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Chris Wetmore wrote:
> >All comments welcome. >
> I use the same water for the eggs as I use for the parents. Its a good idea
> to add salt to the fry water. I have had batches crash after a couple of
> weeks - the fry are small and its hard to see the velvet.
WAL readily mop spawn, so pick eggs, rinse in weak acriflavin, and then in
fresh clean tap water. Place on freshly boiled, rinsed, and cooled peat. Look
in 3 weeks and hatch when most have solid gold rings around the dark eye
(usually 3-6 weeks depending on dampness and temp.).
Don't hatch in tank water, or use tank peat. That's where the "Velvet" cysts
and free swimmers are. Use fresh RO or DI for the most reliable hatch and then
gradually bring tds up to final keeping levels, which might include 1 tsp salt
This process assures lots of hatching pressure (osmotic), to help the babies
break out, and then lower stress (osmotic pressure) for growout. WAL will
usually hatch OK in harder or salty water, but RO or DI water gives a slight
edge, I think. Not critical, but works for me.
If you got the peat from others, and it may have been exposed to "velvet,"
then it is probably not a bad idea to tint the hatch water pale green with a
weak 50:50 methylene blue/acriflavin solution. 2 or 3 50% water changes
(increases?) in the first day, with treated tap, will raise the tds and get
rid of the dyes before they do any real harm.
Take a sprig of Java moss from a tank known to be essentially velvet-free
(1tsp salt/G) and add to the new babies, along with one drop of Liquifry #1.
The infusoria bloom will probably give enough rotifers and paramecia to eat up
any remaining velvet flagellates, anyway. They, in turn, will jump-start
growth of the fish.
Wright Huntley -- 650 856-4245 -- 879 Clara Dr. Palo Alto CA 94303
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- RE: walkeri
- From: "Chris Wetmore" <killienut at hotmail_com>