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Re Breeding E. annulatus

> From: Wright Huntley <jwwiii at pacbell_net>
> Subject: Re: Re Breeding E. annulatus (was KillieTalk Digest V3 #1960)
> 
> I find their best conditioning food is still newly-hatched bbs. They like
> surface foods, so worms may end up where they can't reach or don't look for
> them. Bbs go for the surface light, so get eaten pretty thouroughly. Vinegar
> eels are better than microworms, too. Same reason.
Then daphnias, as a substitute or diet supplement, should work pretty
much the same... yes?

> ANN eggs seem unusually sensitive to being handled. I have never done well
> when collecting from mops and trying to hatch in Petri dishes, like many
> other Epis or Aphyos. I would ship Water Sprite with eggs in the plants, or
> (better) ship a whole mop.
Thanks for the tip, lest I get a chance to buy ann eggs... I would
purchase both the eggs and mop!  BTW, are the ann eggs obvious (like gar
or notho) to the naked eye or do we need a magnifier to see them?

> The babies are practically microscopic, themselves, when hatched. They can
> be spotted, with a good magnifier, hanging in the meniscus around the top
> edge of the water, sometimes.
I knew these buggers were small and actually used a 20x scope to try
spot an egg or fry... no luck here.

> As stated above, shipping mops or plants may be the best way to do it.
> Between the two, I would incline toward mops, as the plants will consume
> oxygen if they are in the dark.
Wright, I've started to set up another planted tank (peat/river sand
substrate, Vallisneria americana (natans)... similar to the 'torta',
Salvinia natans, low light ferns and Pistia stratiotes) that's reserved
for anns and waiting for it to stabilize.  The ann is really on my wish
list (yes, I understand it'll be a difficult species) but I'd really
like to try again.  If you (or know someone who successfully breeds
ann), I'd be very happy to purchase some when shipping permits.  TIA.

> I used Wayland Lee's method, or modifications, thereof. I did better in 10G
> tanks or 5G tanks, while he used smaller "Critter-Keepers" or shoeboxes. I
> used a bare tank, fibrous peat on the bottom, with Java moss, too; foam
> filter with gentle bubbles running in it; floating Water Sprite and
> Duckweed. Remove juveniles as soon as they show stipes, for they eat babies,
> even if parents don't. Water should be soft enough to let pH be pretty acid
> (6.5 or below?), as that provides some antibacterial action that the eggs
> seem to need.
<snip>
This is good info... I'm putting 'em down to hard copy.

> Catch with eye-dropper or white spoon. [The kind used for Chinese soup is
> perfect.]
These spoons I have plenty... now lemme go sneak one out from the
kitchen ;o)

Regards,
Ronnie Lee
Singapore
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