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Re: Horse Trough Valve Assy.

Kim Rogers or Steve Hatfield wrote:
> Wright
> What did you use for the plastic ring? 

It was a polyethylene washer I had lying around. Soft but stiff, you could
cut a chunk out of an old "Tupperware" container and do the same thing. Just
make it a very tight fit on the PVC pipe, so it takes quite a hard push to
set or reset it.

> Is that some kind of quick disconnect
> on the top??

Yeah. You have to screw the assembly into the female hose fitting on top of
the valve, but (if unclamped) you need the fill-hose pressure to be downward
to resist the lift of the float. If all joints for the "U" are glued,
there's no way to unscrew them for maintenance. I just used a fitting called
a "union" there, so the two halves can be easily taken apart. Then any part
can be replaced or reworked as needed.

You can see that I tried to keep the down pull of the hose centered on or
near the float assembly, so it doesn't try to twist too much as it shuts
off. If the base of the "U" was long enough that the union wasn't needed
(i.e., the down leg clears the end of the valve shell to unscrew it), the
whole thing tilts pretty badly when the hose is pulling down on it off
center and the float lifts.

I didn't like the clamps that came with it, and when doing dozens of tanks,
one doesn't really want to fiddle with clamps anyway. Therefore, I tried to
make it a compact, stable hanging assembly, that moves around easily. [Don't
even *think* about screwing the hose directly into the top, without a secure
set of clamps, BTW.]



> > To see it a little better, try:
> >
> >
> >
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=972804&a=12174054&p=44225727&Sequence=0&res=high

Wright Huntley, Fremont CA, USA, 510 494-8679  wright at killi dot net


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