. The 1.5-gal tanks are drilled on the
> side, about 2.5" above the bottom on the containers. The 3-cup tanks
> are drilled on the bottom. The barbed end of the fitting fits into 1/2
> inch PVC pipe or drips into the 1 1/4" PVC trough.
> The fittings are manufactured by Olsen Tools and Plastic
> (http://www.olsentool.com/olsen.htm). Through a friend, I was able to
> coordinate a wholesale order for the Chesapeake Area Killifish Club.
> All totaled, we ordered 2600 fittings, nuts, caps, and various
> adapters. The elbow bulkhead I'm using is their part number NTL12 and
> the straight bulkhead is their part number 3812D. The cost was about 30
> cents for the bulkhead fitting and nut.
> I used the swivel nut (Olsen part 8027) and inserted a piece of
> embroidery mesh to create an overflow screen. I have also attached some
> foam to some of the nuts to create small foam filters for the 3-cup
> containers and for some of the 1.5-gal tanks. I also use washers on
> both sides of the bulkhead fitting. The washers are basic garden hose
> washer found at Sears/Home Depot, I paid $1 for 10 or 12 washers.
> Water volume
> In the 1.5-gal tanks with the bulkhead hole 2.5" above the bottom, the
> water level is constant at about 1 gallon. The 3-cup containers are
> drilled on the bottom, so the water volume varies from approx 1.5 cups
> to 2 cups depending on the foam filter I use. I can adjust the water
> volume one of two ways. Since the bulkhead is threaded and the foam
> filter has a threaded nut, I can simple turn the filter until it reaches
> the desired height. On some foam filters in place of the swivel nut I
> have used a different threaded adapter that is about 2-3 times as tall
> as the swivel nut, which allows me to raise the filter and the water
> level more.
> The overflow screens and foam filters can plug up. So for each tank, I
> marked on the outside of the container to note the water line. If I see
> the water line above the marked line, then I know I need to clean the
> sponge filter or the overflow screen.
> Water Changes
> Water charges are very easy. I simply turn a ˝" ball valves to pump
> water out of the sump. And with another ˝" ball valve pump water into
> the sump.
> Sump Filtration
> The 20 Gal tank has several large
> sponge filters. At some point in the future, I plan to setup some type
> of small trickle filter with bio-balls or lava rock.
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