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Re: Re: Aqarium stores in Oregon

Hello Barry and all,
	Well water is quite often held in a reductive state. The 
problems seldom are obvious. Iron is often the only cation (metal 
ion). If there are rust colored drip lines in porcelain sinks and 
other water outlets in the house, there may be iron present. This ion 
may be the only "Hard Water" ion present in your water. Buffering 
your water with lime and washing soda is the industrial way to do the 
job. Measuring the pH is critical. Without buffering you are "Back to 
nature" depending on frequent water changes to keep deep drops in pH.
	Most of us will think you lucky in not having to remove 
chlorine from the tap water.
Industrially, crushed oyster shell is likely the best way to go since 
it is less expensive and the fines are not as much a problem. As 
usual, 55 gallon plastic drums with an outside power filter will 
treat enough water in three days time to change 30 to 40 five and ten 
gallon tanks. But, watch the pH. If you don't have a pH meter, I 
purchased several when Hanna had their sale and I have a few left.

	My long term experience has been not to treat changing water 
anymore than absolutely necessary. The best water to use is that 
which one has most of. It's just that without buffering, the pH can 
drop quickly. A good handy pH meter is probably better than setting 
up a treatment facility.

Speaking Chemically that is . . .

Regards,
Charles Harrison


>Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2000 11:12:11 -0800
>From: Barry Cooper <bjc3 at cornell_edu>
>
>I have just done some testing of the water here, which is from a well. It
>is 90 ppm conductivity. Using a hardness kit I had (from Lamotte) I measure
>0 hardness. I hope the kit has gone off (it is old) as I find it hard to
>believe that it could have a hardness of 0. I did a alkalinity assay as
>well and got a reading of only 88 ppm, expressed as CaCO3. These results
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