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Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1312

To: KillieTalk at aka_org
Subject: Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1312
From: richard baumann <xalister at yahoo_com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:46:30 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <200106200450.AAA11737 at actwin_com>

--- KillieTalk Digest <Owner-KillieTalk at AKA_Org>
wrote:
> 
> KillieTalk Digest      Wednesday, June 20 2001     
> Volume 03 : Number 1312
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	Re: I wish you guys would realize the problem
> 	RE: ph crash!
> 	Tank Covers
> 	Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1311
> 	Re: Tank Covers
> 	Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1311
> 	Re: JAKA vs DKG
> 	West Nile Virus
> 	MIME (was Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1311)
> 	RE: suicidal STR
> 	Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1311-- duplicate messages
> 	RE: suicidal STR
> 	RE: West Nile Virus
> 	RE: suicidal STR
> 	Re: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1311-- duplicate messages
> 	Re: Valid discussions here?
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on
> unsubscribing from the
> KillieTalk mailing list and on how to retrieve back
> issues.
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:18:51 -0700
> From: Wright Huntley <huntley1 at home_com>
> Subject: Re: I wish you guys would realize the
> problem
> 
> Charles & Sue Harrison wrote:
> > 
> > I wish you guys would realize the problem you
> cause for those of us interested in reading the list
> when you post and or reply to a HTML / MIME
> formatted message. Is there no way to remove the
> HTML??
> 
> 
> Bill and Bob and a few others simply won't do it,
> apparently. Their ISP/mail
> services certainly are capable of plain text
> postings.
> 
> The only ones I know who are *forced* to use MIME
> multipart alternative or
> HTML are those who made the mistake of using AOL
> 6.x. I'm told there is no
> way to post in plain text, and the digests that bump
> them force them to get
> a different e-mail account, usually "hotmail" (which
> is exactly what MS
> wants them to do). :-)
> 
> Wright
> 
> - -- 
> Wright Huntley, Fremont CA, USA, 510 494-8679 
> huntley1 at home_com
> 
>         "Congress has not unlimited powers to
> provide
> for the general welfare but only those specifically
> enumerated."
>                                       --Thomas
> Jefferson
> 
>                 Did you try the quiz at: 
> 
>           http://www.self-gov.org/index.html ?
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to
> unsubscribe
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:52:23 -0400
> From: "-RJ-" <TranquilityBase at NetZero_Net>
> Subject: RE: ph crash!
> 
> Hi Jim,
> 
> You probably have soft water as do I. The pH will
> remain relatively stable
> until the buffer runs out and then crash fast. You
> could add chemicals such
> as sodium bicarbonate or one of the target type
> products. You could also do
> water changes more often. I advise against using
> dolomite or crushed coral
> as the pH and hardness tends to go up rather than
> down over time and this is
> not necessarily a good thing.
> 
> I have similar water conditions, I removed peat moss
> from all of my tanks
> and I can now go MUCH longer without a crash. I can
> also recommend that you
> add Giant Japanese pond snails to your tanks when
> the pH starts to go down
> they become inactive and you will know you have a
> problem before the fish
> die. Apple snails will also serve this purpose but
> rather than becoming
> inactive they just die. This could get costly. Red
> rams horn snails are not
> stressed until the fish die and nothing seems to
> bother Malaysian live
> bearing snails.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> 
> - -RJ-
> 
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-killietalk at aka_org
> [mailto:owner-killietalk at aka_org]On
> Behalf Of LandRover47 at aol_com
> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 11:45 PM
> To: killietalk at aka_org
> Subject: ph crash!
> 
> 
>   I know I`ve seen this on the list before. While
> doing water changes to get
> ready for vacation I`ve had a large ph crash. I use
> a mix of rain water and
> my tap water that is treated with AMQUEL.  I was
> changing about 50% in each
> tank. Most tanks are 2 1/2 gal. with either a foam
> filter or a box filter
> with floss and lava rock. The water mix is right
> aroung 7.0 ph.  Don`t know
> what my hardness is. Any help will be greatly 
> recieved.   Jim Randall
> aka#08169,<ps my tap is around 8.0ph to start with>
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to
> unsubscribe
> 
> 
> 
> NetZero Platinum
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> - ---------------
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> unsubscribe
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 17:37:54 -0400
> From: George &melanie Caruso <caraway at erienet_net>
> Subject: Tank Covers
> 
> I can't believe there are so many problems with fish
> jumping out of
> tanks. When I set up a tank with a pair of fish or a
> tank with fry The
> first thing I make sure of is that I have a cover
> for the tank. Thats
> before the fish are added! For 5 gal and 10 gal
> tanks I make my covers
> from the plastic or acrylic sheets that you can buy
> at any Lowes or Home
> Depot. You know the stuff that is used for
> decorative flourescent light
> covers. It comes in several shades. Just use the
> plain stuff and not
> anything fancy.It is not very expensive per sheet
> and you can make
> several covers from one sheet. For my 2 1/2 gal
> tanks I use the plastic
> rug grid that you can get at any craft store. (I
> guess the yarn is
> weaved into the plastic grid) I cut the grid a
> little larger than the
> tank top, Then I use the vinyl white door trim you
> can find also at
> Lowes or Home Depot. It is a flat channel formed
> strip about 1/2" wide
> and comes in 8 ft. lengths. Cut the vinyl trim to
> fit the size of the
> plastic grid and hot glue it together. In both types
> of covers I cut a
> small hole to allow for the air line. Nothing else
> is needed. Both types
> are very inexpensive and well worth the little time
> it takes just to
> keep the fish in the tanks where they belong. Have
> fun.
>      George

Hello fish nuts,
I have a question. I recently bought a TDS meter. I've
never used one before, and now that I have one I'm
getting some wild readings. My fry tanks (small 1
gallon) sore up to 800 or more ppm! Why? I know salt
additions account for some of that, but what are the
other factors that effect this reading? Also I get
different readings in all my tanks. How can I stablize
the TDS in all my tanks in my fish room at the same
level? A little info. on this subject would be a nice
string I think. Thanks guys. Tyrone, Didn't you write
something about TDS meters a while back? Thanks boys
and girls.
> 
=== message truncated ===


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